Thoughts Over Coffee: Installing Fans
Comments
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2-1/2 comments I haven't seen mentioned...1) we have a rug underneath the table to protect the floor, but it can easily block those skinny little inlet vents, 2) if you're installing fans, to change from natural convection to forced convection (the Alde is slow to heat up...ESPECIALLY on 110V electric), remember that fans are much better at pushing air than "sucking". So a computer fan underneath, vs. on top, of that back vent would be more effective. 2-1/2) That back, starboard, storage area can easily block air coming into the back heater...sure would be nice to have a thin "duct", or maybe a false floor, to channel the cool inlet air back (may be one of my winter projects).
J.D. & Sue
Durango, CO 2014/15 S M@xx : "Dory's HabiT@B" Keep on swimming...
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So, science was called for.
I heated the trailer up to around 17C. Then, I used an infrared thermometer to check the temps at various points in the trailer. The inside of the back box came in the highest at 40.4C. The lid on the box was around 29C. What I found interesting is the area to the right of the box. The front face of that area, underneath the charging ports, was 29C as well. The other side, in the mirror location, was only 23. I wondering if putting vents underneath the outlets might be another good place to let some hot air out. Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains! -
@DurangoTaB You're right about the rug. Haven't gotten one yet, but will have to take that into consideration when purchasing one. You're right about the storage compartment. Mine is empty at the moment. I can only assume filling it up with stuff will impede flow further.DurangoTaB said:2-1/2 comments I haven't seen mentioned...1) we have a rug underneath the table to protect the floor, but it can easily block those skinny little inlet vents, 2) if you're installing fans, to change from natural convection to forced convection (the Alde is slow to heat up...ESPECIALLY on 110V electric), remember that fans are much better at pushing air than "sucking". So a computer fan underneath, vs. on top, of that back vent would be more effective. 2-1/2) That back, starboard, storage area can easily block air coming into the back heater...sure would be nice to have a thin "duct", or maybe a false floor, to channel the cool inlet air back (may be one of my winter projects).
Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains! -
Didn't someone build a riser on the floor of the storage area so they'd still get air flow thru there but utilize the storage area to it's fullest? Seem to recall that.
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We do have a rug between the benches but it is nominally 2' by 3' and doesn't block the floor vents.John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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Laura Rey, if you get decorative grates you can buy flexible window screening by the foot, cut it to size and hot glue gun it to the back of your grates to keep "stuff" from going down the grate. I used this screening for all sorts of odd projects around. BTW...I am beyond impressed that you have an infrared thermometer! I didn't know those existed. Hmmm......
ChanW, good question about those near floor vents. I've been wondering about blocking those with a cut to size carpet myself. Now, I could drill a few slots above that area for more airflow. Of course, first I need to take delivery of my T@B, a minor detail!2017 T@B 320 Max S silver and cherry red, L@dybug ("Bug" aka my esc@pe pod), TV 2015 Toyota Highlander aka Big Red -
I have cut-in, wall-to-wall carpet - I just cut it back an inch from the vents. Works fine. Definetly not cutting/drilling holes in permanent cabinetry. The shelf is replaceable so fine :-)
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Thanks PXL! Your carpet was what I had in mind, and I've saved your template. This makes much more sense to me!2017 T@B 320 Max S silver and cherry red, L@dybug ("Bug" aka my esc@pe pod), TV 2015 Toyota Highlander aka Big Red
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I hate throw rugs that slide around - No matter what I tried, couldn't keep them in place. Tried that, bought carpet :-)
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@Homebodyatheart The thermometer is great. (https://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=infrared+thermometer&tag=googcana-20&index=aps&hvadid=46080422506&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16480893103163039447&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000892&hvtargid=kwd-11331103&ref=pd_sl_5bzjxgig1o_e) Plus, you can play chase the dot with the cat.Homebodyatheart said:Laura Rey, if you get decorative grates you can buy flexible window screening by the foot, cut it to size and hot glue gun it to the back of your grates to keep "stuff" from going down the grate. I used this screening for all sorts of odd projects around. BTW...I am beyond impressed that you have an infrared thermometer! I didn't know those existed. Hmmm......
ChanW, good question about those near floor vents. I've been wondering about blocking those with a cut to size carpet myself. Now, I could drill a few slots above that area for more airflow. Of course, first I need to take delivery of my T@B, a minor detail!
Definitely had considered the screening. I would forever be dropping stuff down the vents.
Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains! -
PXLated said:My vents no longer are a factor, I stay ahead of the cold. Nothing below 40 (preferably 50) no matter how far I have to drive :-)
https://youtu.be/3SzOUvB1WSg

States the T@Bpole has camped, so far
Nathan & Becky... 2013 Ford F150 FX4 TAB HLR... 2012 LG T@B T@Bpole.
Sterling, VA -
I did further experiments over the weekend. Turns out that if you remove the panel covering the glycol tank, the heat flow improves a lot. I've decided to add a vent on that side panel instead of in the lid of the box. It's very accessible and I can add a ULNA (ultra low noise) 12v fan there easily. I'll wire it in with a switch mounted next to it. I was just planning on on/off, but husband thinks a rheostat would be better so I can control the amount of flow I want. Off to buy parts today.Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains!
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It is 5 below without windchill outside... I am not going anywhere. Besides which, I've gotten a nice cold from my better half. She always shares everything.
Terry & Jody... 2025 Honda Ridgeline RTL
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI -
Please post pics and parts list when you're done!LauraRey said:I did further experiments over the weekend. Turns out that if you remove the panel covering the glycol tank, the heat flow improves a lot. I've decided to add a vent on that side panel instead of in the lid of the box. It's very accessible and I can add a ULNA (ultra low noise) 12v fan there easily. I'll wire it in with a switch mounted next to it. I was just planning on on/off, but husband thinks a rheostat would be better so I can control the amount of flow I want. Off to buy parts today.John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York -
Will do. My seven-year old woke with a fever and vomiting, so no going out today to shop. Poor kid.Photomom said:Please post pics and parts list when you're done!Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains! -
Interim report:
So, just waiting on parts to arrive. The fan is here, but I needed a speed controller for it as well. Just waiting for it to be delivered. The fan I'm using is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B006I6HMXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The only challenge I've faced is the actual mounting of the switch. I was hoping to just have the knob showing, but that will require me to replace the switch (potentiometer) on the speed controller with one that has a longer shaft. I just keep repeating to myself that I wanted to learn more about electrical systems and such. What I've learned is that there are more variations on electrical parts than I could have imagined.Red and White, 2017 Max S being towed by a 2014 Honda Ridgeline. Hello Mountains!
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