Inside Battery Hookup - Proposed Wiring

Mouseketab · May 31

I know I've been asking a lot of questions lately. I've done quite a bit of wiring to my truck and my former T@B, but I've always had my dad to confirm my drawings, and supervise my actual connections to make sure I didn't blow anything up. Unfortunately, we lost him in December, so I'm doing this completely on my own without his professional/ loving confirmation.

2022 T@B 320 CS-S. OK, after I've spent hours reading threads, and looking at pictures and asking questions. I think I've got it correct for my new wiring and moving my battery inside. (I took an idea from someone else's drawings, and made my own adding the negative wiring, and adding the solar controller). Please put your opinions if I've got this correct please. Thanks! (I used Red for positive and black for negative)

After asking questions, I'm pretty sure this is my original setup. (Thanks to the forum member(s) for your previous drawings. I copied heavily).

This is what I believe I should do for the new. Straight lines are existing or relocated. Curvy lines are new. The new item in the tub is a 12V power port that I'm going to mount through the wall of one of the bins. I am going to disconnect/cut the original wiring from the solar controller out to the tub.

The DC-DC charger is already in my truck. I installed that years ago for my former T@B, but I've not run the wiring to the new T@B yet. (I pulled it out of the old T@B, but just need to install the correct connection rings, and run it along the 7-way and into the box below the T@B).

Also, yes a 100AH lithium will suit my needs. Mainly need battery power for my fridge while driving, and powering my 12V freezer when parked. (Work parking lot before trips, going straight back to work after trips, and touring spot parking lots after checkout, but before starting my drive home). I use full hookup campgrounds.

MuttonChops · June 1

My 2-cents.
YES, your two diagrams are correct and functional.

Two suggestions to consider:

Install an in-line fuse on the 12VDC port placed in the Tub. As that is the most likely spot to get a surprise short.
Alde 3020 really don't need the extra direct ground, assuming that is what you are showing. One quality ground is all the 'after 3010' Adle needs . . but if it is already there, no big deal.

For my visualization of your diagrams, I've edited a more standard wiring diagram. Believe these wire counts by terminal match yours . . . same real-world wiring.

Mouseketab · June 1

@MuttonChops Thank you!!

The 12V port I have purchased has a built-in inline fuse.

The factory had installed the extra ground from the Alde directly to the battery, so I am replicating. (Other folks commented the Alde had quit working until they replicated that ground).

Yoshi_TAB · June 1

Hi, Just to confirm that the extra ground is for the Alde, as a suggestion, remove that wire with everything else still connected to battery and see if your Alde does not turns on..then you will know for sure.

Mouseketab · June 1

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/221685#Comment_221685

One, I've already disconnected everything, and two, nuCamp placed that 2nd ground wire on the same ring as the main negative, so would actually have to cut the wire to test that. nuCamp has confirmed by email to another member that the 2nd negative on the main power bundle is indeed a direct ground to the Alde.

Mouseketab · June 6

@MuttonChops I have another question about my wiring setup. As the diagram I created above shows. I plan on taking the old wires that used to go to the battery and attaching them to bus bars, then run a 12V socket out to the front of my front bin.

My question is can I just mount those bus bars into the bottom of my metal front bin?? Or is that an issue? (Just a little freaked out about mounting 12 connections onto metal).

OR are the bus bars even needed? Can I just connect those wires directly to the 12V socket with butt connectors?

MuttonChops · June 6

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/221764#Comment_221764

Answer depends on what type/style "buss bar" you purchase.

Some are pure metal, some have an electrical isolation between the 'buss' and the mounting screws.

For the +12VDC 'buss' I do suggest a water proof style is used or created.
Consider Something Like These

Mouseketab · June 6

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/221765#Comment_221765

The link you shared is the exact ones I have :)

Thanks!

Mouseketab · June 16

@MuttonChops , just want to confirm something. I have all the inside stuff done, just waiting till this weekend for my son to help me put the front bin back on to finish the outside stuff. If I leave the existing front cutoff switch off and the fuse out of the wiring left out front, I can safely power up the inside stuff to start allowing the converter to "learn" that the new battery is lithium?

MuttonChops · June 16

@Mouseketab said:
. . . safely power up the inside stuff to start allowing the converter to "learn" that the new battery is lithium

Yes.
Just turning off the 'Battery Switch' feeding the new tub 12VDC port is all that is needed.

Side Note:
WFCO Power Center are very poor at auto-selecting the Li-ion Charge Mode.
Believe the battery must be near zero charge.
Consider installing the 'Li-Ion Jumper' on the convertor PCB to force Li-ion mode.
There are several forum threads on adding the jumper.

Mouseketab · June 16

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/221941#Comment_221941

Thanks. I've read that, but want to try the auto-detect first. Yes, I know I need to let the battery drop down pretty low. I will look into the jumper at a future time.

Mouseketab · June 17

It all works!!!

qhumberd · June 17

Congrats @Mouseketab

Inside Battery Hookup - Proposed Wiring

Comments

Categories