“Window” A/C Grill — T@B 320S (2019 model)

So, the Arizona sun and heat has taken its toll on the A/C grill on the driver’s side of my 320S. (I will try to upload a picture.) Has anyone replaced that grill and, if so, with what?

Thanks in advance.


2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6

Comments

  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    I guess this is what I get for parking the A/C side of the trailer towards the West. 😆

    Any suggestions for a replacement or am I better off contacting NuCamp to see if a replacement is available? 
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • rfuss928rfuss928 Member Posts: 1,169
    There have been several nice grill improvements that include travel covers and flow deflectors to improve efficiency.  I did a couple searches to try and find examples but came up empty.
    Maybe a moderator will do better...

  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    Thanks for the response. I did come across the flow deflectors thread while I was searching this issue. But as I understood it, those deflectors were added to the original grill. I will probably end up doing that after I replace the grill unless the replacement itself has adjustable louvers or something similar. I am just uncertain whether I can just find a comparable size grill from a hardware store or department and caulk it in the opening and call it the day. 
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • Grumpy_GGrumpy_G Member Posts: 698
    I think this is just a wall vent cover for a 8x20 duct (doublecheck the size though). I didn't find any that look exactly like the one Nucamp used but one made out of aluminum might be better anyways. 
  • MickerlyMickerly Member Posts: 484
    There used to be a cover to replace the grill. Manually opened when using the air conditioner. It was a little pricey. Two years ago when I was looking. 
    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"
  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    Thanks for this. Yes, I came across that item too. A diamond plate metal cover matching the front of the T@B. IIRC it was about in the $300-$500 range. Not a bad idea in my neck of the desert where dust from windy desert days and dirt roads is common. I thought about it for a long time (even before the current grill malformed) but decided it was a more $$$ than I was willing to spend on the concept. 
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,420
    Recently did a similar repair for a friend's 2016 320.  Here is the tag off the original metal vent (you have one that appears to be plastic):

    Here is a link to a vendor on eBay that has one:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/385812397297?_skw=krueger+s580+10+x+22+grill&itmmeta=01KJC5MX4JE5T7513JBHQXH0DN&hash=item59d435fcf1:g:KDgAAOSw0alku1G6&itmprp=enc:AQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xA45lUL8NZHpZIMO2I4otHdQ9xoQXyk6R8aRa0/6O+SL8fYaAVJGhxqzx27bBFJpMib+9P7l3qVagOEDGdA3/eq9GgCD4l4V8TLf2295ZDmmQOt+pB76R3DrXuGlc3HyqK/Mp0fboBB/P9z6lN2BaNubs7Muq9Ou8vjJrdG3DN4x28L2aBO68qyZW6L55lLrVKDGE3l2A6NVFPa9gDU67VIaxZFKJddUf2VcsIcHdGihqEh8alKrvLcoS7L29rbHJaYXdCpVa4BIHp4q1PFEVtTsQlLzf7EBwBPLhKbIs6nRTM+Q92kYpmJXQFfJfoOLmo=|tkp:Bk9SR7jS04WTZw

    The overall size of the new vent is approximately 10" x 22" (very close to the factory vent size).

    Word of caution - this eBay vent is made from a much heavier metal than the factory aluminum model.  Simply screwing it into the side wall will not work.  You must drill the old holes (there are four of them) completely through the sidewall so that you can use nuts and bolts to secure it.  You cannot see the factory holes because this aftermarket vent covers them.  You will see the four holes after you remove the damaged vent.  The factory holes will match the holes on the new vent.  No need to drill new holes.  In order to use nuts and bolts, you will need to remove the A/C from the inside cabinet.

    The two side baffles on your A/C need to be repositioned in order for your A/C to work properly.  They are held in place with aluminum tape and have come loose.  Very easy fix with the A/C unit out of the cabinet.  Note that the hot exhaust air from the unit is expelled from the rear of the unit.  However, the fresh intake air is sucked in through the two sides of the unit.  This is a problem because the unit is mounted in an interior cabinet - not sitting outside a residential window with plenty of airflow.  Without those side baffles properly installed, some of the hot exhaust air will get sucked back into the sides of the cabinet along with the fresh air.  Hope this helps.
    2016 Outback 320
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    @Tabaz  Thank you very much for this information. Yes, my vent grill is definitely not metal, and I am not certain if it is even screwed in at all. At least there are no screws visible from the outside. I am wondering if the non metal grills were just caulked in. I guess I will find out when I remove the A/C unit and take a look from the inside. Thanks also for the info re the baffles. I rarely use the A/C as most of my camping is boondocking and I do not have a generator relying on solar instead. It sometimes gets used at state parks and such during the shoulder season. I will report back regarding the screws or lack thereof.
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,420
    I would bet money that your existing vent is held on only with caulk. Using a brand new, small, plastic putty knife, gently break the caulk seal around the edge of the vent.  It should pop right off with very little resistance.  Be careful not to scratch the sidewall in the process.  With the old vent removed, you can now see the thickness of the trailer's sidewall in the vent opening (about 1" if I recall).  Take the new eBay vent to your local hardware store and get four new counter-sunk bolts with matching nuts and flat washers long enough to allow for the thickness of the vent, the sidewall, and the nuts and washers on the inside of the sidewall (1 1/2" long if I recall).  You can error on the side of a bit too long, because the location of the vent holes do not interfere with the A/C unit once in place.  Once the new vent is in place, there is no need to caulk around it.  This results in a nice, clean look from the outside.  Good luck.
    2016 Outback 320
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    Thank you @Tabaz!
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • DesertDwellerDesertDweller Member Posts: 136
    @Tabaz Thanks again but I am not sure I understand why I need new holes drilled in the vent. The vent appears to have preexisting holes. I am not sure what I am missing. 
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite a/k/a "The D@wghouse"
    2025 Ford Ranger XLT 2.7L V6
  • Tabaz Tabaz Member Posts: 2,420
    You do NOT need to drill holes in the vent.  You only need to drill through the existing holes in the sidewall.  The current sidewall holes only go in about 1/4" to accommodate the screws that held the factory vent in place.  You need to drill these holes so that they go all the way through the sidewall to accommodate the new bolts. Because the new vent is much heavier than the factory aluminum model, it must be attached with bolts - not screws.  Hope this provides some clarification. My apologies if my previous posts were confusing.
    2016 Outback 320
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
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