Ruined Two Lug Nuts, What Size Replacement?

jcfaber1 said:

I would still use an anti-seize lubricant on the nuts.

I could be mistaken, but my understanding is one shouldn't lubricate threads where a nut is to be torqued to a specified setting.

Hatbox, most auto service manuals will show a torque spec for wheel lugs, but I don't think I've ever used my torque-wrench on lug nuts.

Tight enough, but not too tight.

The rule about 'tightening lug nuts gradually' applies especially with the nice cast aluminum or "mag" wheels on our Tabs. ie: You should tighten opposite lugs, gradually, in a criss-cross pattern. 

Also be sure not to over tighten. But, I think the over-tightening caution applies mostly to disk brakes, where you could warp the disk if you over-tighten the lugs. Our Tabs have drum brakes, which aren't so susceptible.

If you aren't comfortable judging the torque by hand, you could get the feel of it by borrowing a torque wrench from Autozone (they loan tools).

Or you could pick up a 1/2"-drive torque-wrench at Sears, with a 6" extension, and the appropriate socket. :-)

They recommend that you periodically make sure your lug nuts (or bolts) are tight. 

If you don't trust your dealer to have done it, and you're unsure about operating a torque wrench, it might be smart if you took the Tab to your favorite mechanic and had them do it for you, just to be sure, and to show you how.

Sears sells torque wrenches, their inexpensive $22 model will do for this job, here:
http://www.sears.com/tools-wrenches-torque-wrenches-sets&Craftsman/b-1214364374?filter=Brand

You'll also need the socket that fits the lugs, and the socket extension, because the lugs are a bit recessed into the wheels.

Lugs are tightened gradually, in a criss-cross pattern, to distribute the tightening pressure evenly.

Here's a little info on it:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6613/torque-wrench-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force/

hatbox said:

Hmmm...I perhaps misunderstood which are to be tightened periodically according to the manual?  What do you use to tighten the lugs?  The manual states "it is important to maintain proper wheel mounting torque on your lug nuts" on page 3.  It says tighten the lug nuts in stages...so many ft./lb...
Exactly what are they talking about?  It says to check lug nut torque before first use, and its doubtful my dealer did that, so naturally I panicked and envisioned wheels flying off as I travelled down the road.  Perhaps you could explain?  (I'm looking forward to the day they publish a "t@b for dummies owners manual."  I appreciate your help.

What is the correct torque for the lug nuts on a 2006 (Dutchmen/Thor) T@B? I haven't been able to find that information. Mike's post about the process to change a tire/flat was really helpful. I wouldn't have thought to lower the front as much as possible before lifting the T@B. When the instructions mention using the wheel jacks, does that mean using the stabilizers or do T@Bs come with jacks and I've not found where mine is/are yet? Where would it/they be if not the stabilizers that drop down from the body?

Sadly ours is still at the shop getting a new converter (faulty but we suspected it could be when we bought it), so we haven't had a chance to play with it much more except go through it in the drive way, clean it, update light bulbs with LED and install a new battery. We can't wait to start weekend shake down camps before bigger trips!

T@Buhura:

The '06 had two options for wheels, steel or alloy.  This included the installed wheels and the spare.   The torque specifications were different for the two wheels.  the alloy wheels require 80 ft lbs while the steel requires 65 ft lbs.  There is a faq on the wheels in the files section of the yahoo group.  

The '06 brochure had pictures of both wheel types on the T@B (I think).  The steel wheels are shown on the left and the aluminum wheels are the middle picture.  

To make matters more cloudy, the T@B could have had aluminum wheels (an upgrade) on the trailer, and the spare was a steel wheel.  If this is the case, they actually provided a second set of lug nuts for each type of wheel (that had a different bolt profile).   On the spare,the alloy wheels had raised circles on the rim (in between the wheel mounting holes) while the steel wheels did not.  If you have steels spare, they provided a separate spherical set of bolts to attach the spare to the axle.  The third image is from the original manual for my '06, and the last picture shows the raised circles on the rim of the spare (the one on the left) vs the steel rim spare.

Clear as mud right?  You asked, not me.  

For what it's worth, I torque my wheels (I have the aluminum rim in the second picture) to 80 ft lbs and pray that I don't need to use the spare (only happened once for one day) since it is the steel rim (and I don't have the spherical bolts that were in theory provided when the trailer was purchased).  

Hope that helps.