Sharon_is_SAM
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- Sharon_is_SAM
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Thank you. Is there a smart charger that you would recommend? Have you ever removed the battery's? If using a smart charger, does that mean you then connect the smart charger directly to the battery's terminal inside the trailer - dumb question I know but I have never used a smart charger and wondering how that works, when charging two 6v battery's in series.August 18-
Sharon_is_SAMWe have a 150 amp AGM battery and we use a Deltran Battery tender - I think 5 amps. I recently read that it is better to charge the AGM even slower, so less than a 5 amp may be better. We simply charge our battery completely using the Deltran (the smart charger has an appropriately high, sustained voltage for the absorption phase of the AGM), then keep it isolated by turning off the battery switch. We never remove the 96# battery! I will get back to you regarding how to connect terminals with the 2 in series 6 volts, but yes, you use alligator clips directly on the terminals. We plug in the trailer to shore power, turn off the battery switch, plug in the Deltra (you can plug it into a 110 outlet on the TaB!), then connect the positive lead first. -
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Hello Sam, I have to say I am very impressed and grateful for this forum. I will take a picture and forward it to this group. I am still learning how to communicate on a forum so bare with me. After reading some of the inputs, I am beginning to think that my controller is miswired. If I could get a picture of the controller wired correctly that would be very helpful. In addition, nucamp thinking the controller I have is bad did send me Victron. I just got it. I am going to find out if I invalidate my warranty if I could simply install it myself. It just can't be that complicated to swap out the Hp controller for the Victron. So if some one has a picture of the wiring going into the Victron that too would be very helpful.August 16
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Sharon_is_SAMGreat that they sent you the Victron! I doubt that you installing it will invalidate your warranty. Charge controllers are very easy to wire. I will ask the forum for a picture of a factory installed Victron controller. The only picture I found was one that was miswired😀
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fnova5Yes agreed it is great that they did send me the new controller, and I have to agree I see no reason as to why it would invalidate my warranty, but I rather be safe than sorry, so once I get the "ok" from nucamp I'll install the new controller. It does not look all that complicated at all. And a kind member of this forum has been extremely helpful and did send a picture of how he wired his Victron. But it wouldn't hurt to get a picture of a factory installed Victron.
I did validate this weekend that the HP controller was in fact wired correctly. I traced all of the wires and they do look right. So now I either have a mis-wire at the solar panel or the HP controller is bad. It is interesting to me that I cannot get more technical help from nucamp, and that I am having to do all this trouble shooting with the help of this forum. So again very grateful for this forum, as it has been extremely helpful. -
Sharon_is_SAMMy only advice is to cover your solar panels so the wires are not energized when you work with them!
Regarding technical help, you need to ask the right questions to the right person. Not sure who you have been communicating with, but I am glad the forum members have been helpful!
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We spend time in Colorado in late September early October. How much winterizing would I need to do? The daytime temperatures are pleasant and usually in the 50's to 60's however it does freeze often at night. With the Alde running it seems the problem would be low points under the trailer since the Alde is providing heat on the floor area. So far the coldest we've spent was around 30 degrees with no problem. Just wondering how careful I would need to be to prevent damage. Our trailer is a 2019 320S Boondock EdgeJuly 26-
Sharon_is_SAMYou are correct that the Alde keeps above the floor, internal plumbing from freezing and those items at risk are the fresh water tank and drain, the fresh water tank outlet, the shower trap, and the black and gray tanks and valves. I think that how long the freezing temperature is sustained is certainly a factor especially when it comes to large amounts of fluid in your tanks - they take a while to freeze. However, the valves, p-traps, and outlets are another story. While I can't tell you exactly how low you can safely go, I can tell you what you can easily do to help prevent damage. When we had our CSS out in Utah in March, nights that we expected freezing temperature we would put antifreeze down the shower P-trap and in the empty gray and black tanks in order to get the antifreeze around the outlet valves. If your tanks are in use, another way to handle the gray/black tank valves is to spray antifreeze into the mechanism in addition to putting antifreeze down the tanks. Regarding the outlet and drain of the fresh tank, you can't do much about the outlets - if they freeze, they may crack. Only advice is to not try to manipulate the drain stopcock valve if you suspect it is frozen. Remember to keep the bathroom door open to get warm air in there and also, leave the cabinet door under the sink open.
This has been discussed on the forum. Try searching "Winter use" and see what you find.
Good luck! -
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Hi I wanted to inquire further about your comment : "With the 7 pin connected to your TaB, isolate the battery (remove your battery fuse), start your TV, then turn on a light in the TaB. If the light comes on, you have a charge line. Turn off your TV. If the light goes out, you have an isolation relay in the TV. If the light stays on, no isolation relay."
I rarely participate in forums so I am not sure how to best respond to peoples individual comments. What is an "isolation relay in the TV"? ThanksJuly 5 -
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Good pic of Hate and his tractor towing my red [email protected]!June 23
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