fridge on propane

billwanders

2014 Tad 320. Fridge runs on electricity good, but when I try and run it on propane it wont light but can hear fast constant clicking at the front vent. Stove runs good on propane. No outside access to fridge. Thank you.

Tabaz

I heard the same noise years ago when I tried driving with the fridge set on propane (not knowing any better).  When I got to the campsite, I heard that clicking noise.  The wind blew out the flame while in transit.  The fridge kept trying to re-ignite itself.  Turn off the propane bottle and the fridge and wait a few minutes.  Slowly open the propane bottle. Light a stove burner for a few seconds and turn it off.  Then try turning on the fridge.

ColoradoJon

Is your T@B equipped with the Norcold 3 way fridge?  There are several possibilities, including lack of propane gas described by @Tabaz

I had to replace the re-igniter on mine, but the most common problem is the thermocouple.  It can loosen up over time or even go bad.  I think the owner's manual describes how to test.

Mellow_Yellow

Hello. My T@B is also a 2014. I was also having trouble with starting the Norcold on propane. I have learned that it works most reliably when a) I have opened the propane slowly, b) the trailer is perfectly level, front-back and side-side c) after the green light comes on, I hold the starter button in for another 5-7 seconds. If that fails, I turn off the fridge, light one burner of the propane stove for 1 minute, turn off the stove and try again. 

If it still fails, get the fridge serviced. It might be as simple as carbon build-up or something loose. 

I find the Norcold to be an amazing fridge! Mine runs very cold, quietly and efficiently on propane and it’s now almost 8 years old!

PS - the ticking noise is normal. It alerts you to the propane flow and goes off as soon as the fridge has lit up and you’ve chosen a running temperature on the dial. 

ScottG

I've had a tumultuous relationship with the fridge in my 2015 (likely the same model as in your 2014). It takes anywhere from five to forty-five seconds to light, and then I have to hold the button for another forty-five seconds to a minute before the flame will stay lit.

I suspect the first issue depends upon how much air needs to be purged from the propane supply line, and the seconds has to do with the sensitivity of my particular thermocouple. 

Although getting the fridge started sounds like a terrible pain in the neck, once it's lit, it stays lit runs flawlessly and has done so for seven seasons.

Most importantly, I swear that fridge senses your stress level and responds accordingly. The most trouble I've had lighting it was when I projected anger and frustration. Since I have started approaching it with a zen mind and positive encouragement, I've found it's behavior to be much more predictable.  ;-)

gnudad2

Lol.  That's funny!  I hate it when inanimate objects fight me.  I'm a human!

sjanin

I would love to get any info from this topic as I am also having issues with propane on my Norcold 3163X on my 2015 S Max. I like to Boondoc and even have a generator to keep the battery alive as I was told the refrigerator needs at least 20% or more battery to keep the fridge alive while on propane. I went to camp out for the past week and all of my food went bad : (
I kept the battery up and eventually had to turn the fridge to battery mode in hopes the generator would charge it enough to cool. Well that didn't work at all. The 3 way is a total joke cause what I have found is that it truly only gets cold on shorepower. It was 104 degrees a couple nights and I wish I had brought a backup cooler with ice. I am told the Norcold is awful so should I replace this fridge with a Dometic 3 way?
I bought a new pigtail for the propane tank to the regulator. No leaks at all which is better. My light turns green on the fridge and indicates its on but there is no cooling. So does that mean that it is actually lit? I cannot access this fridge from the back but only from the top. Not sure even where the flame is located but the ignition ticking stops when the light goes green so I figured it would go out if the fridge didn't work. That is not the case unfortunately. The owners manula is a complete joke. I would love any advice and even links to some good information. Much appreciated. About to spend too much on taking it to an rv repair. 

ChrisK

OK, so I used to have a lot of trouble getting the 3-way in my 2014 T@b S Max lit on propane. I'd set it to the "Start" position (pointed straight up at the 12 o'clock position) per the manual and it would never start. I did some poking around on the old interwebs and found that the previous model of the fridge had the Start position at the 2 o'clock position. Same fridge. Same internals. Just a different control panel. So, I tried it with the knob in this position and it started every time. It takes about 30-45 seconds to light and few few more seconds to stay lit. Yes, you should still open the propane valve on the tank slowly and light a burner first, but this solved my problem. Your mileage may vary. 

Fergie

A little late on this thread, but we have a 2015 T@B S Max and after a couple of years of propane operation, albeit tricky starting, we gave up and only use it on shore power or battery. We usually camp where there is shore power and I have not the inclination to go thru all the various procedures to remedy the problem I have read about here on the forum. 

However, today I was getting some chemicals at a RV shop in our area and happened to talk to a service guy who was familiar with T@B's, as they are very rare here in Alaska. He also was familiar with Norcold friges on the T@B's and mentioned that you could order a wind deflector kit which eliminates some of the problems. Anyone here familiar with such a kit?

Fergie
Palmer, AK

Mellow_Yellow

It also helps the fridge to light and stay lit if the T@B is as close to perfectly level as possible, front-back and side-to-side.