Alde

warren207 · October 2015

Ok. No hot water again. However, I discovered that I had a "little" visitor while my unit was parked in storage. He/She decided to chew the wiring that goes to the Alde Control Panel down thru the cabinet. I now will be getting with my dealer to have this repaired. Nothing like having hot water.

Nomad · October 2015

Critters :-(

Jeanne · October 2015

I just found this post again after looking for it for sometime. We have had trouble with our fuses blowing in the Alde. I have obtained some with 250 amp, and hoping that solves the problem. (Actually it is the same fuse that blows every time.)Our T@B is also 2014, so wondering if we have the same wiring issue. Where was the facility in Washington that you used? Just finished winterizing for our first time, so I won't have any resolution on this until Spring. Hate putting the baby in hybernation for the winter. (Fortunately we live in WA)

Michigan_Mike · October 2015

One other thing you should do is to make sure the main breaker is open inside your electric converter in the trailer prior to hooking up to a campground pedestal. Many Little Guy owners have experienced blown fuses in their panels, etc. when the breaker was left closed and then plugging into a pedestal 30 amp receptacle. If you don't do this you're basically firing up the trailer at the point of connection at the pedestal (picking up the trailer load) and the surge of voltage into the trailer sometimes results in fuses blowing via the load placed on the circuit. Having the ALDE unit turned off in advance would certainly might help to minimize this situation, as would having other mounted components and lights turned off as well.

Bert · October 2015

I want to make sure that I read Michigan_Mike's post correctly. After I arrive at the campground (or my driveway), I'm supposed to go into the trailer, throw (open) all the breakers, plug the trailer in, then close the breakers so the trailer has electricity. I have been noticing blue sparks when the Tab is plugged into or disconnected from power and had thought that it might be enough to blow a fuse.

jkjenn · October 2015

Bert said:

I want to make sure that I read Michigan_Mike's post correctly. After I arrive at the campground (or my driveway), I'm supposed to go into the trailer, throw (open) all the breakers, plug the trailer in, then close the breakers so the trailer has electricity. I have been noticing blue sparks when the Tab is plugged into or disconnected from power and had thought that it might be enough to blow a fuse.

I would think using a surge protector would be easier and safer.

Nomad · October 2015

Blue sparks where - at the campground pedestal?
At campgrounds you should throw the breakers in the pedestal to "off" before plugging in the power cable. Once all connected (pedestal & T@B), then turn the pedestal breakers on. For added safety, you could also throw the breakers inside the T@B and turn them on once everything's hooked up - I don't.
You could also use a surge protector as Jenn mentions. She has one of those expensive, internally mounted jobbies. I just use a small one (roughly 30 bucks from Amazon) that looks like a bulbous adapter and shows lights if the circuit is ok.

ChanW · October 2015

They say it's a good idea to check the power coming out of the pedestal before you plug into it. There are circuit testers that will tell you if the pedestal is wired correctly.

I like this one (at Amazon): Sperry Outlet Tester

Bert · October 2015

Thanks. I bought a fancy external surge and low voltage protector. I hadn't realized what it could do for me when I was plugging in at home

Nomad · October 2015

I have just the small tester that also works as a surge protector - Somewhat similar to Chans. I think Verna has the same one I have.

ChanW · October 2015

Note that the one PXL is picturing is good for the 30A outlet, where the one I have is only for the 15A style outlet. I simply use my 30A/15A adapter when I test an outlet.

jkjenn · October 2015

Bert said:

Thanks. I bought a fancy external surge and low voltage protector. I hadn't realized what it could do for me when I was plugging in at home

If you are plugging at home, you should not set the Alde control, all the way to the top as your home wiring (unless you installed a 30amp outlet) isn't meant for that kind of draw. That could be the issue.

warren207 · February 2016

Jeanne said:

I just found this post again after looking for it for sometime. We have had trouble with our fuses blowing in the Alde. I have obtained some with 250 amp, and hoping that solves the problem. (Actually it is the same fuse that blows every time.)Our T@B is also 2014, so wondering if we have the same wiring issue. Where was the facility in Washington that you used? Just finished winterizing for our first time, so I won't have any resolution on this until Spring. Hate putting the baby in hybernation for the winter. (Fortunately we live in WA)

warren207 · February 2016

I contacted Alde in Washington State about my issue. He then contacted my dealer here in CO. I took my unit to the dealer who made the repairs under the warranty.

jkjenn · February 2016

PXLated said:

I have just the small tester that also works as a surge protector - Somewhat similar to Chans. I think Verna has the same one I have.

A tester tests the line at that moment. It isn't a surge protector. A surge protector provides constant protection from low and high voltage spikes as well as other issues that can develop. This device might trip a circuit but it won't shut off the power flow. If it is damaged from a spike, and the breaker is reset, you have no further protection.

If that is sufficient for your needs, that's great, but I don't want people under the impression is performs the same functions as a surge protector.

Nomad · February 2016

Well aware of that. Don't think I ever implied it did.
I hear more about bad campground wiring than I do surges etc. so works out well for that.

jkjenn · February 2016

PXLated said:

Well aware of that. Don't think I ever implied it did.
I hear more about bad campground wiring than I do surges etc. so works out well for that.

Actually, you said it worked as a surge protector.

PXLated said:

I have just the small tester that also works as a surge protector -

Nomad · February 2016

Dang :-(
Ok, I take it all back :-)
I knew that if anyone was going to find my brain fart it'd be you :-) -- Where do you find the time?

mash2 · February 2016

The tester does a bit more than merely show faults for reverse polarity, open neutral, and other power pedestal wiring issues. According to their literature, it also protects your RV from dangerous high (>132 VAC) and low (<102 VAC) voltage levels; automatically disconnects from dangerous voltage and reconnects after power stabilizes; Integrated surge protection: 1,050 joules power rating. While it is primarily used to analyze a power outlet/pedestal wiring, it does offer some "surge protector" functionality. While you can certainly buy more extensive surge protection, the CAMCO does provide protection from low and high voltage spikes. If I read their literature correctly, the device will shut off the power flow.

Nomad · February 2016

VINDICATED - Thank you mash2 :-)
I use it so rarely It was easy for Jenn to get me - couldn't remember why I bought that one. I think Verna ecommended it at one time before she joined the Jenn club and went all big time on surge.

jkjenn · February 2016

PXLated said:

VINDICATED - Thank you mash2 :-)

Not so fast....

The 5310 trip a circuit breaker. If you go to flip it back on and the unit was damaged from a spike (which does not seem unusual if you read the Amazon review comments about melting) you will have no protection. This type of protection leaves the neutral line hot. This article spells out why it's not the same as a surge protector:

"Killing power at the breaker does nothing as the neutral line remains hot. Do I need to spell out the dangers here? Even if the breaker trips the line, the current continues to flow through because it disconnects the circuit at the ground, not the live line.Now you have a fire hazard and a shock hazard. Many RVs are grounded to the chassis, so you are essentially every piece of metal on the rig is a live connection."
Does it provide some level of surge protection? Yes, a very minimal. I am not sure you can qualify it as a surge protector. A decent surge protector should be UL listed, automatically shut down open ground and reverse polarity, and come with a Connected Equipment Warranty. The other major factor is the watrenty
Here is a pretty good comparison chart of which protectors do what.
(Mods may want to split this into a separate thread)

Nomad · February 2016

Jenn - I knew you wouldn't give up :-)

mash2 · February 2016

I knew it would get a response. I've got a real surge protector, but I'm so rarely hooked up that I wouldn't have got it unless I got a great deal (but I did get a great deal).
I'd agree that if you hook up often, the risk rises and the full protector is worth the investment. If a rare occasional hookup, make your own assessment (how many times have you hooked up to RV shore power in last year Pxlated?)

Nomad · February 2016

mash2 - Not counting in my three brothers driveways - 3-5 additional times :-)
If I was a steady campground/hookup camper like Jenn & the many others, I'd probably pop for a dedicated, multifunction unit. Can't see myself ever doing that though.

mash2 · February 2016

If I see a last year model for a great deal, I'll put up a link (I got my last year model for about $70, well worth the price.)

Alde

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