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Adding 220w Suitcase to 2025 Tab 320 - Black Canyon/Lithium Upgrade

mp3phelanmp3phelan Member Posts: 3
in Battery/Electrical & Solar
After a couple of boondocking camping trips, we’ve discovered that the onboard 380w of solar panels aren’t enough to keep our batteries topped off up here in the Northeast. We often camp in spots with less than ideal sun and some overcast. Most of the time we are only seeing 50-60 watts coming into the system. During the “Prime” sale, I picked up an Ecoflow 220 Bifacial suitcase to supplement our existing solar. The unit I bought does not have a built-in controller. I know I need to add a controller, but I am curious about the best way to do that in our camper. The Nautilus is the obvious place, but I am concerned about adding a controller on the interior given the limited space and my very limited understanding and experience working with electricity. I’ve read almost all of the related threads, but most of the conversations deal with older setups. I am reasonably handy, but definitely intimidated by volts/amps/watts and the like :).

Can I get some recommendations on how to install a second controller? Specifically should I rewire the existing Nautilus port (based on my limited experience but a willingness to learn) or add an external controller before the Nautilus? I’d like to keep it in the Victron family if possible to make the monitoring as easy as possible. Or is there another option I should consider that I haven’t mentioned? Thank you for the help.
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Comments

  • Basil48192Basil48192 Member Posts: 401
    @mp3phelan
    Can you provide a photo of your batteries and the wires that connect to the Nautilus port?   I'm guessing that your batteries are under the passenger side bench seat and that the auxilliary port is wired directly to the battery.  If possible, I would mount the new controller in that space, using the existing wiring from the port.  It's always best to mount the controller as close as possible to the batteries.

    I added a 200W Renogy panel and a Victron 100/30 controller in the propane tub (that's where the batteries are in my 2021, 320S).  I like the Victron products and the second controller works really well with my orginal Victron.

     
     
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  • Basil48192Basil48192 Member Posts: 401
    @mp3phelan
    Sorry, I meant to include this simple wiring diagram as well.


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  • pthomas745pthomas745 Moderator Posts: 4,190
    I've never mounted any of my controllers in the camper.  I have used a basic electrical "hobby" box to place the controller into, and run the various cables in and out of that box to connect the panel and then connect to the port on the trailer.  (This setup has improved over the years).  The box with the controller can be placed inside the battery box, or just set up near the trailer.
    2017 Outback
    Towed by 2014 Touareg TDi
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  • mp3phelanmp3phelan Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for giving this some thought - here are the photos of the current setup. The one with the current solar controller is on the driver side under the bench and the batteries are found on the opposite side of the camper.

    If I understand the current configuration, the port found in the Nautilus is wired directly to the batteries. What is the assumed use case if any additional panels require a controller? A related question is how can i figure the size controller needed to future proof my system if I want to add more portable panels in the future? Thanks for helping me learn this stuff.

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  • donmontalvodonmontalvo Member Posts: 129
    edited July 11
    2024 320S Boondock Black Canyon.

    I added a second Victron 100|30 MPPT (controller) on the driver side wheel compartment, near the rear wall (like your image - whereas the same controller came from the factory at the front of the compartment and the 2x190W panels are wired to it). I upgraded the SAE port to one that uses 10AWG wire. Thanks to advice from other people in the same spot, future proofed to handle up to a 440W solar panel.

    I put two circuit breakers underneath it, so I can disconnect and reconnect, in order as per best practice.



    Here is the URL to my latest schematic if you want the details...right-click to open in new browser window to prevent this forum app from downsampling it, making it illegible:

    https://donmontalvo.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/20250520-camper-schematic.png



    Don Montalvo | Retired Veteran | Full Time Snowbird
    2024 nuCamp T@b 320S Boondock Black Canyon (480W solar|200ah LiFePO4|1200W inverter)
    2021 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon (130W solar|100ah LiFePO4|DCDC|1000W inverter)
    https://revkit.com/donmontalvo/ | https://donmontalvo.com
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  • pthomas745pthomas745 Moderator Posts: 4,190
    A 100 watt panel, in theory, in the lab, under perfect conditions...might produce 8 amps.  For a 100 watt panel, a 10 amp solar controller should be fine.
    And, it goes up from there.  I have a 200 watt solar setup with a 20 amp controller.
    2017 Outback
    Towed by 2014 Touareg TDi
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  • mp3phelanmp3phelan Member Posts: 3
    Ok - this is very helpful. A couple of questions, did you use the ports in the nautilus to enter the camper? And in your diagram I see the two inline 30amp fuses and two 30 amp circuit breakers (on either side of the solar controller). Is the inline fuse and the circuit breaker leading into the solar controller for redundancy sake?

    One last question, is it foolish for someone who has very limited experience with electrical and wiring to attempt this type of project on my own? Or if I take my time, can I figure this out with causing damage to the existing system if I don’t get it right the first time? I’d like to better understand how the camper is wired since problems seem inevitable, but not sure. Thanks for the coaching and advice.
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  • Yoshi_TABYoshi_TAB Member Posts: 499
    edited July 14
    Hi, I added a inverter with transfer switch, moved my batteries inside and added additional solar capacity  switch starting with limited experience.  You can do it.  Start by making a drawing of the existing system and then make a drawing with the new components, including a listing of wire sizes and fuse sizes.  Once you have a drawing, its really just  a matter of making the changes.  The challeging parts are finding mounting locations of the hardware and sometimes getting wires routed to where you need them.  Post your drawing here and we can make any suggestions.  

    The OEM wiring seems complex at first, but once you start doing a point to point wire tracing it will become clear.  The huge advantage of doing it yourself is your really get to know your system (easier troubleshooting) and you know components along wire and fusing are sized properly (and it's fun).

    Here is a great site to read posts of others who did the same work.  You will learn a lot that way.  Vehicle Mounted Systems | DIY Solar Power Forum

    A lot of good installation videos here.  Look in the beginners section.   EXPLORIST life Mobile Marine & Off-Grid Electrical - YouTube

    One other thing, IMO watch for knockoffs of electrical components on Amazon.  For me, when it comes to electrical components, it's worth it to buy name brand parts for a bit more, 
    2025 360 CS 
    2021 TAB 320 BD (w/new owner having fun)
    2021 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    Southern Maryland
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