Water leak along Dutchman side trim

PeteW

I have a 2004 Dutchman.  I know there is an issue of leaks around the taillights.  If we spray water at the height of the T@B logo on the right side, there is a trickle of water that comes in above the taillight.  It seems like we may need to seal underneath the side trim.  Has anyone experienced that?  Is the best fix to apply butyl tape or sealant foam or flexpoxy or marine rx putty or ... So many options.  Thanks!

ChanW

Hi Pete.

I'd use adhesive silicone sealant, like Permatex "Clear Adhesive Sealant - Silicone RTV". I don't know if it's any stickier but it sounds like it is!

It's best to apply the sealant underneath that plastic piece the light is mounted in.

The plastic trim that the light is mounted in comes off with three or four screws. There may be silicone around the edge of the trim piece, so you might need to pry a bit to get it to release.

Careful when it releases because it will then be hanging by the wires. 

Check for any openings on the back of the lamp fixture itself, and apply silicone if needed.

Look where the wires go through the body. It's probably gooped with silicone (or not). Clean as much old silicone (maybe loose or dirty) off the area as you can, also clean the wires, and then re-goop the area. 

Apply the silicone while the wires are hanging down, and let it set up in that position, so that the wires have a natural 'drip loop' when you re-attach the lamp to the Tab.

Let the silicone harden overnight before you re-attach the piece, as disturbing the wires might open a channel up, allowing a leak.

When you put the trim back on, silicone the top edges with the sealant, but leave the bottom edges unsealed so that any water that does get in, has a way to get out.

HTH!

PeteW

Thank you Chan. I think my post may have been poorly worded. We have addressed the issue around the taillight.  The problem is higher up on the shell at the level of the T@B logo.  If I spray water at the yellow trim on the right side some water is getting inside the T@B.  We see the water entering in the back a few inches above the taillight.  I'm wondering if I need caulk, putty, tape, or do something else to eliminate the gap between the yellow plastic trim and the silver back of the teardrop.

ChanW

Pete, I think it's the same with the trim on the top edge, you would want to remove it to seal the joint between the wall and the roof.

The trim isn't intended to seal.

When you see what the sealant is underneath the trim, it might give you an idea of what to use.

Edit: (now that I've actually read your original post!)...
No, sorry, I can't help you with what they seal(ed) it with at the factory, and now they might be using something completely different. Though you might try calling NuCamp - they could probably advise you.

You might want to post your question on (what was) the Yahoo group. They focus more on the early, pre-Little Guy Tabs. (https://groups.io/g/tabtrailers)

rfuss928

Early T@B group is not defunct...

https://groups.io/g/tabtrailers/topics

Not sure why ChanW link doesn't work - just checked this one..

ChanW

Thanks for fixing that @rfuss928. I just received a notification from the group. I'll edit my post.

FuzzyYanni

We JUST fixed that leak ourselves on the upper part of the T@DA same seal as your T@B.
I have uploaded photos and descriptions in the facebook group. Here is a link to my post.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.334679328535563&type=3

MY description is:
Roof Leak (under plastic trim, edge cap seal!)

I am pretty sure in the 6 years I have been in the T@B T@DA forums I have never heard anyone discuss a leak such as this!
The NuCamp forums probably have had this discussion, but I'm not there like ever 

We had a slow roof leak due to a small section of failed Dicor seal, under the driver's side plastic trim cap. Under the exterior plastic trim (remove black rubber seal and gently raise the plastic trim to reveal the roof edge) is an aluminum right angle "bracket edging" running the whole length of the trailer from the front floor section, up to the roof and all the way down the back to the floor again. It's held down by screws and stabilizes the roof.

This metal bracket is what holds and waterproofs the trailer roof to the two vertical sidewalls of the trailer. Under it on both the roof and sidewalls walls is an even coat of Dicor works as adhesive and a water barrier for any water running down under the plastic exterior trim.

We had two tiny tiny gaps in dicor due to (perhaps) expansion from heat and or water pooling there and expanding due to freezing. Gradually these gaps in the dicor seal became bigger but still less than 2mm. They were very hard to find!

They were so small that even after I found them, I did a hose water test flooding the roof and no water came inside the trailer. Usually when we camped, even when it was raining, we would not get water coming in but ONCE, I suppose the trailer was sloped the right way, and we had enough rainfall that we SAW water coming in and dripping down from the roof carpet.

I think capillary action was also a factor due to the small size of the slits (sorry no photos).
I had to get self-leveling Dicor, put in it a modified plastic syringe and slowly inject Dicor inside the two tiny openings. Then with my finger I smoothed out the edge to force any future water to simply run over the surface (similar to smoothing silicone caulking in a bathroom and cleaning up the job with your finger in the end to look smooth)

So far no more leaks. Next up, try to cleanup the water stains on the white roof carpet. I also need to find single staples for a brad nailer to reattach the roof trim piece (inside the trailer) that is hanging down.