Grounding of Generators

Gherzig

The previous owner of my 2021 Tab 400 included an unused Champion 2500W inverter dual fuel (gas/propane) generator with the Tab.  He also installed an easy start on the Dometic Air Conditioner.  I am a newbie to generators and am finding conflicting information regarding grounding.
The owner's manual states that this is a Neutral Floating generator and, therefore, must be grounded (copper grounding pole to earth) whenever it is used.  I have read elsewhere that a generator attached to an RV should not be grounded.  Two questions:
-Must this generator be grounded whenever attached to the Tab?
-Should a 120v surge protector be used as well?
I suspect the answers are both likely to be a simple "yes", but it is not fully clear to me.
I do not foresee using this generator other than when Air Conditioning my be needed while boondocking.
Thank you.

Dutch061

The issue that can happen with a floating ground, primarily tends to happen when using a surge protector.

In my case, I am using the Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C with a remote display. This display has a "bypass switch" so that when I use my 3500-Watt Generator, I can use the bypass mode to allow the surge protector to let the AC voltage pass through. If I don't, the surge protector will prevent the AC voltage to pass through. The other option is to make or buy a "grounding plug", but again this will only be an issue if you have a surge protector. 

So now to answer your questions.

1. No, the generator doesn't need to have a ground rod driven in when you use it.

2. That is a personal choice, in the previous 3 RV's I have owned, I never used one. I put the hardwired version in our 2020 400 BDL because it is the last camper I am buying. There are both internal and external versions available, with pros and cons for both. I chose internal, because it is always connected, it is inside so no worry about theft, and with the remote display, I can easily see any troubles with the AC power supply (displayed as error codes). 

Brad

Grumpy_G

This is one of those topics where you can find any answer you want if you just look around the Internet Here is my view (which may well be wrong): 

A typical residential home has ground and neutral "bonded" at the panel, and there is a grounding rod (or two) connected to the panel as well. Any sub-panels in the home or an outbuilding fed from the same meter do not have that bond and rely on the main panel. A generator connected to the home via a transfer switch also assumes the bonding is in place which is why generators typically do not have ground and neutral connected internally. 

A RV in a campground is like a sub-panel to the campground power and hence does not have the bond either. RVs sometimes have what is commonly known as "hot-skin" condition which happens if there is "stray voltage" and the ground connection via the pedestal is broken. The RV chassis sitting on rubber tires and leveling jacks does not have a good connection to earth so the stray voltage can't go back to the grounding rod at the campground main panel. Until you provide the path

A RV powered by a *bonded* generator would normally dissipate any stray voltage via the bonded ground/neutral. A generator sitting on the ground does not have a good connection to earth (unlike something that uses a grounding rod like a main panel) so even if the ground wiring is broken the "hot skin" voltage is likely less unless you touch the trailer and generator frame at the same time. Or you're in a rain storm. 

So bonded generator yes but not earth-grounded generator. Driving a 8ft copper rod into the ground is not feasible in most places anyways. 

GatorEgg

With something as important as your trailer electrical system and possible fire I wouldn’t listen to a bunch of us internet “ experts/kooks”.
You need to contact the generator manufacturer for guidance.

Gherzig

@GatorEgg, thank you.  Yes my next step is to contact Champion for guidance.  (FWIW it is the "experts/kooks" that make forums like this worthwhile - at least for me).  This whole issue of "neutral bonded" and "floating neutral" is hard, for me, to translate into real life impacts.  I am also asking if I should be concerned that an outlet analyzer indicates the generator 120v outlet shows reversed polarity.  Internet "experts/kooks" say that this is to be expected with a "floating neutral" generator.  I guess I know enough about electricity to be dangerous but definitely not enough to operate a Tab.  Thank you for your replys.