Why I won't run my fridge on LP whole driving

ChanW

I've found the specs for the 12v power draw (in the manual - fancy that):

DC Operation -- 12 volts DC voltage

Power Used
11.7 Amps @ 12 volts DC

13.6 Amps @ 14 volts DC

twocutes

Jenn - could you post a link to the remote thermometer you bought?

wizard1880

Just a thought, if you have the CS model with the 12v/120v model, it's compressor-based, and only draws 5-6 amps when its running.  This should be handled easily by the charge wire in the trailer hookup.

jkjenn

The Jeep, with no trailer attached gets between 13.79-14.00 just idling in the driveway. The fridge on battery, shows below 12.0 (can't remember) on the cigarette lighter voltmeter, and about 12.18-12.25 when connected to the Jeep idling, and the fridge is on its coldest setting. That is pretty close to the 11.7 Chan cited. The Jeep is probably putting out slightly higher voltage when it is on the highway, but, not enough to overcome the usage. Is there likely a variance in the numbers in the manual for the Norcold?

I don't see myself putting money into upgrading the alternator, at this time. I will likely be doing what PXLated does. The ability to run the Norcold on propane makes it valuable enough for me to work around this issue, for now. It does a great job on propane.

SweetlyHome

I have been following this and similar threads with interest.  The next time I camp I plan on taking voltage measurements as Jen has done.  What I want to also check is the voltage at the TV battery when the Norcold is running.  If there is much of a difference between the TV and the T@B indicates the wire from the TV battery to the connector at the hitch is too small.

jkjenn

Beth, it just arrived sonorant vouch for it, yet, but in the Amazon reviews several folks were pleased with it for monitoring their RV fridge. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QJVU78?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

ChanW

Jenn, I was talking 11.7 amps, not volts....

What you're seeing, 12.1V-12.3V in the Tab, while at idle,  might not be unreasonable. What it reads in the Tab at higher rpm is what matters most, as well as the voltage drop between the TV battery and the 7 pin connector.

You probably should look for 13-13.5V (or higher) at the 7pin (with the Tab hooked up and the fridge running) when at higher RPMs. It probably won't be that high when idling though.