My first camping trip for 2014 is April 6th, how do I get T@b ready after winter?

jbug10 · March 2014

Poor T@b, I haven't camped in her since Thanksgiving! She's been covered, sitting in storage, winterized and her battery is dead. Other than de-winterizing, what else needs to be checked before heading out for the first time?

[Deleted User] · March 2014

I'd check tires pressures and trailer lights as well as confirming basic equipment check list (stove, fridge, outlets, air and heat etc.)

Cyclonic · March 2014

Pretty much sums it up, I have been working on that today. I also pulled any gear I had left in the T@Bpole out and gave the inside a good cleaning, top to bottom, for a nice fresh start. I've been doing a lot of little things to the T@Bpole over the winter, and am looking forward to our shake down trip next weekend.

jbug10 · March 2014

I think I was mostly wondering about the battery and do I need to check the water. And maybe the brakes too? I did check the brake fluid recently.

Cyclonic · March 2014

If you are winterized with anti-freeze, you may want to give your system a good flush before heading out, the stuff tastes terrible :-& I prefer not to travel with water in the tanks, it is a lot of extra weight that also sloshes around, so if you can't flush it at home you should set up at a campground with full hookups so you can do that there.

If you don't have a maintenance free battery, check the water level on it. Your TV should charge your battery while in transit, at least a little, depending how far you go. Another reason for a full hookup site, with you plugged into power the converter will act as a tender and charge the battery completely by the end of the weekend.

Brakes should be fine, but check your tire pressure and list the trailer and just check that the wheels are spinning freely. If you put more then 5000 miles on the trailer you will want to think about regreasing the hubs.

[Deleted User] · March 2014

I thought that the later models (2013 and beyond) had sealed bearings and didn't need re-greasing ? I could be wrong, there is a lot of speculation on a couple forums.

jbug10 · March 2014

Thanks cyclonic, I planned on flushing out the anti-freeze. OK don't laugh, but how do I know I have a maintenance free battery or the kind I have to add water? Neil, how can we check to see if we have sealed bearings on our 2013 T@bs?

[Deleted User] · March 2014

The only way I know how to confirm it myself would be to remove the wheel and hub, which I have no intention of doing. I have 7,000 miles on our T@B and I intend to jack up each side and check the wheel for free movement and excessive play in the bearing by rocking the wheel back and forth with hands at top and bottom and adjusting it if there is excessive play. This is easily done with virtually no disassembly. If it feels right, I'll be off for this year's travel and will check in with LG personnel at the Tearstock Rally in August about whether or not it has sealed bearings. If you can't wait till then, I'd give Ed Kauffman a call and check the labelling on the trailer frame for the production date beforehand and ask him. If you get a definitive answer, please post it here for the rest of us

Wanderoo · March 2014

Jbug -- My 2014 T@B has a Deko Deep Cycle 24 Group battery and it is one that needs to have the water level monitored. My dealer told me to check it every 6 months. Look on the top of your battery. There are plastic covers that pop off (not easily). Dealer told me to use a flat-head screwdriver to remove them (insert head under the plastic tab and twist ). CAUTION: Use eye goggles when removing the covers in the event of battery acid splash. I would use some gloves, too.

Another idea if your battery needs charging, is to take it to a Midas or some place that will charge it for you and you can ask them to check the water level.

:-<

RZRBUG · March 2014

My T@B is a 2013 model, and it does NOT have sealed bearings. After reading a post somewhere that someone got a trailer (not a T@B) that was delivered without grease, I took mine off and checked right after I got it. One of the problems is that there have been so many different axle combinations used before and after Little Guy took over that it is almost impossible to know without actually looking at them. Same goes for brakes, I think...surge, electric, hydraulic, etc. I am no mechanic, but know enough to be able to take a look and tell the differences in these things. When it comes to fixing a problem, that might be a different story all together.

My battery is a sealed Interstate that does not require adding water. BTW, seems I recall that if you have a battery that you need to add water to, it is best to use distilled water.

Verna · March 2014

Yes, a non-sealed battery must be filled with distilled water. Care must be taken to NOT splash the acid on you, your clothes, or surroundings. At the phone company, we were required to wear goggles and a rubber apron when dealing with their large banks of batteries. Be careful. Seriously, if you don't know what you are doing around a battery, please ask an experienced person to help you and show you so you can do it after that. .

[Deleted User] · March 2014

Since LG is in such a tight building schedule now I hate to bother them at the factory with routine questions. Maybe one of the moderators here could ask the question if there is a "build-date" where they may have switched to the sealed wheel bearings on the T@Bs ? I know the latest axle vendor that they switched to recently is supposed to have installed sealed bearings but I have to wonder exactly where or when the switch was actually made.

Rzrbug .... I know you have a 2013 model but it could have been built in late 2012 for example. My 2013 has a build date sticker showing April, 2013 as the build date so it may be equipped differently.

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

Regarding the T@B axles and required maintenance, people need to understand that the factory did change manufacturers in early 2013, switching from ALCO axles to Dexter axles. With that said each T@B unit built might require different or varied maintenance processes, depending on which axle was installed, whether it has bearings requiring grease or a sealed or maintenance free bearing, etc. Dexter does install maintenance free bearings on some of their rubber torsion axles but I cannot say with certainty that the factory is currently installing them on any T@B units as quite frankly, I don't know.

In the interim, owners should always refer to the brochures and information provided with the trailer at the time of purchase or consult with your distributor/dealer, and as a last resort call the factory for clarification as to their recommended maintenance procedure(s). A qualified RV maintenance center professional can also help if you have questions regarding your wheel bearings.

I sent a note on to the factory this evening requesting some clarification on the axle question and will post up their reply once I receive it.

[Deleted User] · March 2014

Thanks for the sound advice Mike. I've gone through the 1 inch thick stack of print material provided by the dealer that came with my T@B and there is no information relating to the provided axle what so ever. Also, the dealer didn't seem to be very informed about the design features of the T@B and is located over 200 miles away, so I can't really use them as a resource. I did find literature relating to the hydraulic brake system with the reminder to adjust the brakes after the first 1000 miles, so I've got another thing on my "to do" list.

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

This is the response back from the factory this morning:

ALKO Axles on Dutchmen T@Bs (from Europe) - sealed; no maintenance required

ALKO and DEXTER axles from Pleasant Valley - not sealed, equipped with zerk fittings/bearing buddies

*Inspect and grease once a year or 20,000 miles.

[Deleted User] · March 2014

Awesome informatiion Mike, exactly what I was hoping to hear. I've had 18 years experience at towing boats around the country and am very familiar with bearing buddies. Boat trailers are typically backed in at launch ramps after towing so the "hot" bearing sucks water into it when submerged in the cold water. I would typically add a bit of grease routinely to purge any water from the bearing. I still have the same bearings in my boat trailer after 10 years and possibly 50,000 miles so these bearings can last a long time if you just stay on top of it a little bit. They can be a bit messy as some of the old grease is forced out of the bearing back side but if you add grease until you see some of the new clean grease being forced out, you can be pretty sure that the bearing is topped off with the fresh grease and will be good to go.

RZRBUG · March 2014

Well, as I said on the old forum before it bit the dust, my axle is neither an ALKO nor a Dexter, unless Axletech made one or the other because that is what is stamped on mine. The T@B was made by Little Guy 9/2012. The axle is equipped with zerk fittings to make greasing easier. As I have suggested before, we cannot assume that all dates and/or models are identically equipped or built. As the moderators have said, you need to use advice/information on this site as suggestions. When someone says that they did this or that to their brakes or axles or batteries, etc., you need to be sure your equipment is identical before trying to replicate their suggestions.

[Deleted User] · March 2014

More good advice =D>

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

I agree 100% with what you said Larry as we try to help people and are only as good as past experience/advice dictate. It's obviously pretty hard to cover all bases and there are exceptions out there to every rule or advice given as you have duly noted above. I've always been able to do most of my own maintenance and modifications, but there are times when I cannot do certain repairs as I don't always have that specialty tool or equipment to perform things like welding, etc. and hand it off to the specialists to ensure that things are performed correctly.

And when it comes to bearings and maintaining them, this is an integral part of the trailer and requires proper maintenance and some know how as you can get into trouble here. I learned a ton last summer after having a bearing go bad on my 5-wide Little Guy and being literally stranded out at Dead Horse State Park in Arizona, more than 2000 miles from home. It's a scary feeling and thankfully Little Guy helped me out, networked with the distributor out in Phoenix and I was able to obtain a replacement axle.

jbug10 · March 2014

Axles/brakes/batteries....that was the info I wanted to find out about when I started this post. It's great that the guys have the tools and the know-how to do all this stuff. I, however, have to rely on trained professionals I like reading how to do all the maintenance things, and finding out the things I need to have checked out, but I have no inclination to do them myself.

Thanks everybody for your input.

jbug10 · March 2014

I was re-reading the post to jot down things for the RV place to do. Two questions: wheel bearings and axels are both mentioned. Are you guys talking about the same thing, or are they two different things that need to be checked? Also, where are you finding the build date?

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

We are talking the same thing and were alluding to the fact that Little Guy had changed manufacturers of their axle assemblies that have the wheel hub and bearings within the hub area and mounted to the axle.

Little Guy previously did business with AL-KO, their axle supplier. But there were some issues therein and they decided to go with Dexter Axle Company early last year.

I'm guessing that the build date would be stamped along the axle somewhere, but have not physically looked for it. Maybe Neil will be able to answer that part of the question?

[Deleted User] · March 2014

I've never known what the build date of the axle is ... in fact I'm not even sure what brand it is, but I have referenced the build date of the trailer.

On the left side of the frame there are an assortment of labels .... note the rectangular grey label ....

Now look at the upper right corner of that grey label .... across the top it says "Manufactured by Pleasant Valley Teardrop Trailers" followed by the build date "04/2013"

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

This is an interesting bit of information from Dexter: FAQ

[Deleted User] · March 2014

The article reminds me of Artie Shaw dressed as Wolfgang, the German officer on Laugh In as he touches his finger tips together and says with a sly smile .... "verrrrry inteeeresting"

jbug10 · March 2014

Neil, huh??

Mike that was a great link, thanks! It had several FAQs that I had been wondering about especially concerning the brakes. I know I have said this before.....but you are always so helpful and post the best stuff. I am very glad you are our forum monitor as well as LG's

[Deleted User] · March 2014

June .... I guess you didn't watch Laugh In back in the day as the Artie Shaw reference instilled in me a reaction to say "veeeerry inteeeresting" everytime I discovered a new bit of helpful information (which Mike's attachment did).

Michigan_Mike · March 2014

Thanks June, everyone is trying to help out (as time permits), keep things working and make the forum work and we are all busy as well with the normal, daily rigors of life so I try to lend a hand when I can. But will admit, this double-dippin' forum duty eats up a lot of time and I should be outdoors tending to other things.

Hope you all have a great weekend!

Wanderoo · March 2014

I looked on my T@b's tongue, and my manufacture date is 9/2013 - Pleasant Valley Trailers. The brochure I received with all the dealer info for my T@B relates to the ALKO axle. This most likely means I have the bearings that are NOT sealed and I need to have them looked at/greased/serviced in 12 months. This information is very helpful, and I would not even have known about this if it were not for this forum. THANK YOU GUYS for helping me become a responsible T@B owner!!!! I love my ClemenT@B. :x

[Deleted User] · March 2014

From a post yesterday I put on the LG forum .....

Just came back in from doing the wheel bearing and brake adjustments. Discovered that the instructions for the hydraulic brake system show the brake adjusment 180 degrees from what it should be. It shows the brake tool inserted through the access hole with an arrow pointing up at the far end of the tool with the word "tighten" above it. To me that indicates that the star adjuster inside would turn downwards each click as you raised the tool to expand the brake shoes. I kept making a few clicks adjustment and checking to see if there was any drag on the drum, kept doing it and doing it and doing it until finally the adjuster reached the end of it's travel and wouldn't turn anymore. Still no drag on the drum. I didn't want to but I removed the drum and bearings at that point so that I could examine the brake adjustment from the front side. Sure enough, the adjuster was bottomed out in the retracted position so I rotated the star adjuster the opposite way to expand the bottom of the shoes, put the drum back on, regreased the bearings, and adjusted the shoes with the proper settings until they were right. In any case, we're good to go now for the season

The literature instructs that the brakes should be adjusted after the first 100 miles and then every 2000 miles after that. We've got 7000 miles on Columbia now and I've never done the service so it was time. The right side wheel bearing was just a tad loose and a bit shy on grease so she's up to snuff now. The left side was good as far as the bearing goes and all I needed to do there was adjust the brake shoes out a bit and top off the bearing buddy. I finally found a label by the way identifying my axle as the ALKO, so I consider this a good day that 3 or 4 Motrin can fix now

One good thing about removing the drum is that it gives you an opportunity to inspect several other things as well such as the drum surface, the lining wear (amount of wear and eveness of wear) as well as the slave cylinder for leakage. I was really pleased by what I saw I might add .... everything exactly as it should be

geromo · April 2014

there is a lot of great information contained in these discussions. We have a 2011 t@b. the people i bought it from had no "manuals" for anything installed or for the unit itself. I have been searching the net for info such as operating the "cool cat unit, how to use the furnace, surge brakes, wheel bearings, --i could go on and on. I did find a generic manual but not much on servicing things or when to do them. Each unit is almost unique so what is in one is not in another or it is from a different manufacturer. LG/T@B needs to have a web site set up for the base product as well as the various items installed so people can download what the need for their particular model. It would sure take a lot of mystery out of owning one!!

Howdy, Stranger!

Quick Links

Categories

My first camping trip for 2014 is April 6th, how do I get T@b ready after winter?

Comments