Leveling at home and storing

PNWtabber

My second-hand trailer (2018 320S Boondock) came with Anderson levelering blocks:




These work well in many places but not so well at home. 
 
I have an asphalt driveway that slopes steeply down from the road toward my house.  The driveway has an extension next to the garage, just long enough for my T@B, that is more level--but the tow vehicle is still on the steep part of the driveway when I hook and unhook my trailer--so the tow vehicle will usually move a few inches when I apply the parking brake and remove my foot from the brake pedal.  The parking spot also slopes away from the garage--my LevelMatePro says I need to raise the door-side of the T@B by 4" to get it level (pretty much the maximum of the Anderson leveling block.

Because of this combination of circumstances, I often end up either rolling the trailer tire off the leveler while trying to get the trailer as level as possible or just accept the trailer will not be level when parked at home.  I have tried both backing onto the leveling block and pulling forward on it.  Additionally, sometimes the plastic block just skids on the asphalt rather than staying put while the trailer is being parked.

I am usually doing this by myself, so having someone spot me or manage the levelers is not a solution.  As mentioned, I do use a LevelMatePro.

Here are my questions.

1. Do I need to have my trailer level when parked/stored at home?
2. Is there a better leveling block option that will give me the 4 inches rise that I need to get the trailer leveled?

Thanks!

VictoriaP

The reasons to level are basically a) you’re actively using a 3 way fridge and b) you don’t want to sleep with your head downhill. That’s basically it, which means I generally don’t bother with leveling at home. So you can skip leveling for the most part. The exception is if you need to pre-cool the fridge before a trip.

Given that you only need this height when at home? I’d suggest you build a small wood ramp of the height you need out of a few 6” or 8” wide boards stacked & screwed together for stability. It doesn’t have to be pretty, or particularly portable, since you won’t be taking it on the road.

DenisP

I will let others answer the leveling question but a tip which helps Anderson levelers on hard surfaces is to put non-skid tape on the bottom. After I had a scary issue with movement on a paved surface, I put wide stick on non-skid tape used on stair treads on the bottom surface. I haven’t  had any issues since. 

Binghi

In situations where my Andersen leveler may skid back, e.g. loose gravel, I place a piece of 3/8 inch plywood cut to about 6“ x 15“ behind the leveler before backing up. The plywood does a good job of keeping the leveler from skidding back. You also gain 3/8 of an inch on leveler height.

PNWtabber

Binghi said:

In situations where my Andersen leveler may skid back, e.g. loose gravel, I place a piece of 3/8 inch plywood cut to about 6“ x 15“ behind the leveler before backing up. The plywood does a good job of keeping the leveler from skidding back. You also gain 3/8 of an inch on leveler height.

Behind the leveler or underneath the leveler (i.e., between the block and the ground)?  Thanks.

Binghi

Sorry, underneath.

PNWtabber

@Binghi --thanks!