The Executive Summary (Too Long, Didn't Read) version:
Use the voltage and current specs of your solar array to pick your MPPT, not the power rating
I've seen a lot of confusion on safely matching solar panels with a Maximum Power Point Charger (MPPT). Some discussions have implied that you mustn't connect too "powerful" of an array to a controller which won't deliver all that power to your batteries. That misstates the real limits; the power is not a factor! The rules for safety are
described by Victron here (it even suggests oversizing your array by 30%):
There are two limits, when determining the maximum array size that can be connected to an MPPT:
Both values are specified in the datasheets of all our
MPPT Solar Charge Controllers. Those two ratings of the PV array must not exceed these MPPT limits.
Note that these two maximum ratings must
not be multiplied to determine the maximum installable peak power. Instead, each of them needs to checked by itself:
The Maximum PV open circuit voltage (Voc at STC)
The Maximum PV short circuit current (Isc at STC)
Let's look at a common MPPT: the SmartSolar 75/15. Those two numbers are the hard limits (< 75 volts, < 15 amps) for what
your solar array provides. To exceed either of those limits would fry the MPPT. As long as your array stays under both of those individual limits, the MPPT will be fine. If in high summer your array sometimes provides more power than your MPPT can deliver to your batteries, you still don't need to upgrade your controller. When you have that much sun, the batteries are probably sitting pretty by the end of the day.
An extreme example:
You could connect 3 Renogy 175w panels (Voc = 23.9, Ics = 9.5A) in series and feed them into a single 75/15. When in series the voltages add up (not the current) providing a maximum of 71.7v or 9.5A to the charger. Those are less than 75 and 15 respectively, so it is safe. It's true that the charger will not consume all 175*3=525 watts, which would approach 40 amps of LFP charging. If you expect to need those 525 watts all the time then you'd want to upgrade the controller to something like the SmartSolar 100/30 - but you wouldn't break anything by staying with the smaller one.
Note that it would be
unsafe to connect those panels in
parallel. Then, the currents would add up instead of the voltage, and their 9.5*3=28.5 amps would be enough to burn out the MPPT. In that case get the 100/30.
We've had front and back rooftop solar panels for about five years and stayed with a 75/15. They add up to 300 potential watts, but since they face different directions it is impossible for both to simultaneously generate their nameplate power.
Well, impossible unless the sun gets 50% brighter. In that case a broken MPPT charger will be the least of my worries.
Comments
edit to add:
When we upgraded our roof top solar from 100W to 310W, the original 75/15 controller worked because the panel's maximum power voltage was 39.6, but even in full sun putting out near it's 310W rating , it would not charge at over 15 amps.
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
60,865 camping miles through the end of 2025
Ah, yes. I should have mentioned this.
2018 T@B 320 CS-S; Alde 3020; 4 cyl 2020 Subaru Outback Onyx XT