I love the quiet heat of the Alde, and really appreciate that it doesn't use much propane, and even less electricity when boondocking. And after a night of heavy use, the ice columns from the exhaust vent to the ground are beautiful.
But for those who camp at 10F or 0F or below, how warm can you keep the camper? I don't have my air conditioner vent covered, so even with all the windows and ceiling vent closed I still get enough air exchange with the outside to keep condensation to a minimum (bathroom mirror, a little on the windows). My question is that I'm only getting maybe 30-40F degrees warming above ambient at much colder temperatures.
At 20-30F outside, I can hit 65-70F inside pretty easily on just propane. But once it hits 0F, I'm lucky to keep the inside above freezing. Which is an issue for my camping trip water canisters. Kind of hard to boondock in the mountains with no water except reheated snow. I have a warm sleeping bag, but I need to keep the interior above 32F at night, and would rather not add an extra Mr. Buddy heater to do so. I just had to cut short a trip since with this weekend's polar vortex I'd be at -10F to -20F for several nights on the way back to Texas (which is also seeing subzero temperatures this coming week).
I guess I could try adding an exterior sealing air conditioner cover, then crack a side window to see if I get a little warmer, without condensation running amuck. And I could replace the Alde fluid again, but it looks and tests fine on pH and on the refractometer.
I realize this isn't a 40,000 BTU heater, nor is the T@B a 4 season camper. That said, on propane only, what differential are other winter campers in T@B land seeing between outside and inside temperatures when it's 10F or below outside?
2021 Jeep Gladiator, 2021 tiny toy hauler, Austin TX
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
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2018 320S Outback
The T@B is a leaky, lightly insulated shell with a high surface-area-to-volume ratio. At some point, that little boiler and two short convectors are just not going to keep up (something you likely already know given your last comment). It's relatively simple physics--dedicated number crunchers could probably do a passable heat-loss calculation to see if mitigation efforts would even make a dent at those temperatures.
Even in houses, infiltration (leaking) is usually the biggest contributor to heat loss, so plugging those gaps as you suggested should help some. Adding insulation to reduce conductive heat loss would be a bigger challenge.
I realize this doesn't really answer your specific question. I've camped as low as 30F and the Alde (which cycled frequently) easily kept the camper at a toasty (at least to me) 60F. Below those temps I'll trade camping for a more seasonal pursuit. ;-)
I need that much water for a 10 day trip without hookups... with mandatory hot coffee in the mornings. Typically also carry 5 gallons of pink stuff to mix into the gray and black tanks until I can dump at the end of the trip.
Solar wise, I only need 100Wh a day to keep the 12V systems on for lights, the fridge, and charging phones (fridge doesn't use much when camper runs between 35 and 50F each day), and I always get the Victron back to float by noon even with cloudy skies. So if I've had a good 500+Wh winter sun day, that also gives me a couple hours of the baby Honeywell space heater time. Enough to spoil me with a warmed up bathroom before a shower.
But my next & larger camper I suspect will need a mini wood stove for enjoying winter in the mountains. I just saw Slim Potatohead is putting his pellet stove back into his new-to-him eggshell camper.
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@ScottG Those convectors are working as hard as they can, and the back wall is nice and toasty (I sleep sideways on the back of the bench) as is the side bench area. But yup, I only need to double that output at zero out. The best back country powder requires sacrifice I guess.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
https://youtu.be/XLX3ZR2AoLs
Very good to know that even with the windows cracked for humidity control, an aux propane heater can keep the camper warm. Exactly what I wanted to know.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
I'm hoping if the shower is cold, and I don't get a towel wet afterwards, that's not the biggest humidity generator, versus 300mL from just breathing or the liter from the Mr. Buddy.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
2018 320S Outback
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Some time ago I bought a LifeSaver 5 gallon jerry can that filters water. Has a manual pressurizing pump, but also a shower attachment. Place it on the T@B sink, run the shower hose into the wet bath, and Bob's your uncle. Enough water with 15 pumps to do the same wet / soap / rinse a time or two when the T@B is winterized. And the gray tank is reasonably sized for short showers, even if the black tank's a bit small for longer boondocks or full-timing.
I understand that the BLM and NFS 14 day limits were created because that's the time it usually takes before a solo T@B full-timer needs to dump their tanks. Still holding out hope for a next gen T@B that's bigger than the 400, yet T@DA shaped, with fully enclosed larger tanks and valves, and thicker walls for hot summers and -10F winters though.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Draco dormiens numquam titilandus.
I've got another trip into the mountains planned soon... I'll borrow your A/C cover idea and see how much difference it makes just on propane alone.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max