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Lithium Charging Question (Newbie)

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  • Gomers2Gomers2 Member Posts: 61
    See what they tell you. The rewire will give you accurate account of your in/out and fix the SoC issue (the fact that it never increases). But I'm not sure the neg cables rewire will fix the auto-sync issue. It did not fix mine so I just did one manual sync and everything has been fine since. Would also be interested to know if the VicIP65 triggers the auto-sync and how it's wired to the shunt (which I assume will be just how the WFCO is wired, when wired properly). Good luck!
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  • LauraCLauraC Member Posts: 8
    @Gomers2 ... So you are able to auto sync after doing just one manual sync?  That's encouraging - and sounds like the re-wire did fix your auto-sync issue.  This has been driving me crazy.  I guess I'm a perfectionist.  If it's supposed to auto-sync, it should auto-sync.  My local dealer said they can by-pass the WFCO charger, so it sounds like they know what they're doing.  Fingers crossed.
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  • NMSunshineNMSunshine Member Posts: 27
    LauraC said:
    ... My local dealer said they can by-pass the WFCO charger, so it sounds like they know what they're doing. 
    I'm curious what "by-pass" means. If they route around the shunt you won't get an accurate charge measurement when charging from shore power. So the shunt will think it never gets fully charged. 
    2021 T@B 320ss Boondock - added Victron Smartshunt, 400w Renogy and 200w BougeRV folding solar suitcases, additional Victron 100/30 MPPT controller and eco worthy 300ah smart lifepo4 battery.
    2011 Tacoma TRD Off Road (V6, Auto), Dobinsons MRR adjustable suspension, 3in lift
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
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  • LauraCLauraC Member Posts: 8
    @NMSunshine ... the bypass comment was in response to my question about whether it's possible to replace the shore power WFCO charger with the Victron IP65.  So the bypass is around the WFCO, not the shunt.
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  • CliffsCliffs Member Posts: 4
    WooHoo! It worked! Moving the negative cable off the solar controller from the battery side of the shunt to the system side of the shunt gave me positive current readings all morning and it just synched to 100%, all on solar. None of that never happened before even on shore power. I don't know if NuCamp installed it that way or it was the dealership, but that misplaced wire caused a lot of stress the past several months on this newbie solar guy. The upside is I learned a lot.

    Thanks everyone for your assistance 
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  • LauraCLauraC Member Posts: 8
    @Cliffs - Yay!! Good for you. I'm going to print out this thread for our local dealer and hopefully they can fix the wiring issue.  (Every time I go near the Smart Shunt and look at the wiring I just can't bring myself to remove anything for fear of doing damage to myself or the camper)
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  • donmontalvodonmontalvo Member Posts: 89
    Cliffs said:
    I have the same/similar problem that Fay has. We've had our 360 since last summer and the SOC never will increase despite the battery being fully charged. I've tweaked the settings several times times with no luck. After looking into the shunt manual, I'm starting to think it's not synching because the shunt is always reading negative current no matter what. I suspect the cause perhaps is the negative side of the solar controller (arrow) is connected to the wrong side of the shunt ( it bypasses it). Does anyone know what the proper connection should be?


    Curious what the aux port wire is going to? Normally the aux port isn't used.

    The vBattery port goes to the positive busbar (provided you have one, else to the positive battery post if you have a single battery).
    Don Montalvo | Retired Veteran | Full Time Snowbird
    2024 nuCamp T@b 320S Boondock Black Canyon
    2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
    https://revkit.com/donmontalvo/ | https://donmontalvo.com
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  • LauraCLauraC Member Posts: 8
    I was told that red wire is power to the Smart Shunt.  If you disconnect it, the Smart Shunt powers off and you can plug it back in to re-set.  I never tried it as the solution to the syncing problem is in re-wiring as Cliffs said above.  A NuCamp tech confirmed that the Smart Shunt wires on my T@b 360 were incorrect.
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  • NMSunshineNMSunshine Member Posts: 27
    edited May 21
    LauraC said:
    I was told that red wire is power to the Smart Shunt.  If you disconnect it, the Smart Shunt powers off and you can plug it back in to re-set.  I never tried it as the solution to the syncing problem is in re-wiring as Cliffs said above.  
    That's correct the red wire is the positive terminal wire which powers the shunt, depending on the shunt model it also sends battery temp at the terminal to the shunt. The shunt can then share temp with the MPPT charger if they are set up on the same ve.direct bluetooth network in the Victron app, this lets the charger adjust charging based on temp if needed. You have to configure the shunt and the MPPT to "share" a ve.direct bluetooth network but its very easy. 

    re: the auto sync in the shunt I don't have any experience with that, the first time I installed my shunt I turned off all loads and manually charged my battery to full with a smart charger (the MPPT will also work if you turn off all loads and give it enough time) and then did an SOC sync to 100% in the shunt UI.

    I figured that was the best way for me to match "real" 100% to what the shunt should think 100% is.

    If auto sync works that would be cool. 
    2021 T@B 320ss Boondock - added Victron Smartshunt, 400w Renogy and 200w BougeRV folding solar suitcases, additional Victron 100/30 MPPT controller and eco worthy 300ah smart lifepo4 battery.
    2011 Tacoma TRD Off Road (V6, Auto), Dobinsons MRR adjustable suspension, 3in lift
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
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  • fay_andersonfay_anderson Member Posts: 13
    Sorry for the late response but I was offline for a bit. It looks like my controller might be wired incorrectly also. Unfortunately for my my dealer is 2 1/2 hours away. Here’s a pic of my setup.


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  • Gomers2Gomers2 Member Posts: 61
    @fay_anderson, it does appear that you have one wire in the wrong place. On the "to battery minus" side, leave the one that goes (you guessed it) to the battery minus. On a 360 the wire heading left to the passenger side would almost certainly be the battery. Move the other one to the System Minus side of the shunt.
    Unplug from shore power and turn the big red battery switch knob to Off. Remove the brass bolts,  note the washer location and be careful not to drop them. (It can be helpful to lay out a towel below the area in case you do drop something it won't roll away.) I believe the bolts are metric, maybe 17 mm? Or maybe 11/16"?  But you can use an adjustable wrench if need be. Move the wire in question, just spin the crimp ends until they sit well together on the bolt. Hand tighten firmly but not crazy tight. Turn the Battery Switch knob back on. Keep in mind this is all 12 volt, so not dangerous voltage. A 5 min job might save you a 5 hr drive. 

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  • CliffsCliffs Member Posts: 4
    edited 6:53PM
    That's what I did and it's working great. Work at a time with low or no solar too. 
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