Thanks guys. Sorry for my lack of detailed descriptions.
The fuse that is blowing is the one from the TV battery to my 7 pin. In @Bayliss diagram, I assumed the BLK cable was the 12v coming from the TV battery.
I received the new breakaway cable yesterday, and as soon as I plugged it in the phantom amp draw disappeared. So at least that is figured out.
Now I will have to test to see if that fixes the fuse issue also.
Thanks for letting us know, @elbowwilham. Hopefully, that will resolve it for you. Now all you need is for the Covid-19 to go away, so you can get away.
P.S. @MuttonChops..........very good, and spot-on analysis of what was likely occurring. The drawings were very helpful.
@elbowwilham ; Been thinking on your problem. Have reviewed each posting for details.
- A - Assuming the Fuse that keeps blowing (you remove) is in the Tow Vehicle.
- B - The trailer brakes are on due to Emergency Breakaway Switch being engaged (pin pulled).
- C - This is most likely why the fuse is blowing. Not another short in the trailer.
- D - Expect your trailer brakes themselves are OK. You have been driving without trailer brakes after the fuse blows (or you remove it) as you have been setting the trailer battery cut-off switch to Off when towing.
Diagrams work better for me, so here we go . . . .
Your Ridgeline with U-Haul installed 7-Pin and Curt Echo Controller. How it would look under normal conditions; Trailer Battery On, E-Brake not engaged (pin in).
How You have been towing for the first few minutes before the Ridgeline fuse to 7-Pin blows or you remove it.
Once the fuse blows (or is removed) there is no power to the Curt Echo or trailer. Trailer brakes will not work.
That make sense? Have i captured the issue you are having?
@MuttonChops - it looks like the blog ended before you addressed this scenario. However, this is illustrating what's happening to my camper!
I just purchased the Tab400 Boondock, and the dealership upgraded my 4-pin to a 7-pin on my Jeep Wrangler, and the Bluetooth Echo Break Controller. Made the 1hr+ trip home from the dealership with lights and breaks. However, the Battery Cutt Off fuse was blown when I went to turn on the campers power (I suspect it blew when I was trying to park - I'm inexperienced with towing/parking).
My second trip was a close 20min drive so I could acclimate to the camper, but 10 min into the drive on my way home the break controller stopped working. When I got home I got out to look and I had no parking lights either so I lost the whole connection while driving. I could also smell something burning (maybe the breaks?), hopefully nothing electrical. The Bluetooth Echo system looks like a POS, and extends about 6-8" from the connection point so it might have loosened. I'm not sure what a typical break control system should feel like, but I think it feels a little like I'm dragging, so maybe there's too much intensity per the settings?
Any ideas on next steps I should take? I was thinking a new break controller for my wrangler, but taking it to a shop is $120/hr plus parts so I'd rather either fix it myself, or know what the problem is before towing it there and paying for them to figure it out.
@JacquelineB23 Welcome to the TAB family, they are great trailers.
At this time I cannot provide an idea on what your problem source is . . . I only have questions and general suggestions.
What year/model is your Jeep Wrangler?
What do you mean by TAB 400 "Battery Cut-off Fuse"? Fuse (position XZY) on the Power Center Fuse Panel or ? ?
Did the folks that installed the 4-pin to 7-pin convertor provide any installation/equipment documentation. For example how did they connect and fuse the +12V for the 7-pin. Did your Jeep require an extra electronics black box (you would have been charged for it) as part of the conversion.
In general you could check:
-=- (a) Jeep Fuse Box for all "trailer" fuses . . . typical Jeeps do fuse the 4-pin circuits
-=- (b) Is your TAB electric brake "break away cable/pin" correctly installed; i.e. the 'pin' in the box
-=- (c) Consider jacking up a trailer wheel and hand rotating the wheel/tire.
does it rotate, there will be some drag but it should rotate without great effort.
-=- If (b) and (c) are okay . . . tow trailer without the Curt plugged in {no electric brakes}
how does it "feel" towing and stopping
Then install the Curt Controller and do another short towing test.
What was different . . . .
'18 320 S, pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller Adventures: 54Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
@MuttonChops I don't know how they installed anything besides the photos I took below. It's a 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. I wasn't charged for the installation of another box, but if my vehicle required it I'm surprised they didn't suggest that. I reached out to their shop and haven't heard back. I did take some photos. From my research, the installation of the 7 pin looks incorrect. I can't think of a reason why there'd be a severed wire (blue).
I checked the break pin and it looked good!
The photos attached show the battery disconnect in the camper, and the 4 to 7 pin connections. Also, the wire that runs from the 7 pin to the engine. My biggest question to the dealership is that blue wire that's not connected to anything, but would that cause a fuse in the camper to blow?
First, the 7-pin & Brakes. I'm not sure your issue can be resolved using written communication . . . suggest you schedule a visit to the dealer that installed the vehicle 7-pin and have them verify their work, the Curt Echo, and your trailer.
The attached PDF file has comments on a few of your pictures, all of which look normal.
Second, 2015 Jeep Wrangler. Are you aware that year/model has a 3,500# max tow rating with 350# tongue weight.
Current production TAB 400's 'from the factory' (no fluids, no propane, no personal stuff) have a weight of 2911# an a 399# tongue weight. Which does not leave you with much trailer load capacity for the Jeep's tow rating and the TAB 400 is already over the recommended tongue weight. Depending on you planned towing/camping you could be facing uncomfortable, stressful on you and the Jeep, towing which would become dangerous in an emergency situation.
@MuttonChops the 2021 Tab400 Boondock has a dry weight of 2,876, which leaves just a little under 20% of total tow capacity for additional weight. Tongue weight of the 2021 is 318. It's close, but still reasonable if you're cautious. That's another reason why a functioning break controller is so important!
Comments
The fuse that is blowing is the one from the TV battery to my 7 pin. In @Bayliss diagram, I assumed the BLK cable was the 12v coming from the TV battery.
I received the new breakaway cable yesterday, and as soon as I plugged it in the phantom amp draw disappeared. So at least that is figured out.
Now I will have to test to see if that fixes the fuse issue also.
Thanks again.
P.S. @MuttonChops..........very good, and spot-on analysis of what was likely occurring. The drawings were very helpful.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
I just purchased the Tab400 Boondock, and the dealership upgraded my 4-pin to a 7-pin on my Jeep Wrangler, and the Bluetooth Echo Break Controller. Made the 1hr+ trip home from the dealership with lights and breaks. However, the Battery Cutt Off fuse was blown when I went to turn on the campers power (I suspect it blew when I was trying to park - I'm inexperienced with towing/parking).
My second trip was a close 20min drive so I could acclimate to the camper, but 10 min into the drive on my way home the break controller stopped working. When I got home I got out to look and I had no parking lights either so I lost the whole connection while driving. I could also smell something burning (maybe the breaks?), hopefully nothing electrical. The Bluetooth Echo system looks like a POS, and extends about 6-8" from the connection point so it might have loosened. I'm not sure what a typical break control system should feel like, but I think it feels a little like I'm dragging, so maybe there's too much intensity per the settings?
Any ideas on next steps I should take? I was thinking a new break controller for my wrangler, but taking it to a shop is $120/hr plus parts so I'd rather either fix it myself, or know what the problem is before towing it there and paying for them to figure it out.
Thanks for your help!
Welcome to the TAB family, they are great trailers.
At this time I cannot provide an idea on what your problem source is . . . I only have questions and general suggestions.
What year/model is your Jeep Wrangler?
What do you mean by TAB 400 "Battery Cut-off Fuse"?
Fuse (position XZY) on the Power Center Fuse Panel or ? ?
Did the folks that installed the 4-pin to 7-pin convertor provide any installation/equipment documentation. For example how did they connect and fuse the +12V for the 7-pin. Did your Jeep require an extra electronics black box (you would have been charged for it) as part of the conversion.
In general you could check:
-=- (a) Jeep Fuse Box for all "trailer" fuses . . . typical Jeeps do fuse the 4-pin circuits
-=- (b) Is your TAB electric brake "break away cable/pin" correctly installed; i.e. the 'pin' in the box
-=- (c) Consider jacking up a trailer wheel and hand rotating the wheel/tire.
does it rotate, there will be some drag but it should rotate without great effort.
-=- If (b) and (c) are okay . . . tow trailer without the Curt plugged in {no electric brakes}
how does it "feel" towing and stopping
Then install the Curt Controller and do another short towing test.
What was different . . . .
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
I checked the break pin and it looked good!
The photos attached show the battery disconnect in the camper, and the 4 to 7 pin connections. Also, the wire that runs from the 7 pin to the engine. My biggest question to the dealership is that blue wire that's not connected to anything, but would that cause a fuse in the camper to blow?
First, the 7-pin & Brakes.
I'm not sure your issue can be resolved using written communication . . . suggest you schedule a visit to the dealer that installed the vehicle 7-pin and have them verify their work, the Curt Echo, and your trailer.
The attached PDF file has comments on a few of your pictures, all of which look normal.
Second, 2015 Jeep Wrangler.
Are you aware that year/model has a 3,500# max tow rating with 350# tongue weight.
Current production TAB 400's 'from the factory' (no fluids, no propane, no personal stuff) have a weight of 2911# an a 399# tongue weight. Which does not leave you with much trailer load capacity for the Jeep's tow rating and the TAB 400 is already over the recommended tongue weight. Depending on you planned towing/camping you could be facing uncomfortable, stressful on you and the Jeep, towing which would become dangerous in an emergency situation.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780