reattaching shore power receptacle due to screws pulling out

carolinawren
carolinawren Member Posts: 3
edited March 2021 in Battery/Electrical & Solar
I have a new to me  2018 Tab 320S with a turn and pull Conntech receptacle for the 30 amp shore power cord whose screws have pulled mostly out. I am wondering if there are any suggestions for a sturdy way to re anchor this? I have seen the cross sections of the trailer's sides and know that the Azdel is thin. I am very reluctant to drill new holes, and anchors won't work due to the thickness of the foam . Thoughts? 
Thanks in advance for your help!


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Comments

  • Horigan
    Horigan Member Posts: 864
    Can you get access to the inside?  If so you can drill all the way through and use machine screws, washers, and nuts.
    Rich
    2019 T@b 400
    2025 Toyota Highlander 2.4L Turbo
    Bellingham WA
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  • carolinawren
    carolinawren Member Posts: 3
    I can, but it’s over 1 1/2” thick, and mostly foam, so seems problematic.
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  • Horigan
    Horigan Member Posts: 864
    edited March 2021
    I think using washers on the inside should be fine with the foam.  Your other options are using larger screws, or filling the hole with epoxy, or some filler compatible with the foam, then inserting the screws before the epoxy sets.
    Rich
    2019 T@b 400
    2025 Toyota Highlander 2.4L Turbo
    Bellingham WA
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  • Tabaz
    Tabaz Member Posts: 2,421
    I had the same problem.  Just buy an extra long drill bit, and using the existing screw holes, drill all the way through the wall into the cabinet area.  Then use long bolts and nuts to secure it.  Be careful the drill chuck does not contact the plastic housing when drilling.  Best to have a person on the outside of the trailer while you put the nuts on the bolts from the inside.  You'll be very happy with the results.  Mine is now rock-solid.
    2016 Outback 320
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
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  • MuttonChops
    MuttonChops Member Posts: 1,940
    Horigan said:
    Can you get access to the inside?  If so you can drill all the way through and use machine screws, washers, and nuts.

    Like @Horigan said, with the addition of using large Fender Washers to provide a larger area (pressure) for the machine screw to 'pull' against.

    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    TV: '25 Canyon AT4
    Adventures:  58   Nights:  405  Towing Miles 50,180
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  • Denny16
    Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    edited March 2021
    You can get #10 machine screws in stainless steel in 2, 2.5 and 3-inch lengths.  As previously suggested use fender small washers (large ones will hit the receptacle) and lock washers or better yet, nylock nuts.  Be sure to clean under the receptacle and apply new caulking.
    cheers
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
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  • carolinawren
    carolinawren Member Posts: 3
    Thank you all for the help, and really appreciate the details with sizing etc. 

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  • TomCanada
    TomCanada Member Posts: 294
    edited March 2021
    In addition to the fasteners, use some butyl tape between the receptacle and the exterior wall for waterproofing as well as some Geocel Pro Flex sealant around the perimeter of your receptacle, as well as ensure a fully water-proof installation.  Both the tape and the sealant are pretty tenacious and will take some of the load off your screws/bolts.  Of course I wouldn't rely on them as the *only* mechanism so definitely stick with the suggestions above as well!
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  • Tampakayaker
    Tampakayaker Member Posts: 558
    Just make sure no one trips over the power cord and you shouldn't have any further issues once repaired.

    And make sure you disconnect it before driving away!  :)
    2006 RAM 1500 4 door, 2016 T@B 320 MAX S 
    Tampa FL
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