Ruined Two Lug Nuts, What Size Replacement?

Sgtjohn

I ruined a couple of lug nuts on the 2015 T@B and wonder if anyone knows the thread cut of the nuts?  The chrome cover came loose when I was removing them and I had a heck of a time getting them loose.  I ended up tapping a 3/4 socket on the nuts and removing them but the nuts wedged in the socket and I had to use a punch to remove them.  Hence I messed up two lug nuts....  Anyone know the size?  I don't think I want the ones with the tin chrome-looking caps, I think I'd goof them up again.

jcfaber1

Ours is a 2007 and is a European size. If you take a usable one to Autozone they have a guage and can tell you.

Sgtjohn

Thanks, that's what I'll do.  I've found that there are stainless steel lug nuts that look quite like the ones on the T@B.

jcfaber1

I would still use an anti-seize lubricant on the nuts.

Mercator

jcfaber1 said:

I would still use an anti-seize lubricant on the nuts.

I could be mistaken, but my understanding is one shouldn't lubricate threads where a nut is to be torqued to a specified setting.

Michigan_Mike

From the owner's manual:

Tire Sizes – all tires are 5 lug on 4.5”

Rascal / 4x7 and 5x7 Joey / 4-Wide / 5-Wide / RT

175/80D13

1360# / 50 psi (we recommend not filling it to that level)

4x8 / 5x8 / 5x10 / 6x10 / 6-Wide / 6-Wide Sport / 6x10 RT / T@B

205/75D14

1760# / 50 psi (we recommend not filling it to that level) *Whitewall Tires – 1532#/35psi

Rough Rider

235/65R15

1820# / 50 psi

It is important to maintain proper wheel mounting torque on your lug nuts. When possible, use a torque wrench to prevent loose

wheels and broken studs. Start all nuts by hand to prevent cross threading. Tighten the lug nuts in stages. First, tighten to 20-25 ft.

/lb., then to 50-60 ft. /lb., and finally to 85-90 ft. /lb.

Check lug nut torque before the first use. Check periodically thereafter. White and Black Rims use 13/16” lug nuts Black plastic caps

over white rim lugs are removed by pulling straight off. Aluminum rims can use ¾” lug nuts, whether or not it is on the trailer or on

the mount.

How to Change a Flat

First, get your trailer into a safe area where you have the space to work on it freely. Now, you are ready to begin:

• Loosen the lugs

• Drop the Nose of the trailer by cranking the wheel jack all the way DOWN

• Flip out and Extend the Jacks as long as they can go

• Crank the wheel jack all of the way UP

• Remove the Lugs and the Tires – Replace with the spare

• Repeat the above steps in reverse

• Torque the lugs – YOU ARE READY TO GO! Axle 

Sgtjohn

Well, I took one of the capped T@B lug nuts to Autozone and they gave me the wrong size-1/2.
So I'll return tomorrow and advise.  Grrrrrrrr!  Once I obtain the correct size, I'm going to order some stainless steel nuts.

Sgtjohn

I called Ed K and he is sending 5 lug nuts however, the guy at Autozone gave me left handed threads vs right handed.  The size is 1/2 X20 lug nuts on my Al-Ko Axle.

Sgtjohn

I also bought 10 chrome lug nuts on EBay for $16 inc shipping.  I find that the T@B lug nuts "rattle" because they are capped lug nuts vs a solid chunk of steel.  And I'm going o get an extension on my torque wrench so I'll have enough room to exert leverage torquing the lug nuts as per the manual.

mickietucs

I'm trying to find locking lug nuts and my dealer checked with Scott Hubble - he said the lug nuts are Dexter 20 thread, 1/2" lug nuts --- however still having no luck finding the locking kind. Does anyone have that type and if so where did you get them? Michele

Sgtjohn

Chrome Open End Locking Lug Kit 1/2" Threads | 4 Lugs 1 Key | Wheel Locks

( 331422986928 )  Ebay.

This is for four lugs and you'd have two locking nuts on each wheel.  I couldn't even get them off if I didn't have key!

hatbox

Just picked up my max s Sofitel last week, and find that I need a torque wrench to periodically tighten my lug nuts, according to manual.   They are evidently 3/4 inch.  Does anyone have a recommendation on what wrench I should purchase?  AutoZone fellow was a bit clueless as they did not have a 3/4...  any guidance would be greatly appreciated as torque wrenches and their attachments are Greek to me.

"Hatbox" 2015 max s Sofitel, tv 2013 subaru outback

ChanW

Hatbox, most auto service manuals will show a torque spec for wheel lugs, but I don't think I've ever used my torque-wrench on lug nuts.

Tight enough, but not too tight.

The rule about 'tightening lug nuts gradually' applies especially with the nice cast aluminum or "mag" wheels on our Tabs. ie: You should tighten opposite lugs, gradually, in a criss-cross pattern. 

Also be sure not to over tighten. But, I think the over-tightening caution applies mostly to disk brakes, where you could warp the disk if you over-tighten the lugs. Our Tabs have drum brakes, which aren't so susceptible.

If you aren't comfortable judging the torque by hand, you could get the feel of it by borrowing a torque wrench from Autozone (they loan tools).

Or you could pick up a 1/2"-drive torque-wrench at Sears, with a 6" extension, and the appropriate socket. :-)

hatbox

Hmmm...I perhaps misunderstood which are to be tightened periodically according to the manual?  What do you use to tighten the lugs?  The manual states "it is important to maintain proper wheel mounting torque on your lug nuts" on page 3.  It says tighten the lug nuts in stages...so many ft./lb...
Exactly what are they talking about?  It says to check lug nut torque before first use, and its doubtful my dealer did that, so naturally I panicked and envisioned wheels flying off as I travelled down the road.  Perhaps you could explain?  (I'm looking forward to the day they publish a "t@b for dummies owners manual."  I appreciate your help.

ChanW

They recommend that you periodically make sure your lug nuts (or bolts) are tight. 

If you don't trust your dealer to have done it, and you're unsure about operating a torque wrench, it might be smart if you took the Tab to your favorite mechanic and had them do it for you, just to be sure, and to show you how.

Sears sells torque wrenches, their inexpensive $22 model will do for this job, here:
http://www.sears.com/tools-wrenches-torque-wrenches-sets&Craftsman/b-1214364374?filter=Brand

You'll also need the socket that fits the lugs, and the socket extension, because the lugs are a bit recessed into the wheels.

Lugs are tightened gradually, in a criss-cross pattern, to distribute the tightening pressure evenly.

Here's a little info on it:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6613/torque-wrench-101-how-to-get-the-right-amount-of-force/

hatbox

Perfect!  Thank you so very much.  I've so much to learn, and love the forum.  I'm electing you as the author of aforementioned book.  

Sgtjohn

Harbor Freight has torque wrenches that have good reviews, I bought one for $12 after using a coupon.

Verna

hatbox said:

Just picked up my max s Sofitel last week, and find that I need a torque wrench to periodically tighten my lug nuts, according to manual.   They are evidently 3/4 inch.  Does anyone have a recommendation on what wrench I should purchase?  AutoZone fellow was a bit clueless as they did not have a 3/4...  any guidance would be greatly appreciated as torque wrenches and their attachments are Greek to me.

"Hatbox" 2015 max s Sofitel, tv 2013 subaru outback

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-711-900-AutoGrade-Lug-Wrench/dp/B004SEXO3E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1431046884&sr=8-2&keywords=lug+wrench

While I really don't know much about torque wrenches, except that my dealer was meticulous about checking and rechecking the amount of torque on my lugs nuts before I left. 

But anyway, this is the lug wrench that is actually easy for me to use.  It has two double ended sockets that includes the 3/4" socket that I needed. 

T@Buhura

hatbox said:

Hmmm...I perhaps misunderstood which are to be tightened periodically according to the manual?  What do you use to tighten the lugs?  The manual states "it is important to maintain proper wheel mounting torque on your lug nuts" on page 3.  It says tighten the lug nuts in stages...so many ft./lb...
Exactly what are they talking about?  It says to check lug nut torque before first use, and its doubtful my dealer did that, so naturally I panicked and envisioned wheels flying off as I travelled down the road.  Perhaps you could explain?  (I'm looking forward to the day they publish a "t@b for dummies owners manual."  I appreciate your help.

What is the correct torque for the lug nuts on a 2006 (Dutchmen/Thor) T@B? I haven't been able to find that information. Mike's post about the process to change a tire/flat was really helpful. I wouldn't have thought to lower the front as much as possible before lifting the T@B. When the instructions mention using the wheel jacks, does that mean using the stabilizers or do T@Bs come with jacks and I've not found where mine is/are yet? Where would it/they be if not the stabilizers that drop down from the body?

Sadly ours is still at the shop getting a new converter (faulty but we suspected it could be when we bought it), so we haven't had a chance to play with it much more except go through it in the drive way, clean it, update light bulbs with LED and install a new battery. We can't wait to start weekend shake down camps before bigger trips!

hatbox

Hey Verna, thank you.  I will pop on amazon and check that out.  

mash2

T@Buhura:

The '06 had two options for wheels, steel or alloy.  This included the installed wheels and the spare.   The torque specifications were different for the two wheels.  the alloy wheels require 80 ft lbs while the steel requires 65 ft lbs.  There is a faq on the wheels in the files section of the yahoo group.  

The '06 brochure had pictures of both wheel types on the T@B (I think).  The steel wheels are shown on the left and the aluminum wheels are the middle picture.  

To make matters more cloudy, the T@B could have had aluminum wheels (an upgrade) on the trailer, and the spare was a steel wheel.  If this is the case, they actually provided a second set of lug nuts for each type of wheel (that had a different bolt profile).   On the spare,the alloy wheels had raised circles on the rim (in between the wheel mounting holes) while the steel wheels did not.  If you have steels spare, they provided a separate spherical set of bolts to attach the spare to the axle.  The third image is from the original manual for my '06, and the last picture shows the raised circles on the rim of the spare (the one on the left) vs the steel rim spare.

Clear as mud right?  You asked, not me.  

For what it's worth, I torque my wheels (I have the aluminum rim in the second picture) to 80 ft lbs and pray that I don't need to use the spare (only happened once for one day) since it is the steel rim (and I don't have the spherical bolts that were in theory provided when the trailer was purchased).  

Hope that helps.

  

hatbox

Ugh, Calgon take me away...
Well, it's the Sofitel, so I believe everything is the upgrade.  I will have to study the wheels, and sort it all out.
Noticed today that my l.p. battery tongue housing is cracked at the bottom right where the screw is and above, so I'm reckoning they torqued the screw too tight at the dealer last week when they put it on, which is a lesson itself on the potentials of "over-Torqueage".  
Thank you all for the guidance and education....it's not easy being a gal with a complicated Hatbox.