Solar panel preferences?

CandyG

I am purchasing a used Tag 320 cs-s. I’d love to her feedback on attached solar panels vs free standing, brands, etc. 

CrabTab

@CandyG, We started with a 100W Renogy Eclipse briefcase setup. It was easier to install than roof top, can be placed in any direction to chase the sun and we don't have to worry about weather effects when the panel is not being used and packed away.

Some situations where we dry camp aren't appropriate to set up the briefcase though. But not being able to swivel the T@B to chase the sun with rooftop solar means 100W might not get us to a full recharge by the end of the day.

That being said, I just finished installing 2-100W HQST flexible panels on the roof last night. I chose them because they are shorter than many of the other panels (taking up less space on the roof). They also matched wattage and voltage wise to the Renogy panel we already own. All three panels feed my solar controller (300W potential). I have been testing the rooftop panels today, a nice full sun day and am pleased with their output so far. Road testing will happen soon. As long as the rooftop panels don't blow off rolling down the road, data acquisition will continue. 

Hope this helps...

CharlieRN

I have both for my 2021 BD: The factory 100w panel and a Renogy 100w solar suitcase kit (waterproof panels and controller, adjustable stands, padded carry case and cabling). My thought was that most times, the T@B would be in a less than ideal position for the roof-mounted panels to produce power, and I could set up the Renogy in a better spot nearby (have about 30' of cable). I have yet to do any boondocking but my driveway testing indicates that things should work well. The limiting factor is the puny 80 Ahr stock battery, but I want to do some field testing before upgrading that.

I'm very pleased with the Renogy and have just a few very minor gripes. The kit comes with only about 10' of cabling that you connect to the battery via alligator clamps. So you need to add an additional length of solar cable as well as an SAE plug if you don't want to be limited to the clamps. The unit is also fairly heavy. These are very minor issues however; overall, the Renogy kit is excellent value for money.

cameron

Currently installing flexible 8x flexible solar panels (these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779T2SKP/) ... trying to maximize air flow under them (to keep them cool and working) while minimizing the wing lift effect!

When I get them done, I'll post instructions and pictures.

RMo

We went with roof mounted 80W CIGS panels because they have better production in low light/shade and won’t begin to deteriorate after a year in the sun, as regular flexible panels will.  They are also more durable and won’t crack easily.  With a large battery our plan is to get most of our charging when driving, and top off with AC when needed.

Here is one expert’s take on flexible panels:  https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-panels.html

Good luck and enjoy your “new” Tag

dragonsdofly

@CandyG, can you clarify what model trailer you have for us forum members? Do you have a T@g or a T@b 320 CS-S? Thanks.

jrhamel

We have the roof mounted factory installed panel but often times on longer outings, that are shaded, it isn't enough. I just bought a Renogy 200w suit case, installed the SAE port and have 40' of cable. I have only plugged it in in the driveway, and it works. Will give it its first real go in a week when we head to the Black Hills. Fingers crossed

RichardofYork

@RMo .  I read elsewhere a lot of angst about the wiring for after-market install of solar panels.  You make no mention of it.  What is the secret?  Any tips.  I have a 2018 T@B 400 needing solar.

Horigan

I just installed flexible panels on a 2019 400 with closet.  Drilled a 1 3/8" hole next to the vent, then routed the wires down next to the vent, through the lower plumbing area, then forward and towards the center next to the battery where I installed the controller.

See pictures here.  https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13562/my-t-b-400-solar-install#latest

Fire away with any specific questions you may have.

RMo

@RichardofYork I found the install fairly straight forward.  After spending some time reading about various installs and reviewing guides by the likes of Will Prowse (DIY Solar) I had the confidence to do it.  The panels are plug and play to the cables that enter the camper, the controller had push-in-and-tighten connectors.  The one thing that was new for me was making really good crimps to loop connectors for my connection to the circuit breakers and (then) to the battery.  The key to that, and most jobs, is having the right tools.  Using the recommended wire sizes and fuses/breakers is also important, but it's all quite manageable and info is readily available.  As I told my spouse, no one would pay me by the hour to do electrical work, but the end result was high quality, and I learned a ton about solar, batteries, inverters, amps, volts, breakers, contactor switches, transfer switches and on and on... 

My wiring route was similar to @Horigan but we have the 3-way fridge which I went behind and into the Alde compartment (TAB 400) where we house the controller, then on to the 400ah battery, inverter, etc in the center under-bed compartment.

If you have the time, I highly recommend self installs as the way to go to get it right.  Good luck.

NateColo

We usually camp in locations with some tree cover. For those types of spots, a suitcase setup is useful because you can place it where the sun is shining. We use a Renogy Eclipse 100w with a Victron 20A MPPT.

CandyG

By the way, I have a 2017 320 CS-S. I like to camp in the forest.

RMo

Some questions to think about:  How much will you depend on solar for recharging while in the woods?  How often and for how long will you be driving between campsites?  If you know your daily power usage in amp hours and assume you can replace 30 amp hours in the batteries per every 100 watts of solar panel each sunny day, you can guesstimate how many watts of panels could work best for you.  Then, based on when you’ll recharge (in the woods or in the sun/driving) you’ll know what type of panel to buy.  Maybe it’s a combo of roof mounted and suitcase/foldable.  After all that thinking, some configuration is bound to make sense

druthazer

@RichardofYork  @RMo  @Horigan.   @Crab Tab     Victron Smart 75 15 upgrade question. For my 2017 320s.
I previously installed dual Renogy 100 panels and their PWM controller.  Routed wires down the side & directly into the tub where I mounted the controller. Wired directly to battery. 
Want to upgrade to a new Victron smart controller but their instructions call the DC load to be wired separately from the battery.   
Unclear if I need to run some additional wire or can I just wire to the battery that also goes to the load and to the Ac to DC converter / battery charger when plugged in.   I currently have the old PWM controller wired directly to the dual batteries and it works fine. 

CrabTab

@druthazer, It should be a simple solar controller component swap out. My Victron power out (BATT) leads go to the battery terminals (as I imagine your PWM controller does).

Hope I understood your question properly.

RMo

I have a similar model and just ignore the DC load output terminals and use only the battery output terminals.  I assume the DC load terminals are for wiring a DC component directly to the controller.

pthomas745

Some day, a solar controller manufacturer will write an instruction manual that isn't complete gobbledygook. It has been years now since "normal" people have been buying controllers, and the manuals are just disasters.

The confusion about the "load" terminals is the perfect example.  They are designed for pretty specific purposes...but they have zero to do with charging a battery with a solar panel. 

Say you have a small panel, a small battery, and a small 12V light in a remote location that you want to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise.  You would wire the 12V light into the "load" output.  The solar would charge the little battery, and at sunset the little light would come on, run for as many hours as you set it for, and it would turn off.  (The battery would power the light.) 

All a manufacturer would have to do would be to re-label the "load" to read "12V accessory" or something.  And, then explain that this function has nothing to do with battery charging purposes.

Where are all the disruptors when we need them?  Solar equipment, especially controllers, needs a whole do-over. 

Why are these things so endlessly hard?

druthazer

@pthomas745, @RMo,  @CrabTab. 
Wow, thanks for clarifying... this is what I was thinking but hearing confirmation is so helpful.  
Do you also have & recommend a shunt be added?   I have seen the threds about the cheaper one as well as Victron.  Seems like victron will integrate directly into the app. though more expensive than the chinese one with a wired meter. Nice to not have to run wires through the t@b... 
 I do check voltage on the standard installed instrument panel regularly and do not have large loads or use an inverter to ac. I do have a small automotive inverter but have never found need to use it.   

In case needed, I also have a portable solar panel and 300w solar generator that we could use if rv batteries are drained too low so we can use our CPAPs on DC with heat/humidity turned off. 

We also usually alternate few days disbursed and elect / amenities. Getting ready for a full month out to Tetons & Yellowstone from VA in couple weeks(mostly with electricity but a few boondock nites scattered while traveling).   Getting ready for Arizona in Feb-March timeframe where we are likely to do more disbursed & alternate pattern.
Happy RVing. 
Love our T@b .
Maybe see you at Tabizona?  Bob & Dianne

RMo

druthazer said:... I have seen the threds about the cheaper one as well as Victron.  Seems like victron will integrate directly into the app. though more expensive than the chinese one with a wired meter. Nice to not have to run wires through the t@b...

I went with the $30 AiLi to save money and see if it was enough to meet my needs - thinking I'd probably get a Victron later, but I haven't.  I found I used the meter a lot at first to understand different draws and charge rates and now I use it only occasionally to check to see where things stand.  When not in use i stash it under the bed where my T@B 400 batteries are and bring it out on to the counter top when I need it.  I see that now there is a less expensive Victron that gives readouts via the app only.  That's probably what I'll get if I ever see the need.

CrabTab

@druthazer I haven't ever read where someone regretted installing the Victron Smartshunt.

I have a switched digital multimeter installed in the T@B that reads the line voltage. I know it is a 'Flintstone' way to do things but is a step up from my multimeter. With that and the info from the MPPT on Victron App this Ol' Dawg gets by.

Your trip plans sound like fun. We are leaving Virginia Beach and headed west too on our next trip.

Edit: Just about anywhere we travel to is 'west'. 😊

gophergrad

We went with the new Zamp Obsidian 100w for ease of setup, transport, etc.  It's very light weight, has a built in controller, plugs right into the Zamp port on my T@b.  Charges the battery just fine out in the yard.  Learned I can put the panels in the truck bed for a little security-through-obscurity.

I also installed a Victron smart shunt.  Didn't take very long at all.

Haven't put it all to a real test yet, maybe next weekend, smoke/fires willing.

billmaghan

I camp with as much shade as I can get into.  My panel is the lightweight semi-flexible type. I silicone sealed the four corners to thin plywood to avoid over flexing. Everything connects with Anderson connectors.  I have two eight foot extension wires, and two four foot extension wires. These wires are 10/2 landscape wire. Putting the panel square-on to the sun improves power output enough to make it worth the trouble of tracking the sun.

I believe frost will age my panel.  At night I put the panel in the car, or under the trailer.  Movable panels are better while parked.  Roof panels are better while rolling.