I have the same issue on a new 400. This is something they have repaired before. After discussion w/ the factory, I plan to fix it myself. I will isolate the area with painters tape, then push into the gaps a structural adhesive ( there a many on the market, and LePage glue makes small tubes). After applying the adhesive I will push all back into place and set a 2x2 support with wedges to apply a bit pressure while the adhesive cures. I’ll leave it for a few days and.... Bob’s your Uncle.
Looking at your pic; I think you should carefully pry the trim away from the ceiling panels a bit to see if the ceiling panels are well glued to the structure. If not, push some adhesive into any gaps when you repair it.
My 2018 320U has the same problem. Just glueing it back didn’t work. The problem with mine is that the strip of molding was cut too long and it wants to buckle away from the seam it covers.
I’m still under warranty so I plan on letting the dealer fix it.
Actually, I've decided to fix it myself rather than drag it back to the dealer for such a minor issue.
I plan on pulling the whole strip off the ceiling, trimming a little bit off the end, dry fitting it to make sure it's the proper length, and then re-gluing it back on top of the seam it's hiding.
In my experience with putting screws into the ceiling for holding shelf supports or cargo net brackets, there was always a metal beam in the ceiling behind the seam locations. So, if you wanted to anchor the seam with 3/4 inch metal screws by first drilling a small hole into the ceiling beam, that would be an option too. The distance between my seams were a multiple of 8 inches apart, like the aluminum beams inside the ceiling. Brass might be a better color match than stainless.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
In my experience with putting screws into the ceiling for holding shelf supports or cargo net brackets, there was always a metal beam in the ceiling behind the seam locations. So, if you wanted to anchor the seam with 3/4 inch metal screws by first drilling a small hole into the ceiling beam, that would be an option too. The distance between my seams were a multiple of 8 inches apart, like the aluminum beams inside the ceiling. Brass might be a better color match than stainless.
BrianZ - good thinking. I'm planning on using Liquid Nails first and if that doesn't work then go the brass screw route.
I had the same problem with my new 2018 320S. Took it back to the dealer who shipped it back to the factory. They replaced the entire ceiling at no charge to me.
Comments
I can tell they use a pneumatic pin nailer, but I don’t know whether they use glue or not. The “tech” will know.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Looking at your pic; I think you should carefully pry the trim away from the ceiling panels a bit to see if the ceiling panels are well glued to the structure. If not, push some adhesive into any gaps when you repair it.
St Catharines, ON
I’m still under warranty so I plan on letting the dealer fix it.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods