Installing Battery Monitor By Door on 400

manyman297

Of all the mods I’m getting ready for (once we get our 400) the battery monitor is high up on my list. My question is how difficult is it to run the wiring from the battery to the front door location where all of the other control panels are? I could more easily install it by the bed but my OCD demands that it be next to all of the other panels. 

pthomas745

The battery monitors with bluetooth capability will save your OCD from going into overdrive. The bluetooth phone apps make the displays (and the effort to run the wiring) redundant.

My OCD, however, makes me enjoy checking the app more often than I ever imagined!

Deb55

Well OCD aside, when we had ours installed the put it right outside the closet door next to the bed area. It was a much easier installation so it saved us some money (we had it installed at NuCamp when they did our solar at the same time). It's pretty unobtrusive, and I always use the app on my phone anyway, so I don't even notice it. We only had the physical monitor installed in case something went wrong with the app, and to have it visible for eventual resale. I might be wrong, but I thought I read somewhere that the closer to the battery it is, the more accurate it is. Someone who knows more than I do can correct me if I'm wrong. 

manyman297

pthomas745 said:

The battery monitors with bluetooth capability will save your OCD from going into overdrive. The bluetooth phone apps make the displays (and the effort to run the wiring) redundant.

My OCD, however, makes me enjoy checking the app more often than I ever imagined!

This is my 2nd option but it does bother me to have a perfectly usable display locked away under the bed. 

manyman297

Deb55 said:

Well OCD aside, when we had ours installed the put it right outside the closet door next to the bed area. It was a much easier installation so it saved us some money (we had it installed at NuCamp when they did our solar at the same time). It's pretty unobtrusive, and I always use the app on my phone anyway, so I don't even notice it. We only had the physical monitor installed in case something went wrong with the app, and to have it visible for eventual resale. I might be wrong, but I thought I read somewhere that the closer to the battery it is, the more accurate it is. Someone who knows more than I do can correct me if I'm wrong. 

I’ve heard the same as well. I do like just being able to quickly glance at the display vs. launching an app but maybe checking battery status isn’t something that warrants a quick glance constantly. Renogy makes a much cheaper (and more visual) battery monitor for half the price but without Bluetooth. 

Renogy 500A Battery Monitor, High and Low Voltage Programmable Alarm, Voltage Range 10V-120V and up to 500A, Compatible with 12V Lithium Sealed, Gel, Flooded Batteries https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP5B5P7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_DLm6Fb2GC4NFP

Horigan

You could buy the Victron Smart Shunt.  Then you wouldn't have the display under the bed and you'd still have Bluetooth.  I have my display under the bed since the Smart Shunt wasn't available when I bought mine.

Routing the display wiring isn't too difficult.  If you look behind the kitchen sink you'll see a horizontal black PVC pipe that's the conduit for the wires going to the controls next to the door.  Pull the drawers out between the sink and the frig (if installed) to follow the conduit.  Depending on how OCD you are, you can just zip tie the display cable to the outside of the conduit, or try to run it inside the conduit.

manyman297

Horigan said:

You could buy the Victron Smart Shunt.  Then you wouldn't have the display under the bed and you'd still have Bluetooth.  I have my display under the bed since the Smart Shunt wasn't available when I bought mine.

Routing the display wiring isn't too difficult.  If you look behind the kitchen sink you'll see a horizontal black PVC pipe that's the conduit for the wires going to the controls next to the door.  Pull the drawers out between the sink and the frig (if installed) to follow the conduit.  Depending on how OCD you are, you can just zip tie the display cable to the outside of the conduit, or try to run it inside the conduit.

Oh wow. Didn’t realize they have that option. Much cheaper too. 

Sounds easy enough to route the wires...although it is yet another display to mount over in that area. Sounds like once you get your wires to the bed area then things are fairly accessible.

Maybe that smart shunt is the way to go. 

Marceline

manyman297 said:

Horigan said:

You could buy the Victron Smart Shunt.  Then you wouldn't have the display under the bed and you'd still have Bluetooth.  I have my display under the bed since the Smart Shunt wasn't available when I bought mine.

Routing the display wiring isn't too difficult.  If you look behind the kitchen sink you'll see a horizontal black PVC pipe that's the conduit for the wires going to the controls next to the door.  Pull the drawers out between the sink and the frig (if installed) to follow the conduit.  Depending on how OCD you are, you can just zip tie the display cable to the outside of the conduit, or try to run it inside the conduit.

Oh wow. Didn’t realize they have that option. Much cheaper too. 

Sounds easy enough to route the wires...although it is yet another display to mount over in that area. Sounds like once you get your wires to the bed area then things are fairly accessible.

Maybe that smart shunt is the way to go. 

I have a SmartShunt. I got one of the first shipments to the US so I’ve had it for nearly a year. I’m very happy with it. Because there is no wiring to run to a display unit it is extremely easy to install. 

I recommend Bay Marine Supply for knowledgeable, friendly service. 

https://baymarinesupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Smartshunt+

qhumberd

As a cheaper alternative I have just put it n the AILi shunt and monitor 

So far it works great, and I am going to put the monitor on the panel below the television above an outlet that is there. Helps my OCD to not have it in my line of sight during the day, but able to check at night when I get that feeling that I need to see how many amp hours are left😊

pics of my location and information at the thread below 

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/12517/battery-monitor-recommendation-non-solar#latest

qhumberd

@Deb55 the item that needs to be close to the battery negative lead is the shunt itself. The monitor can be anywhere the wire will reach.

Bluetooth ones make that a non issue but my other Bluetooth accessory is a propane monitor that never seems to connect reliably. So I am still ok with a wire.

Sharon_is_SAM

We have the Victron with a Bluetooth dongle.  I like being able to monitor our battery en route as we run the ARB frig on 12v.  Not that the ARB ever requires much, but it is nice to see the performance from the van.

aphillips

We have had the Aili battery monitor in its box for more than a year now and are finally getting ready to install it. Just confirming that we need a short cable connecting the B- side of the shunt to the negative terminal on the battery on the right. And the main black cable currently connected to that terminal needs to move to the P- side of the shunt. Other than the small power wire going to the positive terminal on the left and the communication wire going from the shunt to the monitor, that is it, right?

I'd appreciate information on what specs we need for the jumper wire connecting the negative terminal to the B-side. Is a 1/0 copper cable sufficient? We have the original 1200W/2400W surge inverter that came with our 2022 400 BD if that matters. 

MuttonChops

aphillips said:
. . . Aili battery monitor . . . ready to install it. 
. . . need a short cable connecting the B- side of the shunt to the negative terminal on the battery
. . . main black cable currently connected to that terminal needs to move to the P- side of the shunt.

. . . specs we need for the jumper wire connecting the negative terminal to the B-side.

In short, You are Correct on the wiring.

Note:
A]  the 'short' wire from shunt B- to battery negative side does not have to be short.
      Place the shunt at any location that works for your set-up.
B]  As for the B- Shunt Side wire size/gauge . . . you will be fine using the same size as the trailers
       original ground to battery wire, or if you like one size larger.  They is no need for a giant
       diameter 0/1.

For Reference:

aphillips

Thank you @MuttonChops! The little white wire currently on the negative terminal goes to the Alde. Do I also need to move that to the P- side of the shunt? 

MuttonChops

aphillips said:
. . . white wire currently on the negative terminal goes to the Alde.
Do I also need to move that to the P- side of the shunt? 

Ideally all of the Ground Side Wires for the different DC powered devices should be on the P Side of the Shunt.

For my 320S, with the same Current Monitor installed.
I have a same Bus Bar connected to the P Side, that Bus Bar has all the 'extra' wires that were on my rig's battery ground terminal.

I'm surprised that 'white wire' goes to the Alde.
In general a direct (extra) Alde ground to the battery was a quick-fix for model 3010 [two green fuses on Alde] to reduce the Alde ground side fuse from failing.  Your rig has a model 3020 which eliminated the ground side fuse issue
Are you sure the 'white wire' does not go to a solar controller; that would be more typical.

elbolillo

MuttonChops said:

I'm surprised that 'white wire' goes to the Alde.
In general a direct (extra) Alde ground to the battery was a quick-fix for model 3010 [two green fuses on Alde] to reduce the Alde ground side fuse from failing.  Your rig has a model 3020 which eliminated the ground side fuse issue
Are you sure the 'white wire' does not go to a solar controller; that would be more typical.

Our '23 Tab 400 was also wired with the white from the Alde directly wired to the battery.

aphillips

elbolillo said:

MuttonChops said:

I'm surprised that 'white wire' goes to the Alde.
In general a direct (extra) Alde ground to the battery was a quick-fix for model 3010 [two green fuses on Alde] to reduce the Alde ground side fuse from failing.  Your rig has a model 3020 which eliminated the ground side fuse issue
Are you sure the 'white wire' does not go to a solar controller; that would be more typical.

Our '23 Tab 400 was also wired with the white from the Alde directly wired to the battery.

I just double-checked and ours is the same as yours.

elbolillo

aphillips said:

elbolillo said:

MuttonChops said:

I'm surprised that 'white wire' goes to the Alde.
In general a direct (extra) Alde ground to the battery was a quick-fix for model 3010 [two green fuses on Alde] to reduce the Alde ground side fuse from failing.  Your rig has a model 3020 which eliminated the ground side fuse issue
Are you sure the 'white wire' does not go to a solar controller; that would be more typical.

Our '23 Tab 400 was also wired with the white from the Alde directly wired to the battery.

I just double-checked and ours is the same as yours.

I should add that I upgraded the factory install and connected the white wire from the Alde to the negative bus bar instead of the battery.

Bill&Suze

aphillips said:

elbolillo said:

MuttonChops said:

I'm surprised that 'white wire' goes to the Alde.
In general a direct (extra) Alde ground to the battery was a quick-fix for model 3010 [two green fuses on Alde] to reduce the Alde ground side fuse from failing.  Your rig has a model 3020 which eliminated the ground side fuse issue
Are you sure the 'white wire' does not go to a solar controller; that would be more typical.

Our '23 Tab 400 was also wired with the white from the Alde directly wired to the battery.

I just double-checked and ours is the same as yours.

I checked our '24 T@B 400 and the Alde white wire goes directly to battery negative.