Fording a stream.. how deep would you say NO

DigitalSorceress

I've got a 320 S Boondock Edge.. the event I'm going to in Western PA has a stream I need to ford.. the ford is usually max 6" deep (they put rocks down to shallow it out" but it's running high.. May be 18" deep .. My T@B has clearance enough that the floor wouldn't be under water if I went through, but this seems iffy.. I'm thinking I need to call it if I need to go through much more than 12"

Was wondering if others with 320 Boondocks had any experience /advice about the deepest water they've crossed/would be willing to cross.

I'm in no danger of it being whisked away (or I wouldn't cross at all) .. it's just how deep is too deep?

Verna

If the water is going to touch your underside of the R@B. I would say no. You have invested too while much money, time and effort to waste all of it to mildew, mold and water damage. 

I did drive through 10” to 12” of rushing water this summer after a torrential downpour after a thunderstorm, but I do have a 400 with more clearance. It was one of those do it or stay and get stranded and swept away situations. 

DigitalSorceress

@Verna thanks. I thought the 320s Boondock would actually have more clearance than a 400.. 400's look like they have less but maybe that is just due to them being bigger so the scale is different...

Yeah I'm going to avoid water deeper than the floor which looks to be < 18"   but realistically going to avoid it if it's > 12

Verna

@DigitalSorceress, I have the 400 Boondock Lite which is higher. 17” is what I just measured to the bottom of the floor, 

klenger

My limit would be the height or the T@B tire sidewall (up to the rim).   I suppose you could go up to the axle, but hubs need servicing when submerged in water (see instructions for boat trailer axles) .  Also remember the brakes are electric on the T@B.  Again, on boat trailers they use surge brakes for that purpose.

jkjenn

klenger said:

 Also remember the brakes are electric on the T@B.  Again, on boat trailers they use surge brakes for that purpose.

Yup....and the water could be higher since it seems to never stop raining, here!!

Also remember the junction box for electrical connections sits pretty low. I honestly would not ford over 6" if you can avoid it because you will get a small wake, even if you go slow. Also, you have to go slow enough to minimize the wake yet fast enough to not get stuck and that is where you kick up water into unwanted places.

dCliffhanger

I think I am carefully more adventurous in what I may take on with my new Boondock T@b. I hope to have it follow me wherever my Jeep Trailhawk will go which, conservatively is 20".  I'm not going to worry about intermittently submerging any 12 volt circuitry, or brakes or axles\bearings as they get soaked in the rain routinely. I'll certainly check afterwards for issues and if anything starts to act up, I'll service it. My biggest concern would be water coming up through the floor. I've been impressed at how good a job of sealing nucamp has done caulking (almost) all floor penetrations.  But, I assume if I were to get that deep some small amount of water is going to seep up and I'll be sure to check everywhere and soak it up then let it air out to dry. I don't plan on getting deep enough for it to float - but I'd bet it would! I don't expect this to be a routine scenario, only "as needed".

Cbusguy

There is a huge difference between water being sprayed from the road while traveling and being submerged while fording a creek or river.    

Of course I am not the one who will have to pay the price for any miscalculation.

N7SHG_Ham

My limit is below the hubs, well below, so maybe 6" of water max unless a life or death situation during an evacuation.

dCliffhanger

Cbusguy said:

There is a huge difference between water being sprayed from the road while traveling and being submerged while fording a creek or river.    

Of course I am not the one who will have to pay the price for any miscalculation.

I do concur to some degree Cbusguy. However, I've had many a boat trailer in the water totally submerged, twice a day, probably for longer periods than a typical trailer crossing would be. I know I've packed the bearings with a different more water resistant grease.  I'm going to explore whether there's any negatives to using it on the T@B. Same applies to 12 volt wiring. Sometimes the lights fill up. Let them drain. Brakes, dry them out before you might need to use them.  My T@B is a substantial investment for me. But, I wouldn't let some more frequent maintenance expenses keep me from exploring as far as I can get my unit to go.  As I said earlier, I do have concern about the floor. I think it is a sandwich of waterproof plastic layers with what appears to be a fibrous, likely absorbent, material in between that I would assume is not, and probably could not, be 100% sealed.

gulfarea

There is a big difference between fresh and salt water when it comes to electrical connections. Running in salt water on a beach is sure different than crossing a fresh water stream. Art

Cbusguy

The other thing to consider is the 2020s have two big holes in the floor now and the fix for the over heating is to remove the louvers grill and cover it with hardware cloth.....so entry and exit angles maybe a problem

dCliffhanger

gulfarea said:

There is a big difference between fresh and salt water when it comes to electrical connections. Running in salt water on a beach is sure different than crossing a fresh water stream. Art

My T@B definitely will Not be put into contact with saltwater. I do draw the line there. It may as well be acid.

dCliffhanger

Cbusguy said:

The other thing to consider is the 2020s have two big holes in the floor now and the fix for the over heating is to remove the louvers grill and cover it with hardware cloth.....so entry and exit angles maybe a problem

That's what I have. I appreciate you highlighting that issue! I don't know what impact there would be if I backwashed a significant amount of water into either the ac intake or exhaust.  I suppose could rig a cover over both with some kind of waterproof gasket. My inverter is also mounted on the floor and I wouldn't want that to get submerged. I wouldn't want any of the mechanicals, the Alde or AC or Converter to actually suffer any submersion.  I think a "little rivulet" might be ok but not a flood.

Cbusguy

I have been under mine a couple of times looking for better solutions.  While I am less worried about fording creeks or Rivers.   The thought of hours if highway travel in heavy rain is of concern.  Hitting highway ponds at speed will give a large splash.

My initial thought is to use household magnetic duct covers
https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Magnetic-Industrial-Magnets-Sidewall/dp/B0756RJFB6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=industrial+magnetic+duct+covers&qid=1563935412&s=gateway&sr=8-2.   

I am not sure if the grills are magnetic or not but the hardware cloth should be.   Cut to size should reduce water and dust infiltration.   Reduce as the intent was not a seal

It might not be an issue.  Who knows at this point

DigitalSorceress

My own scenario is a known ford location I've crossed (without a trailer) a dozen times a year about 21 out of the last 24 years...  it's a small stream that usually has water only up to about 6" deep and the ford has cobble stones put there by the property owners for the purpose of vehicle crossing.

Given the feedback I am not going to worry too much if it's a one time quick dip below the floor decking.. and I take it slow.. here;s hoping its < 12" and the whole worry was moot (since I think I'm quite comfortable up to a foot of water for the one crossing)