How to get a jack stand in place with floor jack already at jack point?

subkron

Looking at the jack point of my '22 400 BD, it is really only about 8-10" long.  I can't see how I can get a jack stand in there while the T@B is jacked. The footprint of the jack stand does not allow the stand to get close enough to the jack, how do people do this? 

I need to adjust brakes a bit - with my Tekonsha P3 controller at the max setting there is some brake force applied but I cannot get the brakes to lock up.  I need to get to that point first so that I can back down the controller for the proper braking.

Denny16

I have seen combo Jack and Jack stand units, that lock in a specific height setting.  See: https://www.powerbuilt.com/products/4000-lb-unijack-bottle-jack-jackstand-in-one
cheers

subkron

Thanks @Denny16, I had see that but the cradle orientation really needs to 90 degrees shifted to allow you to jack from the side and it appears to be fixed. How do 400 owners [safety] adjust brakes? 

manyman297

So I use a combination of a bottle jack and a smaller 2-ton jack stand (because of the smaller footprint). I place the bottle jack right near the edge of the jacking point on the trailer and that gives me plenty of room for the jack stand to rest on the jacking point as well. I’ve done this multiple times without an issue. 

swiftwave

I use a Hi-Lift Jack with a Lift-Mate accessory to raise the wheel.
This provides abundant space to position jack stands in the correct location.

https://hi-lift.com/accessories/lift-mate/

I place a piece of plywood (about 1’ square) between the black, flat portion of the Lift-Mate and the tire.  This more broadly distributes the lateral force exerted by the Lift-Mate onto the tire.  It works without this plywood, but it appeared to me that I was risking "blowing the bead" on the tire when raising the wheel without the plywood.

Denny16

That is a nice option, I will have to look into.  Solves several issues jacking up the trailer with the higher Boondock axle.  Thanks @swiftwave
cheers

bergger

I have yet to have to put my 400 on jack stands but when needed was also going to use my Hi-Lift jack and Lift-Mate.  Glad to know someone else has already tried it out and that it works well.  

Binghi

I use the Powerbuilt Unijack. It works well enough. You need to get the one that is within the right height range. Not too tall, not too short. Here’s a pic of mine.

subkron

@Binghi, thanks for that. Seems like the cradle is perpendicular to the jack point. If that is the case isn't that a bit dicey, or do you have it sitting in the cradle but then reaching in under the trailer to jack it up?

Binghi

I arrange it so the trailer frame piece sits in the cradle (only safe way to do it) and I reach under to jack up the trailer. You have to squeeze under the trailer some to get enough leverage to do it and it does take some strength, but you can jack it up. I have adjusted the brakes using this jack twice now. I’m getting the process down. What I like is the periodic click that indicates the jack stand operation has moved up another notch and will hold at that height. The jack has a decent- sized base that doesn’t really need supplementation given a solid ground foundation.

Maxcamp8

Also could not find a satisfactory jack/stand combination, these posts are helpful.
I tried a number of things when had to replace faulty NuCamp brake wires that abraded against the tires*, and related hub inspection and mechanical work.  [*There are numerous posts on this subject.]


@Swiftwave I like this idea as it could accommodate uneven ground better than most standard jacks.
Manufacturer pictures show the high lift jack lifting from two rim openings.  Do you then position a jack stand under the pick point?   Any deformation of the rim?  Stability?  Forces are sideways as opposed to lifting.

@Binghi if you've had success with this brand will look into it.

Avoid the Torin Big Red combo jack/stand- at least two in the store were demonstrably defective 11/2021.
Also the jack height was a scant 1/16" less than the ground to pick point- inadequate without pre-jacking and putting tires on levelers.  Found it difficult and disconcerting to partially crawl under to jack.  Needed a cheater bar but not enough clearance to use one.

Took a hard look at welding a longer lift bracket and reinforcing crossbar to the trailer.  Not anxious to undertake more mods.  Appreciate hearing from others what does and does not work.

johnfconway

Binghi said:

I arrange it so the trailer frame piece sits in the cradle (only safe way to do it) and I reach under to jack up the trailer. You have to squeeze under the trailer some to get enough leverage to do it and it does take some strength, but you can jack it up. I have adjusted the brakes using this jack twice now. I’m getting the process down. What I like is the periodic click that indicates the jack stand operation has moved up another notch and will hold at that height. The jack has a decent- sized base that doesn’t really need supplementation given a solid ground foundation.

Thanks for posting this. Probability of trailer crashing down and pinning an arm is close to zero. We did order one of these and will pack it on trips instead of regular bottle jack (base diameter always concerned me). Since you have used it to adjust brakes, do you have two of them?

tabiphile

Whatever jack you chose, be sure that it is one that will fit if the tire is deflated. I prefer and use a small floor jack. It's not as tiny as a bottle jack, but it infinitely safer to use on uneven ground. I carry a piece of plywood to place under it on uneven or unpaved ground. I don't sweat the location of the jack stand. I put it under the frame as a backup and leave the floor jack in place as I work. If the floor jack leaks down (it won't) the jack stand serves as a backup while I get the floor jack pumped back up. 
Remember that working in your driveway is not the same as when you flat. When you are on the side of the road with trucks whizzing by and laying in the dirt trying to get things sorted you must be sure you have the gear you need to get the lugs off, the trailer up in the air, swap out the wheel and get the lugs tightened back up without worrying about dropping the wheel drum on the ground. 

Binghi

johnfconway, I only have one jack. I adjust the brakes one wheel at a time. One reason I like this jack: it fits in the compartment underneath the bed.

swiftwave

Maxcamp8 said:

I like this idea as it could accommodate uneven ground better than most standard jacks.
Manufacturer pictures show the high lift jack lifting from two rim openings.  Do you then position a jack stand under the pick point?   Any deformation of the rim?  Stability?  Forces are sideways as opposed to lifting.

I’ve not observed any wheel rim deformation as a result of using the Lift-Mate.
Stability can be made to be reasonable.  I raise the trailer slowly, pausing occasionally to view the scenario from different angles to determine how things are progressing.  Sometimes, I stop after only a few vertical inches, then lower and reposition the Hi-Lift Jack, then raise it again.  There is some sideways force on the tire.
I place the jack stand on the portion of the axle apparatus that extends just below the trailer frame.  Certainly no jack or stand on the axle itself, as this can damage the innards of the torsion system.

subkron

@johnfconway I'm not sure the hazard is pinning the arm, the hazard is that you have to get some of your upper body under there because of the jack handle orientation. Still seems a bit sketchy. I wonder about fabricating a steel insert that changes the orientation of the jack cradle 90 degrees. I mY take a look into that.

johnfconway

subkron said:

@johnfconway I'm not sure the hazard is pinning the arm, the hazard is that you have to get some of your upper body under there because of the jack handle orientation. Still seems a bit sketchy. I wonder about fabricating a steel insert that changes the orientation of the jack cradle 90 degrees. I mY take a look into that.

Positioning the jack is not dangerous, but possibly uncomfortable depending on age, size and condition of joints  . Once you start jacking, and depending on length of jacking iron, if it all tips over an arm could get pinned if in an inopportune position? No experience, just speculating. I like the substantial base of the Powerbuilt Unijack. Will make sure its low position will accommodate a flat tire.

bergger

I put the stabilizers down on the side I am jacking up just in case sh!@ goes bad. They may prevent a bad accident. I also use a small floor jack I got at harbor freight. It works well  weighs only about 21 lbs and fits into the rear storage compartment along with my other camp chairs and stuff. 

tabiphile

bergger said:

I also use a small floor jack I got at harbor freight. It works well  weighs only about 21 lbs

That's the one. Bottle jacks, scissor jacks, truck jacks and what have you do not offer the safe and simple jacking power that these do. 

johnfconway

tabiphile said:

bergger said:

I also use a small floor jack I got at harbor freight. It works well  weighs only about 21 lbs

That's the one. Bottle jacks, scissor jacks, truck jacks and what have you do not offer the safe and simple jacking power that these do. 

Thanks once again for the tips! That 20 lb. "Trolley Floor Jack" at Harbor Freight is only $40 and is well-reviewed.

New and not-so new owners who are not tool and equipment knowledgeable would benefit from a basic "what you may need, owner recommended tools and equipment for basic trailer maintenance and repair". I credit @Awca12a for starter suggestions in the unofficial manual, but a complete listing of what, why and where to buy would be great!

Denny16

Whilst a basic tool recommendation for new TaB owners may work in most situations, it may not meet the needs of others.  When starting on a new adventure (RV Ownership or any endeavor using a mechanical device like vehicle, bicycle, or other activities requiring the use of tools) many tend to rush out and buy what the think they will need, and without any real personal experience, many buy more stuff than they will end up needing or even using.  

When I started working on boats, and having to lug a tool kit down docks to the boat, or around a boat yard, I quickly learned less is more, and carried only those tools I need for a specific job that needed to be done.  

Same goes for a RV tool kit, some may only need a basic kit to fix loose screws or bolts whilst on the road, or change a tire.  Others may want to be able to do all their own service, and will need a shop and more than a few basic tools.  Not everyone is going to change the tire or adjust their own brakes, and those with the knowledge and skills to do so will already have the tools needed for these tasks.

What works for one owner, may be too much for another, and the other way round.  So making up a list of tools needed, beyond a few basics, will not work for everyone.  There are several discussions here about basic tool kits, including the one by Awca12 in his Unofficial TaB Guide which is an excellent starting point and reference covering most things on the TaBs.  

That said, I only carry a torque wrench and sockets to check the lugs on my Jeep and trailer when on a long trip (carried in the Jeep, with a basic metric/ASA imperial socket wrench kit.  In the TaB, I have a multi screwdriver (a ratchet handle with various tips, like Phillips, slot, square (used by the TaB carried in the handle), heavy duty scissors, small pliers, a small box with the various fuses, with an AC socket tester, and an inexpensive multi-meter.  

All these tools are readily available from your local DIY or ACE hardware store.  Some may want a battery drill driver and socket to raise and lower the trailer stabilizers, but I found this more awkward to use than the provided  hand crank, so I no longer lug the drill/driver around.  

 Cheers