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Air8 performance

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    tepe50tepe50 Member Posts: 37
    I trust NuCamp will do the right thing. Because every issue I’ve had they have  handled immediately. Except this one which has been around for awhile. makes me think that’s a little more complex.  
    2020 tab 400 BDL & 2013 siver shadow 5x10
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    I think I set the temp to 66 but certainly a lower value than it could achieve. The fan is set to the automatic speed control position. I tuned it on again today in full sun, it was earlier this morning and internal temperature as per Alde display was 87. When I went out at 1:30 (still full sun) to take a nap and watch a movie with my eyes closed it was 76 as per the Alde with an outside temp of 91 and a real feel of 94.  That I am okay with, in fact it is far superior to our previous 320S with the 5K Danby as mentioned in other posts. The 320S wasn't tolerable in direct sun during the day, if you could cool it to 90 degrees it was doing an exceptional job.

    Of course everyone is already aware that with the temp sensor located inside the cold air return that it does not provide an accurate reading but the real handicap is that if the unit cycles off that it will not turn back on because of the insulation around the Air8 unit and the inability to accurately measure the air temperature.

    There are only 2 ways I am aware of to get it t cycle back on.

    1. Set the temperature to a lower value than what would ever be considered normal (after all, who sets their home AC to 66 or lower)
    2. Change the operation to fan only to draw air over the sensor so it can get an actual reading of the internal temperature and then turn it back to air conditioning.

    I believe in my case that having a temperature sensor that is located properly will help my situation (and most others). You would be able to set the temperature goal the same as we are used to with everything else and get proper control responses. I also believe that by providing proper control, that almost everyone would be satisfied with their current air conditioning unit. However, like everyone else I will gladly accept the alleged unit that is forthcoming with an additional 1K BTU's. 

    From the manufacturers perspective, having the temp sensor on the inlet makes for a simpler installation. But obviously it isn't well thought out on actual functionality. It may be due to the thought that during design that the fan would not cycle off when the refrigeration unit does and in fact in other installations it may run the fan continuously. By other installations, I am referring to the fact that this unit wasn't made specifically for NuCamp. There wouldn't be enough units purchased by NuCamp in the next 50 years to justify the design and manufacturing costs associated without the unit being way over priced.

    Things that I believe would help.

    1. Having an actual "manual" that wasn't written by a 5 year old that has accurate instructions, descriptions, and screen shots of the control head. However, working as an engineer using Japanese and Korean suppliers, it is typical of what they produce for literature. After all, English is not their first language and I actually I believe that Elwell should be accountable as the importer and reseller for not demanding or producing a better written manual.

    2. Having a control head that has an internal temperature sensor like most everything else that is used for temperature control.

    In fact, I have a difficult time understanding why this simple fix hasn't been taken care of long before I bought the 2020 in March, but then again I purchased knowing that there were issues with sensor location and potential sizing issues with the refrigeration unit itself. In reality, this should be able to be addressed with 2 parts (or less), a new control head with an internal temp sensor and a replacement circuit board for the Air8 unit. They may even be able to get by with a circuit board modification and firmware change. From a cost standpoint of manufacturing, I can't imagine more than $100 to $200 maximum. This has been an issue long before the Pandemic ever appeared, so I am not as tolerant of a "we are working on it" excuse.

    If they (Elwell) keep dragging their feet on the relocation of the temperature sensor, I will fix it myself. It isn't rocket science.

    The reason I haven't so far is I don't want to "modify" anything that already has a know issue to provide them (Elwell) with a loophole to deny any warranty repairs.Plus, it would be a pain in the butt to move the sensor to the control panel area. Whereas when they release the fix, I suspect that part of it will be a plug and play head and either the circuit board modification to compensate for the removed sensor input or replacing the board as mentioned earlier in my "novel".

    I hope this helps others to be better informed or better understand some of the issues at hand, if not well thanks for reading my first novel.

    Regards,

    Brad


    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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    tepe50tepe50 Member Posts: 37
    @Dutch061 That pretty much sums it up
    2020 tab 400 BDL & 2013 siver shadow 5x10
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    TNOutbackTNOutback Member Posts: 633
    @Dutch061 I was told by Elwell in mid-January the sensor relocation kit would be sent to dealers “in about two weeks”.  Five months later . . . 
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    AirBossAirBoss Member Posts: 740
    @Dutch061
    Yep...sums it up pretty well, indeed. 

    Like you, I'm not inclined to mod this thing while we know OEM issues are TBD. Let them do their thing. But to your point, it's been quite some time from what I understand. I only puchased in Dec 19 and have four trips under my belt so no doubt others are in a better position to crank up the heat on Elwell, but I intend to be a very squeeky wheel. 

    Frankly, the manual is good for one thing...starting a campfire. 

    2020 T@B 400 "OTTO" (build date 08/19)
    Factory Victron Solar; Norcold 3-way fridge
    '04 Chevy Tahoe Z71 DinoKiller
    San Diego, CA
    www.airbossone.com
    https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/owen-ashurst/shop


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    MarcelineMarceline Member Posts: 1,503
    AirBoss said:
    Well...true to form.

    Outside ambient temp is 93. Vented the 400 this AM before turing on the Air8, which has been running on High (consistently) for 4.5 hours. Roof vent cracked, updated grills on intake and exhaust vents and deflector installed on exhaust vent. Reflectix on a three large acrylic windows since  efore turning on Air8

    Inside temp 85 degrees, plus or minus. Air8 has not stopped running.

    According  to Elwell ( on the phone with them today) they expect to have the Air8 Plus out in July/Aug. It will only add 1000BTU'S to the output ( up to 7500BTU). 

    Seriously doubt that will cut the mustard as thats only about  2/3 the output of the Cool Cat. 

    Time will tell. I hope nuCamp looks at this real hard. Seems to me a retro-fit back to the Dometic may be in order. 

    No doubt this is is NOT a shock to those with a 400/Air8 combo. 
    Interesting experiment. If the Elwell is pumping out a steady 50deg per @tepe50 and you have your windows covered and the roof vent cracked I would have thought that there would be enough cool air + convection to cool off the trailer. I know this sounds like a crazy idea, but how about setting the roof vent fan to exhaust on the lowest setting? Maybe a low fan would push warmer air out and help drag cooler air upwards? 
    San Francisco Bay Area
    2013 CS-S us@gi
    Battered but trusty 3.5l V6 Hyundai Santa Fe
    2015 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner Double Cab
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    AirBossAirBoss Member Posts: 740
    @Marceline. Yep, that's what I did. Roof vent opened just enough to run the fan on low. Should have mentioned that. My bust...

    As the day progressed I doubt the A/C was blowing at 50deg and I could actually sense later in PM that the temp of the A/C air coming from the vents had increased. It was barely cool. 

    That said, I also had the A/C fan on high. I now understand that the lower setting may be more beneficial. I'll being doing that next time.

    I'm no HVAC guru but recently did a bit of research on cooling BTU's required for particular airspace. Used two different calculators and basically found that it takes approx. 6800BTU's to cool an airspace with good insulation, 150sf, 7ft ceiling on a hot day in full sun "adequately" (whatever that means). Given the current Air 8 is rated at 6000BTU's (+/-) it is clearly in the "I think I can, I think I can" mode.  

    Maybe the new Air 8 Plus and relocating the temp sensor will get us there. Dunno. It's a first world problem to be sure...and I have no plans to camp in the Mojave this summer! 

    Confident Elwell and nuCamp will get this right to the greatest degree possible.  
    2020 T@B 400 "OTTO" (build date 08/19)
    Factory Victron Solar; Norcold 3-way fridge
    '04 Chevy Tahoe Z71 DinoKiller
    San Diego, CA
    www.airbossone.com
    https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/owen-ashurst/shop


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    MarcelineMarceline Member Posts: 1,503
    Well I am plum out of ideas then @AirBoss. Except I suppose that you could just drag your trailer north where we have civilized temperatures. 😄
    San Francisco Bay Area
    2013 CS-S us@gi
    Battered but trusty 3.5l V6 Hyundai Santa Fe
    2015 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner Double Cab
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    AirBossAirBoss Member Posts: 740
    @Marceline...believe me. That's been kickin' around in my head for a while! 

    It's not the end of the world and still enjoying the heck outta this thing! 
    2020 T@B 400 "OTTO" (build date 08/19)
    Factory Victron Solar; Norcold 3-way fridge
    '04 Chevy Tahoe Z71 DinoKiller
    San Diego, CA
    www.airbossone.com
    https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/owen-ashurst/shop


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