Shore power on or off while working on 12V system?

I've had some issues with the tail lights and running lights working intermittently and have been thinking that I want to rework all of the plastic housed crimped connections to soldered connections.  What's been happening is that some of individual taillight LED's work some of the time and sometimes it clears up and they all work.  I've had similar issues with the side running lights.  I've cleaned the tv to trailer 7-pin connections a number of times with mixed results, sometimes that helps, but the problem returns.  The fact that occasionally all of the individual LED's in the taillights do operate has me suspecting that I may have some faulty connections.
My question is can I run the 120V system in the trailer while I'm working on the 12V wiring to the running lights?  I keep the trailer plugged into 120V while it's parked next to the house and, this being summer and all, it'd be a little more comfortable if I could operate the AC while I'm crawling over the benches to get to the wiring.  
Thanks in advance for any help or insight you can offer.

Comments

  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    According to Austin, nüCamp repair, if the lights are intermittent, they will go out as in all of the lights in the one light are one piece and they will all go out. Mine did the intermittent lighting for a while (Pacman on the right rear taillight), and they are fine since nüCamp replaced them. Elsie in nüCamp parts will have the replacements.  Be sure to seal all screw holes and around the light itself. 

    There is a sealed box under the tongue that you could use to check to make sure the wiring is giving you the correct current and voltage. (Be sure to seal it back up with water proof caulking after you have tested.).
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
  • ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,395
    The cabin electrical (both 120V and 12V) should be separate from the trailer's running lights; those get their power from the T/V via the 7-pin harness.

    So, provided you know exactly which wires to cut (or not cut in this case), chill away!
    2015 T@B S
  • Thanks Verna & Scott!  I was hoping to not have to replace the entire unit, but if they're all or nothing, then it looks like that's the route I'll need to go.  Any idea if there's a warranty on these to cover a 2015 model?Currently I've got maybe 4 of the individual LED's in the passenger side taillight working in turn signal and hazard mode and zero on the drivers side, with no issues with the side running lights.  
    This problem 1st showed up during a recent trip to west TX & NM.  I attempted cleaning the plug contacts and even added a  mini bungee to try to tighten up the plug connection and at times most, if not all of the individual LED's, would work, but it's been hit & miss.  I pulled one of the lights and realized that it was a sealed unit with an extremely short wire connection.  I believe it will have to be accessed from the interior to cut the wire's loose for replacement.  LED's typically are long-lived which led me to thinking that the issue was with the connections.  
    Thanks again for the info.
  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    You have a one year warranty from the date of the purchase by the first owner of the T@B. Awesome Elsie knowns exactly which light(s) you need.  But, I still liked my Pacman appearance on my old tail light ;)
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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