I think I may have ruined my batteries!!! when I got home last weekend from my camping trip I hooked up to my 30 amp outlet as I always do and turned on the fantastic fan as it was muggy and hot while unpacking-I turned the fridge off as I knew I wasn't going to be using for at least a month-i'm pretty sure I checked to make sure the electric was working by checking battery-which was showing at 100% I locked up but left the fan on-nothing else was on I even put the step up-Tv n radio were off-but still blue light-minimal draw-alde was turned off-I had turned it off at the campground before leaving. I had not used the cool cat at all-not on. Everything worked fine at campground even used the microwave-I did have to just use cord without surge protector as I couldn't find key to bicicle lock I use to lock to outside receptacle-of course I found it a few days after getting back
So I did not check on it all week-just forgot-busy-work etc-never had a problem before but on Sunday when I went to open up n chick the battery was reading all the way down-checked surge protector-couldn't see the power light green lit up-unhooked and rehooked a couple of times n finally got power to go to green and stay-but inside battery still only goes to 1\3 also tried hooking n unhooking chord at trailer also tried chord direct to outlet unless the surge protector was bad with same result-I believe there is power at receptacle and the surge protector is functional.--we did have bad rainstorm one day earlier in the week-why I didn't think to check after I can't tell you-just always in a hurry to get inside after work at night. I think there may have been a power surge during the rainstorm that made the surge protector go off then the house batteries ran down-but why did my solar not provide enough power to run the fan?? we had several sunny days last week-my other thought was that the power chord could be bad-it has always worked but you could never see a red light like you are supposed to to indicate it is on--I have a t2b 400 just purchased last year-it is a learning curve
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My NOV build 2019 TAB came with two 6v Harris AGM batteries for a total of 224 amp-hours. Harris tells me that their AGM batteries have an 80% depth of discharge. Discharging deeper than that will not necessarily ruin your batteries but it will likely decrease their overall life span--especially if you deep discharge many times. A one-time deep discharge probably hasn't done any serious damage to the batteries. If you cannot now recharge the battery or get power to appliances or outlets, I agree with checking various circuit breakers. There are more than a couple and there is also one under the bed near the inboard side of the battery. It is an insidious little device. There is a push-button right on top (accessible to anything under the bed) which will trip the connection from the battery. To reset it you close the red lever on the side which will have swung out when the top button was pushed.
I would first look in the converter (the fuse and circuit breaker panel—mine is under the closet door—a brown box lid) for the 12V fuse to see if it is blown.
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Are you gaining any charge since this morning?
Also when I went in n pushed the battery button-at first it went to 2\3 full then settled back to 1\3 and stayed there-no flicking down to zero-it is so overcast here-but looks sunny now-of course she is partially under a tree-maybe some trickle from solar??
I guess maybe I should name her?
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/115020#Comment_115020
I tried to remove the battery cover to install a temperature sensor and stopped after 30min deciding it wasn’t worth it. You need to remove parts of the bed support in order to gain access to
the black cover and detach the cover vent hose from the sidewall of the trailer. Then awkwardly remove everything watching the angles.
They designed it with the mindset of an engineer excited to get it under the bed but not concerned about how it would be serviced down the road. Just like Ford, GM, etc.
There are more than a couple of places where they didn't really think things through.
You shouldn't have to remove the bed support to remove the battery cover. Mine is a 2x4 stud (a really rough stud) that forms an "L" just aft of the battery case--it doesn't go over the battery case. Does yours go over? The batteries are set in a cutout in the 1/2" flooring. There are several wires in a split loom anchored to the floor with cable brackets that hide the bottom screws of the battery case. There are a couple of screws on the inboard side of the case and about four across the forward top of the case. You do need to remove the hose clamp holding the vent tube to the case. Also, If you unscrew the strain reliefs holding the battery cables to the case the whole case will rotate up and to the right. The power and temperature wires will fit through that strain relief hole right next to the positive battery cable. Note that the fuse for the Victron Battery monitor is rather close to the positive battery connection ring. If that fuse ever blows we'll have to go through this whole exercise to check/replace it. I wish Victron had mounted that inline fuse closer to the shunt end of that line.
Glad to hear you got it all sorted out.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods