Flexible Solar Install

GatorEgg

I've scanned the forum but didn't find the answer.  I'm in the planning stages of my flexible solar install on my 320 Boondock.  I've done multiple solar installs on my and friends boats.  So solar is not new to me.  Just the particulars of T@b installs are. 

  How are the cables run from panel on roof?  Are they tucked under the plastic trim?  I assume 3M VHB is used to attach panels.  Any recommendations best place to mount controller?

Thanks.

Bayliss

@GatorEgg, I do not have solar on my 320 S, but I took these photos of the solar connection on another 2019 320 S in December 2018.  I believe the wires run down the hidden area behind the wall where the TV is mounted.  Others who have solar likely have better photos, or other methods of connection, but these may be of some help to you.  I think the biggest issue is making sure you properly locate where to screw the panels into the aluminum framing/rafters across the roof.  Others have posted photos of the framing and measurements of the distance between the rafters (8", I believe) on this forum.  Maybe search for "solar roof mount," "factory photos," or "roof framing."

pthomas745

Here is the post that has a description of the complete trailer "frame" of the roof that Bayliss might be mentioning. Toward the end of the discussion there are examples of the parts needed to thread the wiring directly through the roof.  (I think this is one of the great mods....)

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/4971/t-b-solar-panel-roof-mount-with-tilt-able-brackets-mod-for-under-300/p1

Denny16

If you get the NuCamp solar panels, they seem to be glued down with an adhesive material, no screws or holes, my TaB400 factory panels have no screws in them.
cheers

N7SHG_Ham

Yes factory or at least for 2019 on has no mechanical fasteners, probably VHB tape. The wires go through roof with no wiring visible on outside of roof. On the 400's at least they drop down at rear of wardrobe (or behind fridge with large fridge option) and end up under the bunk where the charge controller is mounted.

This makes an extremely clean install, but is going to require puncturing the roof skin.

GatorEgg

Yes, the flexible panels are attached without mechanical fasteners probably VHB tape.  I’m mostly concerned with wire routing.  Found a waterproof controller at Renogy so I’m down to how to run the cabling from panels down to battery box.  And how many panels I want.  I had almost 500 watts on our boat.  I just need a little bit for the T@b.

digitaldean

I'm in the process of using Eternabond 2-sided tape to mount 2-100w flex panels to the roof of my 2018 320s Boondock, and I'm going to run wires into my custom battery box on the hitch (not through the roof). Hopefully I can route the wires in the roof trim, otherwise, I'll run them beside the trim a black wire loom or something like that. My Victron MPPT 100/20 Bluetooth smart controller is in front box as well, but wherever your controller is, you need to have wires connected to the battery so something needs to run into the trailer. In my case it'll be the battery monitor line and display. I'll send some photos and a description of my install when it's done. Parts include the latest Renogy 100w flex panels, Victron BVW712 battery monitor with shunt, Victron MPPT 100/20 smart charge controller with Bluetooth, 30A breaker, disconnect, and extra charge line for my portable fridge and boat battery. I learned so much from this forum, and had communications with NuCamp themselves, and AM Solar (Victron). What a journey.

Mooree

I was puzzled about this Renogy flexible solar panel. Some buyers report solar panel failure after only four months, while others say their system lasted several years. But, it doesn't let me down. It has unbeatable flexibility, capable of producing a 248-degree arc. Most flexible solar panels can only bend at a maximum of 30 degrees. This capability makes this solar panel the ideal solution for deep-angled surfaces.

tphaggerty

I have 2 Renogy 175W solar panels on my 2018 400. I used 3M VHB tape to attach them to the roof, plus eterna-bond on the front of the panels to prevent any wind lift. I ran my cabling through the plastic trim on the outside to the passenger side bottom and then up through the vent hole that already existed in the bottom of my trailer. I didn’t want to drill a hole through the camper! The panels have been on for about a year and continue to work fine. I have one in the front and one in the back. That isn’t ideal in terms of maximum output, since they are angled differently, but it gives me a better chance to get some sort of production no matter where the vehicle is parked. I find that I get best solar charging when I’m driving! Here in the Northeast, where we camp under trees, solar is definitely a hit or miss proposition when you are actually camping.

I put the panels in series to reduce the amount of cabling required, so the panels come in at 24 V and the MPPT controller reduces it to whatever is needed to charge the batteries. I’ve seen up to 20 A of charging, typically 10 to 15A normally.

Denny16

I know of one TaB320 owner that ran his solar panel wires forward under the edge trim then into the battery/propane Tub in the front.  So running the wires in the trim is possible, and if the controller is going to be with the batteries in the TuB, sounds like a good plan.
 Cheers 

Mooree

Mooree said:

I was puzzled about this Renogy flexible solar panel. Some buyers report solar panel failure after only four months, while others say their system lasted several years. But, it doesn't let me down. It has unbeatable flexibility, capable of producing a 248-degree arc. Most flexible solar panels can only bend at a maximum of 30 degrees. This capability makes this solar panel the ideal solution for deep-angled surfaces.

I still recommend these flexible solar panels to anyone who wants a stealthy, super-flexible, and solar-efficient panel for different applications.

mjwaldner

Just keep in mind that what you use to install them will need to be removed someday when the panels die and need to be replaced.

BruceMortland

@mjwaldner, any suggestions for products to use to install that will allow old panels to be removed when they die?

Horigan

I would use 3M clear mounting tape.  Strong enough, but not as strong as VHB tape.  Make sure you leave gaps in the tape at the corners.  To remove VHB, which I used, I would try to snake a stiff fishing line (monofilament) from one corner to the next, then some braided fishing line to saw the tape apart.  First though I would try using a plastic putty knife to separate the tape.