Brake issues

Jetman

i have 2015 TAB 320S model, having issues with brakes towards the end of a trip when get into congested traffic the RH brake seems to grab on final end of the stop and the trailer actually jerks when release the brake pedal. I adjust controller to 1.5 or 2 on the Gain control and to 1o or 2o on the Sync Control, helps a little. Do not understand having to adjust the Controller so much? Also seems to be more brake dust on RH wheel, none on LH wheel. Am having to reset the brake controller several times during the trip and am told that should not have to be done. Also at end of last trip when parking camper under car port have a scrapping noise from RH wheel as it rotates. Controller is aDraw-Tite 5504.

Is it a controller problem or a brake problem, I am not a mechanic. I have read on this forum of same problems with other same Draw  Tite controllers and that others replaced with a Prodigy P2 Controller an problem went away.

Thanks for any help 

Grumpy_G

There is only a single controller output going to both trailer brakes. Typical failures are wiring to the brake on one side (left hand in your case), or bearing grease got into the drum severely reducing the braking power. 

In any case it sounds like it's time to remove the drums on both sides and see what's going on. 

tabiphile

To your point that you are not a mechanic, this is an issue that you should have addressed by someone who is. The controller (as noted by Grumpy_G) is only masking what is a problem with the brakes. Brakes require occasional adjustment. Typically, this is done during your annual wheel bearing PM. There have been several threads on the forum where the procedure is well described. It is easy and within the capabilities of most owners. All that is required is to raise the wheel so that it can be spun by hand. While spinning you observe if it turns freely or not and whether or not there is drag. The adjustment is done with a brake spoon through the access hole in the back of the drum. The brake is tightened until there is considerable drag and then backed off until there is only a bit. 
For your case where there is a real likelihood that the drum and pads have been overheated. It would be wise to take the next step and pull the wheel and the drum and visually inspect it. If the pads are heavily worn or if the drum is scored, a brake replacement is required. Or, you might get lucky and find that all you need to do is clean of the surfaces with brake cleaner and put it all back together, taking time to properly torque the castellated nut that pre-loads the wheel bearings.
If you find grease inside the drum or on the pads, then you have probably blown a rear bearing seal while using the Dexter grease fittings to lube the bearings. 
If all of that sounds like it's a bit much to tackle, do take it to a shop that does trailer repair work and have it serviced by a mechanic. Your wheel bearings should be inspected and serviced at the same time...both sides. 

Jetman

Thanks for both your thoughts, will look into both trouble shooting suggestions and if still persists take to a mechanic. Have some time before next trip.

Ok when doing my trouble shooting of these possible problems where should I put the jack to get to tire off the ground and if I need to remove the tire where should I put jack stands in order not to damage the frame and hold trailer in place. I know to chock the other wheel, but have heard about axle and frame being weight restrictive??

pthomas745

The brake adjustment is fairly simple.  Pretty much like my old VW brakes years ago.    This thread will give you the basics.  There have been a few threads where there has been a mechanical failure of a spring, etc.  The thread will show you the things to look for.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/5483/brake-adjustment

And, a thread showing the jacking points for the trailer.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8314/jacking-points-on-tab-320-and-400/p1

The axle of the trailer is not "solid".  Jacking the trailer using the axle as a lift point will damage the axle. The axle is called a "Dexter Torflex", and this thread explains it.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8847/type-of-suspension

Jetman

Thank you sir for your help and the threads to review.

pthomas745

There are more threads that may have more info.  If you can jack the trailer wheel up, and give it a spin, it should tell you quite a bit about what may be happening.

Mickerly

Your original problem sounded like one brake was working and one not. If you can find a helper, have you helper sit in the driver seat with everything hooked up. Hold a compass next to the hub on one side. Have your helper press the brake. The compass needle should swing, indication electric power to the brake. Check the other side. If both sides have electric power, the problem isn't in the controller or wiring harness.

If you willing to disassemble the brake and hub assemble, that would be the next step.

If one side didn't receive power, no compass swing, but one side did, there is an issue in the trailer's wiring.

If neither side moved the compass, the controller of the 7-pin portion of the wiring is the problem.

At that point, if you take it somewhere to be repaired, their diagnosis should match yours. You have an indication of honesty, or the opposite, depending.

From your description, I would bet on a mechanical issue in the right brake. Electric brakes tend to fill up with dust and not function properly, as in get stuck in one position. Annual disassemble and cleaning is important.

Good luck.