Leaking Glycol?

MColleen

Hello. I own a 2017 T@B CS-S. My heater was not working last week. Before adding glycol, I unplugged/replugged the 12volt electrical connection on the Alde system. Then, I raised the back of the trailer as it hasn't been moved in a few months and I suspected it was an air bubble. So, after an hour, I lowered it and yay, the heater worked just fine. 
But! As soon as I went outside I saw a drip coming from a little valved under the trailer. I will attach a photo. I wish that the owner's manual had a diagram of what everything is. So, if you are standing to the rear of the trailer, facing the kitchen, this is on the left. 
I sure hope anyone knows what this could be!

vhollow

I have a different Tab, a 400, but, yes, that is glycol. If it were my trailer, I would now look at the expansion (fill) tank to see if it looked too full or not full enough. The tank has a breather/overflow tube that comes out under the trailer from a round pipe like the one shown. You can also check out the “manuals” section of the forum, looking at Alde manuals, and do some key word searches to consult the many, many folks who have had Glycol spills and written about them.

MColleen

Okay, I'll do that. Thank you! 😊 

Tabaz

This is the top side of that drain hose.  The thin clear tubing comes from the Alde overflow tank.  Note there are two clear tubes coming out of that tank. One comes out the top and the other from below. I have the top one going into an empty water bottle just to keep things tidy back there.  I never noticed the other tube coming out the bottom of that tank (you can feel where it connects to the tank behind the two black Alde hoses).  Hoping someone can shed some light on the purpose of that tubing.

Sharon_is_SAM

The 2017 CSS glycol tank is up front behind the bathroom hatch and the overflow tubing drains under the driver side.
The drains connected to the black plug under the galley includes the hot water non return valve and the auto air bleeder tube that connects to the Alde flow assembly.  If the valve in the flow assembly gets stuck open, you will drain glycol.  The usual recommendation is to give the flow assembly a hard whack to try to disengage the stuck valve.  If that doesn’t work, the fix is replacing the flow assembly.  This is not uncommon (voice of experience).  See “A” below.  (The photo is the 320 S model, so the 2nd and 3rd shot are a little different from the CSS.)

MColleen

Great information! Thank you!