I just learned that the USB receptacles in the bed cubby do not work unless the inverter is on. I'd like to charge my phone here overnight but I don't want to run the inverter while boondocking since it's such a power hog. Has anyone rewired the USB part of this outlet to run straight off the battery rather than via the inverter (or installed an extra battery-powered USB here?). I'm confused why this would be wired up via the inverter - there doesn't seem to be a logical reason for it..
Edit: seems that the combo AC/USB outlet itself takes 120V from the inverter (or shore power) as its input - I'd need to wire up a separate USB receptacle, probably tapping into the 12V coming into the light switch in the cubby. Which brings up the next question - anyone know how to remove that switch?
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You state that your bedside cubby USB receptacles do not work unless the inverter is on. Are you really referring to the electric converter on the trailer, the dark colored box that contains the trailer fuses? I’m guessing you found this out (the USB port wasn’t working) while the trailer was on shore power too. Make sure the battery shutoff switch is on too so the trailer is powered up. The USB ports run off the battery and if you do have an inverter (that provides 110 volts) that wouldn’t provide power to the USB ports anyway. Hopefully things get restored but I’m guessing your trailer “on/off” switch at the battery is in the off position.
@pthomas745 my phone has a honkin' battery and can take 3-4 hours at standard USB currents to charge (faster if using a fast charger, but again that requires either 120V+adapter or a 12V+adapter). The BMV tells me the phone sucks 0.5A when charging while the inverter itself is using 1.2A even when idle (1.7V if charging the phone). That long charge time is why I like to leave it charging overnight - but if I do that I'll use a good 10Ah due to the inverter inefficiencies! That's tough to swallow when boondocking for an extended period. I get why the inverter outlet is where it is (CPAP machines), but I personally would find more utility in a 12V socket in that area, which I'll probably install at some point. I also wish the inverter powered the kitchen counter outlet, so I might reroute that outlet from the converter to the inverter instead. But it's GFCI so I'm not sure what ramifications there are there (haven't researched that yet)
Thanks for the responses guys!
It is easy to add RV style,12VDC/USB outlets, you just need a 12VDC source pulled to the area you want the outlet.
- combo 120V/USB - shore power only
The other receptacles are:
- Kitchen counter, microwave 120V: shore power only
- Cubby: combo 120V/USB - shore power or inverter only
2018 Nissan Titan Pro 4X "Big Bird"
Leadville Colorado
cheers
That said, the inverter is only 1200 watts, giving around 800-900 useable watts, and eats battery power when in standby, and more when a AC load is applied. It is too small to run a small microwave, and too large to use for a small appliance using 300-600 watts.
cheers
2018 Nissan Titan Pro 4X "Big Bird"
Leadville Colorado