Norcold 3-way Error Codes

Blueespy

Early 2019 t@b 400 BDL with a 3-way Norcold fridge.  Recently, I've been having some power issues.  Just back from a trip and we experienced an error code #6 when the Norcold was on DC power.  When we hook up and power on the TV, my wife switches the Norcold to A and it automatically senses DC power and makes the change.  No issues on the road until we stop for gas etc., and power off the TV.  At that point, the Norcold displays error code 6.  We have to power on the TV, manually turn off the Norcold and then back on where it switches to DC.  Error code only happens when we are connected (trailer to TV) and we turn the TV off.  Tried switching to LP and now we get an error code 3.  Have bled the LP lines so we're confident there is no air in the lines.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Michigan_Mike

Google is your friend!  😉👍🏻

https://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-technical-blog/norcold-fault-codes-li-op-o-or-6-flashes-potential-fire-hazard/

AirBoss

Presumption is your batteries are at full strength. Wasn't clear on whether the fridge runs properly 12V DC and LP when not connected to the TV? No fault codes when on shore power? 

Instead of selecting "A" on the power source have you tried switching to the battery icon itself?  Not saying it will make a difference but curious if you get the same results. 

Find the model number and do a search for fault codes on the Norcold site for your model. Serial plate should be located in upper area of right side panel of fridge interior.

It does sound like a power board issue.   

Blueespy

My apologizes, runs perfectly on shore power and on battery when not connected to the truck.  As for LP, getting an error code 3 there so I'm definitely thinking the issue is with the Norcold.  Problem is finding a local place to get it serviced.  As for selection, we get the error when both selecting A and selecting battery. 

Blueespy

AirBoss said:

Presumption is your batteries are at full strength. Wasn't clear on whether the fridge runs properly 12V DC and LP when not connected to the TV? No fault codes when on shore power? 

Instead of selecting "A" on the power source have you tried switching to the battery icon itself?  Not saying it will make a difference but curious if you get the same results. 

Find the model number and do a search for fault codes on the Norcold site for your model. Serial plate should be located in upper area of right side panel of fridge interior.

It does sound like a power board issue.   

Our Norcold works perfectly on short power or LP and while it runs when connected to the TV and the TV running, as soon as the TV is turned off, the fridge flashes error code 7 which deals with DC power.  We've upgraded to lithium batteries, had the Norco power board checked and it's working and finally installed a DC to DC convertor.  Our TV is a 2020 Ford F-150 and the computer doesn't provide sufficient power through the 7-pin to charge the batteries thus the reason for the DC to DC controller.  Problem is the fridge will still not run on DC and the only thing I think we have left to change is to remove a wire a mobile tech installed on the fridge that he ran up to the junction box to the 7-pin.  My plan is to remove that wire when I bring the trailer home but was wondering if you've had any issues with your Norco?

Blueespy

UPDATE - Problem solved.  Wanted to update this thread.  Quick refresher, since switching TOW vehicles, we have been unable to get our Norcold 3-way to run solely on DC (battery).  At one point last year we had the circuit board replaced.  During that process, the tech installed a "blue" wire from the circuit board to a hot wire for the driving lights on the trailer.  Told us our Norcold was designed to work on DC while connected to our TOW and with our TOW running lights on, but it wasn't intended to run solely on DC (I knew this was wrong).  In Oct of this year, while at a FAMCAMP, on the morning of our departure I noticed the status lights on our Surge Protector were off.  I knew we had power as our AC was on so I became suspicious our Surge Protector was damaged. Same morning while preparing to move, the Norcold displayed numerous errors.  Nothing worked except on shore power.  Tried to speak to a Norcold rep but was told they couldn't talk to me, they could only talk to an authorized Norcold service tech.  I contacted a local Mom and Pop RV service center we've used and they agreed to look at our Norcold.  They suspected it was a circuit board issue so ordered a new one.  On later inspection (I had confirmed the fuses I could see were good) the tech removed the circuit board and found a fuse on the inside was bad and had in fact burnt the circuit board where it attached.  The tech "suspected" the fuse had been bad for some time but the incident at the FAMCAMP that destroyed our Surge Protector was probably the reason for the burnt area on the board.  He installed a new circuit board but did not reinstall the "blue" wire from the previous tech service.  Tried to run on DC and the Norcold would run for about 9 mins then error code 7.  Multiple calls to Norcold (we were on speaker phone and not once did Norcold ask any info to verify our tech was actually a tech.  All our tech said was his name was >>>>>> and he worked for >>>>>.  According to Norcold, our circuit board is the new model and they are having hundreds of complaints (mainly from Europe) that once installed, these new boards are showing error code 7.  It's a design issue so many techs are having to come up with work arounds.  I won't go into all of these as my tech tried one and still no luck.  So, as we are both just looking at the circuit board the tech turns to me and says "now, what was this blue wire for?".  We discuss the previous service and with no other options, he reconnects the blue wire to the DC input on the board.  I start the TOW vehicle and turn on the lights and magic, it works.  I have to run the lights anyway to power our backup camera so no biggie.  However, if we stop for a break and turn the TOW off, the Norcold doesn't auto switch to DC battery.  Tech cuts the blue and reattaches to a power coming direct from the DC batteries.  (I'm sure there was more tech term to this but my eyes were glazing over) and magic again.  Norcold works on DC.  I'm sure this might be confusing and someone smarter than me will see an easier solution but in the end it took a new circuit board and a wire from the DC input on the board to a DC hot wire.  There are safe guards - fuses so no concerns.  The wire was necessary due to the circuit board design and not detecting sufficient DC power when in fact there was plenty.

MuttonChops

@Blueespy , Good news that things are working.  Thanks for the follow-up.

From your comments it sounds like your rig has the Norcold N4000 series 3-way.

I suspect the " Blue Wire " the techs modified is connected to the Engine Run+ signal.

Some 3-way Fridge rigs have a small black toggle switch above the Fridge (not labeled) to turn the Engine Run signal on/off . . . . that way one can drive the TV without having the Fridge automatically switching to high 12VDC Current " DC operation mode ".

Norcold N4000 has three +12VDC inputs to the control board;
    Engine Run(ning),   12VDC Low current (control board power),   12VDC High current (DC Heaters)