I have the laser heat monitoring device to check my wheel bearings but how hot is “hot”? If they get too hot, besides letting them cool down, then what? Does that mean you have to grease your bearings before moving? I’m afraid one day I’ll get a hot reading in the middle of a trip and have no idea what to do.
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90% of heat induced failures in hubs comes from hot brakes, not bearings. Keep in mind that the metal parts of a bearing set would be perfectly happy and function just fine at temperatures that would sear the skin off your hand. The. Problem (and answer to your question) lies in the boiling point of the grease within the hub. Once that happens, the pressure causes the wheel seal to fail and quickly empty the hub of its lubricant. I have seen that many times.
What to do with a hot hub?
1. Take a break. Get off the road and let the hub cool down for 15 minutes or so.
2. Dial back your brake controller. That's probably where the heat originates...not the bearings.
3. Check behind the wheel to see if you can see grease around the brake drum that has escaped the hub. (It will probably be obvious, as in, a sloppy ring of grease thrown off the drum covering the back of the tire, the frame, the wheel etc.)
If the hub cools down quickly, there's no grease-ring on the back and the wheel feels tight when pushing/pulling on the top of the tire, you can try to move along cautiously for a bit. After a few miles, check it again.
When wheel bearings fail mechanically (something actually breaks inside the bearing) it happens rapidly and catastrophically, almost always resulting in what's called a "spun bearing" where the bearing race itself starts to spin against the axle. That generates heat very quickly (within a mile or less) up to the melting point of metal with lots of smoke and noise. Thankfully, that seldom happens. The usual scenario is you are coming down Wolf Creek Pass with your foot on the brake. The brakes heat up the grease to the point that it loses viscosity, boils and blows the wheel seal. Once the grease escapes, things mechanical go south quickly.
OR:
You have a brake "dragging"...as in, the adjustment is too tight or a brake shoe is "stuck" and doesn't retract away from the drum when the brakes are released. Different scenario, same result.
The answer to your question lies in the boiling point of the grease. If you can comfortably lay your hand on the hub/wheel face. You're fine. I check my hubs every time I go out. Drive a few miles, pull over and feel the hubs. If they pass the "touch" test, check them each time you pull in for fuel. It's also common (on my trailer at least) for one side to be warmer than the other. As long as they aren't wildly different, they're probably fine.
Tapered (wheel) bearings are rugged and can take a lot of abuse. What they can't stand for long is a loss of grease. Do the "feel" test, watch for thrown grease and when in doubt, back off on the brake controller a bit...
WilliamA
2017 T@G XL
Can generally be found around west-central Wisconsin.
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
Unless you see/smell bearing lube, give the wheels a rest and then move on stopping after a while to see if things are pointing towards a problem. You'll know when there is trouble brewing...you'll feel like you need to pull your hand away to keep it from getting burned.... get your sensor out and measure that!
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner