T@B 400 Entry Door Lock Adjustment

JEB

I have a T@B 400 that I have owned for all of one week.  I am having some difficulty with the entry door lock.  Initially, I found that the door would not completely latch and I could actually pull it open even though it was locked.  When I inspected the lock, I found that the top striker bolt was very loose.  The latch bolt appears to be deploying normally and the bottom striker bolt is tight.  I was able to adjust the top striker bolt by hand and now the door seems to latch more fully (although there is some play remaining when I pull the handle while locked that causes the door to open about 1/2”) but the top striker bolt is still loose.  I’m thinking there must be a nut inside the locking mechanism to snug the striker bolt that I can get to only by disassembling the locking mechanism.  Has anyone done this?  Is it difficult?  It’s below freezing here and I’d rather not attempt the fix if there’s risk I’ll screw it up.  Thanks for your assistance.

Verna

Check both of the bolts that latch the door—they stick out of the mechanism. My bottom bolt tends to screw or unscrew itself. This causes a “catch”. Per Marvin, put some Locktite on the screw to make it stay in place. I still haven’t remembered to get Locklite, so I’ve been using fingernail polish which works for a few weeks. 

JEB

Verna said:

Check both of the bolts that latch the door—they stick out of the mechanism. My bottom bolt tends to screw or unscrew itself. This causes a “catch”. Per Marvin, put some Locktite on the screw to make it stay in place. I still haven’t remembered to get Locklite, so I’ve been using fingernail polish which works for a few weeks. 

Ok.  Thanks, Verna.  On mine, it's the top striker bolt that seems to be the loose one.  The lower one below the latch is tight.  So I guess there's no nut inside the mechanism to tighten down and secure the bolt.  Loctite would seem the only solution, then.  

BigGrover

I have had to tinker with both the bolts and the sriker plate on ours. Also had to open it up and lube the mechanism as my latch bolt was actually sticking and not fully engaging.  Finally got it right I hope.  Got some blue loctite for the bolts.

BigGrover

PS, the mechanism has a lot of plastic parts in it.  I would love to find a better aftermarket option.

JEB

BigGrover said:

I have had to tinker with both the bolts and the sriker plate on ours. Also had to open it up and lube the mechanism as my latch bolt was actually sticking and not fully engaging.  Finally got it right I hope.  Got some blue loctite for the bolts.

Thanks.  I think I’m heading in the same direction.  Backing out the top striker bolt helped but it’s still pretty hard to latch. If it doesn’t loosen up on its own I’ll probably have to move the striker plate out a little.  I hear you on the plastic.  I’m concerned with the top tab that serves as the inside handle breaking off with use. 

JEB

Before I start applying Loctite to the loose upper striker bolt, what is the proper adjustment/alignment for the bolts?  Should the striker bolts be making contact with the upper and lower channels in the strike plate or should the heads float freely and not make contact?  If it’s the latter and they aren’t supposed to make contact, what purpose do the striker bolts serve?  The latch bolt I get.  But the purpose of the striker bolts eludes me. Thanks. 

BigGrover

I think they are supposed to free float.  We might need to contact tech @ Nucamp.  I thought they were to prevent folks from slipping the lock open by sliding a jimmy tool but another forum member stated he thought they were there ti stabilize the door during travel because the trailer walls flex.

JEB

Contacting NuCamp is probably a good idea.  I have a third theory that might support the free float you suggest.  Doing more research I have seen elsewhere these bolts referred to as “guide bolts.”  That suggests they might be there to help the installer align the doors properly.  If either bolt makes contact, it could signal that the door has become misaligned in the frame and needs to be adjusted.  The stabilizer theory is interesting but a little disturbing.  I have owned two trailers before this one and neither had these bolts on the door. Just the latch bolt and a deadbolt.  

jpb0001

I have a similar problem and have posted about it elsewhere (http://tabforum.nucamprv.com/#/discussion/8463/tab-400-door-lock-problem) 
 
Regarding lock replacement,  does not seem to be standard RV type lock that you can simply buy online or from Camping World (standard: latch extends outward from inside the door whereas the TAB 400 latch extends outward from the rear surface of the door)-- looks like a special lock will be required.  Anyone have any experience in replacing the TAB 400 door lock?

warren207

On our way back from camping this weekend we stopped to have lunch which was in the refrigerator. The door would not open 😱. Seems that the top bolt worked its way out so the head of the bolt was behind the door jam. We tried to figure out how to get into the camper. The only solution we came up with was to remove the front window. This means cutting open the plastic window enough to get our hand inside to unlock the locks and remove the window. We decided to attempt this when we got home (another 3hours). Picked up lunch at a fast food restaurant and headed home. When we parked the unit we decided to give it a try again. The door opened. Seems that the bolt worked its way all the way out of the lock. NUCAMP HAS GOT TO FIND A BETTER DOOR LOCK AND RECALL ALL OLD LOCKS. 

JEB

warren207 said:

On our way back from camping this weekend we stopped to have lunch which was in the refrigerator. The door would not open 😱. Seems that the top bolt worked its way out so the head of the bolt was behind the door jam. We tried to figure out how to get into the camper. The only solution we came up with was to remove the front window. This means cutting open the plastic window enough to get our hand inside to unlock the locks and remove the window. We decided to attempt this when we got home (another 3hours). Picked up lunch at a fast food restaurant and headed home. When we parked the unit we decided to give it a try again. The door opened. Seems that the bolt worked its way all the way out of the lock. NUCAMP HAS GOT TO FIND A BETTER DOOR LOCK AND RECALL ALL OLD LOCKS. 

Wow. Sorry to hear that.  If you ever get locked out again, you’re probably better off seeing if you can find a kid to shimmy into the rear bay and push the bed up from the bottom and get into the cabin that way.  That’s how the dealers frequently do it if they get locked out by a jammed door.  

Tundra57

Pull out the two wood screws in the door frame by the lock plate replace them with long threaded screws into the lock plate- it's more secure.

NomadPilgrim

I've had loads of problems with this. I had them monkey with it at the factory, strike plate not matching and bottom bolt working out. I have to install an entire replacement unit that I got from the factory earlier but tried to make the original one work. Super frustrating.

Sierra

We have just discoverd the same problem. Fortunately, I remembered the old "slide through the back" trick. We had the back empty from storage and I'm small so slipped right in.  @Tundra57 , Did the longer screws work long term? Or haven't you had a chance to try it out yet?

Tundra57 said:

Pull out the two wood screws in the door frame by the lock plate replace them with long threaded screws into the lock plate- it's more secure.

falcon1970

@Tundra57
Could you post some photos pointing out the screws you reference.  NuCamp sent me the repair kit they claimed would fix the problem but there were no instructions with it.  The parts they sent didn't make much sense so I never installed the repair kit.  

DenisP

After reading of others having lock issues with their 2018 400s, I ordered a repair kit. The kit consisted of longer screws and washers to shim out the striker plate. The tight quarters and a life long history of dropping/losing key components in tight spaces, I decided to make a one piece shim out of stainless sheet metal I had on hand. I used the striker as a template and installed the shim and striker with the longer screws. After test fitting, I secured the screws with blue locktite. 

The mod was completed about year ago and I have camped 60 nights or so with it since and no issues. The door lock closes and locks without play. 

Tundra57

The original screws here were just wood screws abd they do nothing. I took them out and replaced them with threaded screws which thread intvthe lock assembly and secure the lock assembly at the side too. So then you have the screws in two sides. I think the screws were M6 by 30mm hut ill see if i can find my original write up. After replacing the screws as in the nucamp kit and these side screws i have had no problens since.

Tundra57

Update the screws are M6 x 1.0mm pitch 25mm (1 inch) long.

No idea what the wood screws did, they just passed right through the lock into the post along side it

gspdx

Hey @Tundra57 when you are saying wood screws are you talking about the screws that are into the door jam from the door opening rather than screws that inside the camper itself?  

Taking the screen door out is easy and allows fast access to the whole assembly.  Three screws on each side of the screen door removes the whole assembly.

Tundra57

@gspdx Yes the ones in the door frame. I also took out the screen door frame to get at the screws inside the camper too. In my case the metal cover for the cables accross the floor was cutting into the shore power wires. I had to insulate it before putting everything back. Looked like a fire hazard to me. 

CampsiteGal

new comment 2023 - I have a 2022 Tab 400 and my door started to be able to be pulled open partially from the locked state.  I tried to length the latch bolts to see if that might help but found the door locked me out! Fortunately I had my keys in my pocket instead of hanging from a hook inside.  I was able to open the door and shorten the bolt latch. Today I took it to Apache Camping Center here in Everett, WA where I bought the tab used in July.  The fixed the latch by SHORTENING or screwing in the latch bolts and using "lock tight". Now the door shuts very tight and no long can be pulled open.  Nice job Apache service center! They also waived the service charge since I had purchased my used Tab there a few months ago used. If anyone has a similar problem try this solution.