Can Someone Lead Me To A Post On Cabinet Door Supports?

ChanW · February 2016

Yeah, I kind of like it.

The spring method is good, but I'm pretty sure it needs room in the cupboard when closed, although I've never had a problem with it.

HappyCamper · August 2016

OutbackAZ what did you mean in your post when you said Insure the strut has enough room to travel to compress? I installed them and had no problems until recently one popped one hinge out of its joint. I was thinking I might have installed slightly crooked but maybe it was something else. Appreciate any clarification!

Michigan_Mike · August 2016

HappyCamper said:

OutbackAZ what did you mean in your post when you said Insure the strut has enough room to travel to compress? I installed them and had no problems until recently one popped one hinge out of its joint. I was thinking I might have installed slightly crooked but maybe it was something else. Appreciate any clarification!

The hinges are in my opinion overrated and too powerful for the cabinet hinges. I experienced the same thing and if they were half the strength currently afforded this would be a worthy modification.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/ik/xphf4iscbvoe.jpeg

Some of our members have used springs as a means of holding the doors up and this seems to be less invasive pressure wise.

Nomad · August 2016

Always thought the spring thing was pretty ingenous.

rfuss928 · August 2016

My DM clamshell came with these extra spring loaded hinges on the rear cabinets that pass through to the kitchen. I bought two extras and added them to the front overhead cabinets. Pretty easy install. Similar parts are available at Lowes & Home Depot in my area. ~$2
Just another approach to a solution.
Have fun!
Bob

Cyclonic · August 2016

That is a great solution Bob. I have added the struts that Mike mentioned and have not had problems, though several members have, so it is not an isolated thing. They are very powerful.

I could see doing this if I run into problems with the struts.

HappyCamper · August 2016

Many thanks! We are changing ours out!

TabberJohn · October 2016

It sounds like PV may be installing struts on the latest T@Bs or the galley cabinet doors open to the side on some models.
Here is an alternative solution that is drill-less, springless, strutless, and toolless.
This method holds the door flush to the ceiling which I like when prepping food in the galley or packing items for a trip.

Downside: People may ask "What are the little silver dots for?".
I am sure Verna knows how this was done.
If anyone's interested let me know and I'll post the instructions.

BTW: It does not appear the original question posted by Sgtjohn was answered.
This may be the article they were trying to find:

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/41923

Sure would be nice if Vanilla Forums added the ability to search by a selected category and/or title only.
It is a royal PITA to locate articles which is a shame with so much useful info and stories on this forum.

Verna · October 2016

Sure do, @TabberJohn! I just used them last week in my new storage boxes to keep the lids closed during travel.

ericnliz · October 2016

Tabberjohn, Ok, I'll bite, what are they, and could you please post, thanks.

marknjudy · October 2016

I'm guessing magnets glued or taped to the ceiling. Do I win the prize?

Michigan_Mike · October 2016

Rare Earth Magnets

Norbert1223 · October 2016

@TabberJohn Instructions Please ?

TabberJohn · October 2016

Requirements:
- Locktite Super Glue Gel Control (not liquid or extra time control)
- Rare earth magnets, disc style, 1/4" diameter x 1/16", axial, grade 42, 2 per door

You can find "rare earth magnets" on Amazon of course, but I don't trust every supplier there especially if item says "Sold by xxx Fulfilled by Amazon".
Here's a great go-to source: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=1
Notice pull force in lbs is shown for each size and grade.
The SKU I recommend is: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41
I used some leftovers laying around from an artwork mounting project (D31-3/16"). They worked okay, but it would be better if the doors didn't release as easily. Suggested SKU is 1/16" wider and 50% stronger that what I used. There is also a 3/16" 52 grade version (D31-N52) that is 30% stronger than what I used. Take your pick.

The standard cabinet knob is not magnetic, but even if it were the contact area on the curved surface would be insufficient to hold on its own. Two magnets per knob ensures a solid connection between magnets. Angle of contact is something you need to be aware of when you mount the magnets so they meet together when you're done.
Here are the steps --
1. Raise a door to the ceiling and note where the knob makes contact; may not be the center of knob and each door may be different. Also note the angle of ceiling contact to the knob; may not be 90 degrees.
2. Mark that spot on the knob, snap two magnets together (or stack 3 or 4 to make it easy to handle), add glue gel to one end, press and hold on the marked spot at the proper angle until set at (15-30 secs). Wait another 5 minutes for glue to set more. You can check the angle now with just the second magnet added.
3. Add glue to the outside magnet end, open the door flush against the ceiling and press door against the ceiling until glue is set (15-30 secs). Hold another 5 minutes to fully set (good time to fire up the Jensen and listen to some tunes).
Repeat steps on the other door.

I didn't test close/open until the next day since full cure for super glue is actually 12-24 hours.
The result will be a noticeable snap when you raise the doors and a slight tug to release them.
Waiting 12 hours is probably overkill but keep in mind your work will be ruined if you pull things apart before the glue has cured.

If you want to go crazy and turn this into a weekend project that involves tools (yay!) you can add these steps --
2a. Remove knob after marking, place in a vise, and carefully file a flat spot for magnet to fit at the proper angle.
2c. Snap on second magnet, hold door against ceiling and mark location. Carefully drill a shallow countersink hole so magnet fits flush into the ceiling.

The K&J Magnetics site provides everything you ever wanted to know about magnets -- or didn't know. It's worth poking around to read their FAQs or click on hyperlinked text. Rare earth magnets really are a special breed.
The magnets required are only 23 cents each so you may want to buy some other stuff too.
Example, a 10 pack of D41's with self-stick adhesive strips on one side: https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D41AD-P
Adhesive is not likely strong enough to hold a cabinet door, but stick-ons are useful for other projects.
K&J also offers counter-sunk blocks that can be screwed into things to create magnetic closures.

I used the same method on the water pump hatch in the wet bath (Max S). You only need one magnet for that since the latch handle is magnetic and hits flat when held against the wall. Snap the magnet on the outside of the latch finger hold, add super glue gel, raise the hatch lid and press it against the wall until glue sets. Wait until fully set before testing. A stick-on magnet may work here as well since weight is not an issue (only need enough pull strength to hold door vertically on its hinge).
This simple mod sure beats the heck out of holding the hatch door open when you need to futz with the water pump.

Finchy · June 2023

These struts are great. Has anyone put them on any of the other cabinet doors? I tried on a door in the back but it was putting too much leverage on the hinge. I think it will need two of these struts - doesn't seem worth it. Thoughts? Comments? Thanks!

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Can Someone Lead Me To A Post On Cabinet Door Supports?

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