Replacing stabilizer on 2008 Clamshell

Sam452

Thanks to this forum I'm pointed to workalike 20-inch stabilizer to replace mine which appears to have a broken "anchor." As you can see in my photo the Dutchmen has what appears to be strong frame to contain it. Who has replaced their stabilizer? Did you remove the original equipment in favor of the BAL product? 
How would you replace it?

rfuss928

The "nut" is replaceable.
I think this is the correct part.  Double check dimensions.  There are other sources.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173974210816?epid=1820821204&hash=item2881abc900:g:j7QAAOSwjDZYbSJY
Have fun...

Mouseketab

Yes, that is the correct part. I've had to replace a couple of them over the years.

Geo

@Sam452,  Do not use a different type 'corner steady' the frame is not as robust as you think. The AL-CO frame is designed to be ultra light weight and the 'corner steadys' (stabilizers) are designed for that frame.
The 'worm nut' is replaceable as has been said by @rfuss928, and @Mouseketab. I replaced all 4 of mine in '21.

anniesant

Hi there! I have a 2007 dutchmen t@b, and the anchor bolt just broke on one of
my stabilizers.  Can someone please confirm that the eBay link above is the correct part?  Is there a US source for this part?  I’m in Alaska, so I want to make sure I’m ordering the correct part as shipping is a bit steep.  Thanks!

rfuss928

There is a 16mm version and a 20mm version.  The link above is for the 20mm.
Here is a link for the 16mm:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165394553570?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20201210111314&meid=3919e0bd724740499ef4f50721f41800&pid=101195&rk=2&rkt=12&sd=173974210816&itm=165394553570&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V4V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecall&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:1653945535703919e0bd724740499ef4f50721f41800|enc:AQAIAAABQA2rugFlOq3qu1cLac%2F%2Fk6Vp0Oa0HaJIqoXKeIiOR%2BTUgsSvHaeyPxKYu6UqHqq7GaGyKVqHQnjeiiXcQpMGw2t3aB%2BssGfjtIWOBj8wExc7oYYP7xGMyQCrHDyDaSaWjB1CueI3A94n0yxXX5dx5gCTUQTSfDjLQ7g6JZFf3hYCU4DgGm6LgQaj7h909siF9pl3va0pLaIjJezFli3ZIrmASKIxjpEeZEUhI9k1nzw6UQbq5Q9hPKBdA%2B9yfgn4VYiSs6oQVApYiVUWB3tNkpvFNal29jsinWOpkA815rn8bSLdJSmBNgktKCEb1Yp9I%2FfZPp6E5CZuDmf6rqaECScx7I1%2FdvhCwl8tCGu4o1%2FOo32tG8Raw%2FpILxegvguUbCmi4Bdj8HcbscHo3ltUqaHUK0HTDoFF2E5heADwpKqF|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=1643903624

Measure the diameter of the worm screw on your T@B to be sure which one is correct.

anniesant

thanks for the quick reply!  I’ve removed the worm screw … do I measure the inside or outside for the diameter?

rfuss928

anniesant 
Measure the outside diameter of the worm screw.  I'm pretty sure the T@Bs use the 16mm part...

Mouseketab

rfuss928 said:

anniesant 
Measure the outside diameter of the worm screw.  I'm pretty sure the T@Bs use the 16mm part...

I've always replaced mine with the 20mm nut (2007).

rfuss928

Mouseketab said:

I've always replaced mine with the 20mm nut (2007).

Thanks Carol,  I really wasn't sure and my old CS is gone...
In that case, the original link for the 20mm is correct.

anniesant

I ordered the 20mm based on the inner diameter of the worm screw, as the outer diameter was >16 or 20.  It’ll be a bit before I update to confirm, but I’ll try to remember… thanks for the help!  Also, any tips on removing the cotter pin?  I have it soaking in degreaser currently…