Danby AC Hot Air Venting

Finally got around to modifying my Danby venting to improve performance in my T@b 320s.  I decided to build and install an external permanent mounted hot air defector.  This also helped me improve my metal fabrication skills so it was a win/win project for me.

The design was to have a hot air deflector with approximately the same area as the AC exhaust area when running but could be partially closed when not in use for travelling . 

First the final product in the open position for running the AC:





This is the closed position for travelling but the unit will function in this position also but with a reduced air exit opening which may or may not effect unit performance:



I pulled the AC unit out for cleaning and found there were 4 angled aluminum strips installed on the AC condenser to apparently make sure the exiting hot air matches the height opening of the AC vent on the trailer side wall.  The width of the hot air exiting the AC condenser was also reduced by about an inch and a half  on each side but I am  not sure why.  It looks like a DIY modification I assume was performed by the previous owner.



I built the vent deflector to match this on the AC refrigerator.


First I made and installed two slotted aluminum baffles that provided vertical isolation through the vent louvers for the hot air exiting the AC as seen below:






The deflector is in two pieces, a u-shaped section bolts to the two slotted plates sticking out of the vent and has the bottom.  The movable deflector is then bolted to the u-shaped piece near the bottom and pivots there:







This modification did entail quite a bit of measuring and re-measuring to avoid mistakes when working with the aluminum plate and I made extensive mock-ups with cardboard before attempting fabrication with the aluminum. 

I would prefer not having an external device mounted on the side of the trailer, but considering the options, this doesn't look too bad and works well.


2019 T@B 320S

Comments

  • Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,760
    Not sure if you saw this, but here is the original discussion by Pop Tab regarding use of deflectors to optimize AC performance.

    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/3564/air-conditioning-unit-change-out-part-2-ac-cabinet-modification/p1
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
  • grassgdgrassgd Member Posts: 160
    Not sure if you saw this, but here is the original discussion by Pop Tab regarding use of deflectors to optimize AC performance.

    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/3564/air-conditioning-unit-change-out-part-2-ac-cabinet-modification/p1
    Thanks, but yes I saw that. 

    I had already put insulation on the bottom of the drip pan but did not put any addition insulation on the inside of the AC box,  With the modification I made, the sides of the AC box (front by the shower wall and rear)  now only receive ambient are from outside and don't get any of the hot air from the AC condenser.  I also installed foam insulation around the opening and the AC unit to keep any air from the AC box entering the trailer interior.   

    One other place I added insulation was on the roof of the storage area underneath the refrigerator.  With the refrigerator running there is a lot of heat that builds up in there as evident every time I opened it.   

    Another place that really needs insulation is between the refrigerator and the Tab wall at the entry door.  The plastic part of the refrigerator is the only thing between the interior of the trailer and the heating area of the refrigerator. This get hot with the refrigerator running.  

    All these heat sources put unnecessary load on the AC unit.
    2019 T@B 320S
  • keningallskeningalls Member Posts: 9
    Can anyone explain to me why the owner of a very expensive trailer is having to come up with a retrofit to try to make the A/C work properly. Is it not the factory's responsibility to come up with the solution as they designed it into their trailer ?. I'm on my second A/C unit, they do not last long installed the way they are. I hope your retrofit works
  • grassgdgrassgd Member Posts: 160
    Can anyone explain to me why the owner of a very expensive trailer is having to come up with a retrofit to try to make the A/C work properly. Is it not the factory's responsibility to come up with the solution as they designed it into their trailer ?. I'm on my second A/C unit, they do not last long installed the way they are. I hope your retrofit works
    Sorry for the delay in checking the forum and your question. 

    It works great.  The hot air can be felt being exhausted directly up out of the deflector and the inlet sections on each side are pulling only outside ambient air with NO hot air being recirculated.
    2019 T@B 320S
  • MickerlyMickerly Member Posts: 431
    You may want to try "window air conditioner weather stripping." Take the trim piece off at the front of the air conditioner. Add the weather stripping between the air conditioner and the face of the cabinet. This will stop the draft from the cabin to the outside. When you put the trim back on, it will be completely out of view. This reduces the cold air coming in during the winter and the cold air going out in the summer.
    2018 320CS-S
    "Just Enough"
  • rcarlson1957rcarlson1957 Member Posts: 199
    keningalls Agree. The problem is on older 320s (like mine) they use a window A/C unit. A window A/C unit is designed to stick outside the window vs installed in a box like in the T@B) so they don't work as well. When it gets real hot here in Texas and you don't have any shade, that window A/C just can't seem to keep up. I wish they could've installed a frame around them with slides allowing you slide them out so they stick out like intended. Would probably work much much better as a 5000 BTU A/C unit should be more than enough for a room like the inside of a T@B. The newer T@Bs use an AIR8 system on the floor under bed that works better with A/C ducting etc. So those of us with older ones have to come up with various little things to help it out (like insulating it inside better, using air deflectors, etc) but none really get it over the hump in very hot weather. I changed mine out to one with a built in thermostat and dehumidifier and easier filter change and even with the mods mentioned, it still can struggle in real hot weather. It is what it is I suppose. 
    2018 TAB 320S Silver/Black
    2020 Honda Ridgeline RTL (AWD) Lunar Silver Metallic
    Rick and Barbara - North Texas
  • rcarlson1957rcarlson1957 Member Posts: 199
    Sharon_is_SAM Those deflectors help. Using foam dividers behind the vent that line up with them even more so. But...you do have to remember to remove them when you break camp. Don't ask me how I know.  =)
    2018 TAB 320S Silver/Black
    2020 Honda Ridgeline RTL (AWD) Lunar Silver Metallic
    Rick and Barbara - North Texas
  • grassgdgrassgd Member Posts: 160
    I have been working on installing a new refrigerator with the trailer in my drive way for the last week or so in over 100 degree temps here hear Houston.  The trailer is in partial direct sun and has no problem cooling with the hot air vent set up posted above.  I am very pleased with the results.
    2019 T@B 320S
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