Green/White vs. Blue/White Wiring

I’m hardwiring a Level Mate Pro.  Encountered pairs of Green /White and Blue/White (see photo).  I’m guessing the whites are negative but what’s the distinction between green and blue?   I want the Level Mate to have power whenever the main battery switch is on. 

2021 Tab 400 Boondock, 2021 Toyota Tacoma, Juno Beach Florida

Comments

  • ckjsckjs Member Posts: 74
    The colors for the positive wires merely help distinguish one circuit from another when several are bundled  together.  If they were all the same color it would be really difficult to track down “where does this wire come from?”.  It still is isn’t easy much of the time.
    Charles & Judy, Santa Cruz, CA
    2018 T@B 320 CS-S; Alde 3020; 4 cyl 2020 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
  • manyman297manyman297 Member Posts: 1,363
    You would have to use a voltmeter/multimeter to determine which positive leads are getting power when your battery switch is on. 
    2021 400 BD
    2020 Tacoma TRD Off-Road 
  • BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,357
    edited June 2022
    @rrcbov, I'm assuming they all have power when the battery disconnect switch is "On" (i.e., connected and providing power to your 12V circuits.)  However, to figure out what those wires actually power, you should take a look at the DC wiring from your power center/converter.  Find those two sets of wires near the power center and trace them to which fuse circuit they are wired.  The multi-colored wires (i.e., one wire is white and the other is of a specific color) most likely connect to a single-colored wire that enters the back of the power center.  Keep in mind that the single-colored wire will likely have no logical color scheme in relation to the mult-colored set of wires (e.g., green may be connected to a brown wire.)  And, hopefully (to make things easier), the power center's fuse board is labeled with the color of the wire adjacent to where its respective fuse is inserted.  If you have a WFCO power center, it most likely includes the wire color displayed next to the fuse.

    Hopefully, your power center was properly labeled by nuCamp, but don't rely completely on that.  To be sure, switch off the items that are presumably (i.e., labeled) powered by the respective circuits to determine if the labeling is accurate.  You can also pull the fuse for each circuit and test all the DC connected items that have lost power when each respective fuse is removed.

    When I changed out (upgraded) my power center recently, I made notes as to what each set of those circuits power, which hopefully will speed up future troubleshooting I may have to do.
    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


Sign In or Register to comment.