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no hot water!!!

I have a new 2016 cs-s.  I can get heat, but no hot water.  I have checked all valves and fuses.  Any ideas???  My dealer is 300 miles away, so I can't pop in for service.

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    jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,391
    The Queenbee has no hot water! Maybe we can help you with that. How are your controls on the Alde panel set? Are you on shore power, propane, or both? How long ago did you turn on the Alde?

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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    jdargisjdargis Member Posts: 305
    I wonder if the valves are still set for winter, which is not letting water into the Alde water heater tank?
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    jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,391
    It could be. I always start with the obvious stuff, first, though.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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    jdargisjdargis Member Posts: 305
    She's got heat, so Alde must be working.
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    jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,391
    Missed the heat. Yeah, the valves would be my guess. Check out the photos in the file in this thread: http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/415/winterizing-a-t-b-unit#latest

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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    USWildflowersUSWildflowers Member Posts: 177
    edited July 2015
    The rotary dial is the heater thermostat setting, not for the water heater. If you are running on electric, left slider sets the power level; higher heats faster, uses more power, and may not operate at higher levels if you are connected to 15-20 amp shore power. Bottom setting is "no electric." Middle slider up if you also (or only) want to use LP to heat. LP will heat it faster than electric; if you also have electric on, it will use LP to heat it quickly, then revert to electric-only (as I understand it) to maintain heat. The right slider, next to the rotary dial, set for "off" (bottom), heat AND water (middle), or hot water only (top.) The middle setting runs the circulating pump to pump the glycol solution thru the radiators.

    To directly answer your question - left 2 sliders to determine electric or LP; right slider all the way up for hot water only.

    Edited: I initially said "then revert to LP-only (as I understand it) to maintain heat."  Don't know why I said that except to blame my normal short attention span...
    gerry - Flintstone, GA - 2015 T@B S - 2012 Toyota Highlander

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    JacobyOJacobyO Member Posts: 35
    Are you running on water connection or from the tank? We had the same issue trying to run from the tank our first trip out. Our water pump was clogged and not able to get enough pressure going to get the heater going. When we hooked it up to a hose the water heater was then working. When we went back to use the fresh water tank it seemed to work from there as well. But due to the clog, the water pump now had enough pressure to bust apart at the seam and properly fill  the underside of the T@B with water. Please check your water pump and look for plastic shavings in the first filter. If there are shavings in there and you are not getting good pressure then the pump might be filled with them as well. This could lead to a fatal leak leaving your camper totalled with water damage. 
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    USWildflowersUSWildflowers Member Posts: 177
    JacobyO - How do you check the water pump filter? Thanks!
    gerry - Flintstone, GA - 2015 T@B S - 2012 Toyota Highlander

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    queenbeequeenbee Member Posts: 2
    Finally got it working!!!  Combination of valves and this weird knob that wasn't in the picture.  Lots of trial and error.  Finally ended up having to park it in my driveway........a no no in my neighbourhood.....and just moved one part at a time.  Finally!!!!!!  Thanks for all the great hints.
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