Home› Battery/Electrical & Solar

Fan was running and then stopped

michaelroyymichaelroyy Member Posts: 30
in Battery/Electrical & Solar

I own a 2015 Outback. The fan was running while camping and sitting under it and then it just stopped. I replaced fuses in the unit and down below with no success. I pulled the unit out (see picture) and used my ohm meter to see if I could figure it out. The two clips/wires to the fuse gave me a reading. The fuse clip/wire on the right that leads to the switch clip/wire, also on the right, gave me a reading. The switch clip/wire to the bottom rigid wire with the tube in the middle (looks like a diode), gave me a reading. When I checked the wire on either side of the tube, NO reading. The fan switch was on #2 when I was doing all this. QUESTION: is this my problem or am I missing something in the process or this wouldn’t show up on an ohm reading…?   




2015 Boondock
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+

Comments

  • MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,707
    The component you refer to as a Diode Looking Tube is a Thermal Fuse or Link.
    'Fuse' implies it can fail;  'Link' implies it could reset once cool.

    FFan describes the Speed Control as:
      " 3 Speed and Off-Resistor Switch w/ Thermal Link "

    With all power off to the fan [remove the fuse to be sure] an ohm-meter will read zero or near zero ohms if the fuse/link is Okay . . . or very high resistance if open or tripped.

    Do Not Forget the Thermal Fuse/Link could have failed for a reason - - - such as a fan motor problem.

    You can also short the Thermal Fuse/Link with a piece of wire to help isolate the failure point.

    You have attempted to operate the FFan at power 3, correct?  As that power level won't require the wire resistors to be good.

    I have attached an Edited Version of your picture file,
    the edit includes a reference posting from another forum for this problem.

    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  54   Nights:  341  Towing Miles 43,780
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • michaelroyymichaelroyy Member Posts: 30

    MuttonChops, thank you for taking the time to explain the FFan. A couple of follow-up questions. Are you saying in the revised photo that I can bypass the thermal link by hooking up the wires after the thermal link? If so, could you describe which and where the wire(s) would be connected. Also, I like you switch idea that provides a 0-100%. Can you provide me some detail on what you bought and where? I think I might want to go in that direction. Michael


    2015 Boondock
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,707
    michaelroyy said:
    . . . bypass the thermal link by hooking up the wires after the thermal link?
    . . . could you describe which and where the wire(s) would be connected.
    Shorting out the Thermal Link is for testing only.
    Best method is to use double-ended-aligator-clip-jumper-wire.
    Place one clip on each bare wire end of the Thermal Link:

    michaelroyy said:
    . . . like your switch idea that provides a 0-100%.
    . . . Can you provide me some detail on what you bought and where?
    Am assuming you are referring to the Variable Speed (PWM) Ceiling Fan Mod == 10 Bucks discussion.
    For that project I used a made-in-china, amazon purchased PWM board:
           https://www.amazon.com/uniquegoods-DC-Controller-Adjustable-CCMHCW/dp/B00QA6E4QO/ref=sr_1_3?crid=36EX0X9UD4MLN&keywords=uniquegoods+12V+24V+36V+10A+PWM+DC+Motor+Speed&qid=1662238989&s=industrial&sprefix=uniquegoods+12v+24v+36v+10a+pwm+dc+motor+speed%2Cindustrial%2C328&sr=1-3
         Of course it is no longer $10 bucks.
    I do recommend reading the entire discussion as later dated posts by other Forum Members used different supplier PWM boards and have slightly different examples/remarks on how to complete the project.  It is not a difficult project - - - - but does require planning and attention to the wiring connections.


    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  54   Nights:  341  Towing Miles 43,780
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • TABNewbiesTABNewbies Member Posts: 90
    @michaelroyy, I know it is a bit of a side track, but I did the upgrade to the fantastic fan here
    https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/8556/fantastic-fan-upgrade-to-7350-dramatic-improvement-in-efficiency#latest
    (page 8)
    So I also have the spare parts left over from the 3 speed wire resistor switch that I can send.
    2021 T@B 400 BD T@bitha with 2016 Highlander
    Juliet and Andy in Massachusetts
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • michaelroyymichaelroyy Member Posts: 30
    J&A, super appreciate the offer for parts. Given all the conversation and results of putting in an upgrade, I think I am going in that direction. Michael
    2015 Boondock
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • michaelroyymichaelroyy Member Posts: 30
    MuttonChops, I bypassed the thermal link by removing the wire going into the switch and touching the wire going out of the switch. The fan went on, so I am pretty sure that the thermal link is bad given that it failed the ohm meter test and the bypass activated the fan. Thanks for your help on this. I am going to upgrade given the comments on energy savings and being able to run it more quietly with a variable switch. Michael
    2015 Boondock
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • TABNewbiesTABNewbies Member Posts: 90
    Thanks Michael. The upgrade to the fan is the best upgrade we have done for appreciating the results. Well worth it.  
    2021 T@B 400 BD T@bitha with 2016 Highlander
    Juliet and Andy in Massachusetts
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • MuttonChopsMuttonChops Member Posts: 1,707
    michaelroyy said:
    . . . bypassed the thermal link . . . The fan went on, so I am pretty sure that the thermal link is
          bad given that it failed the ohm meter test and the bypass activated the fan.
    . . . am going to upgrade [to PWM]
    Sounds like a plan :)    Let us know how the PWM Conversion goes.
    '18 320 S,  pitched axle, 3020HE; PNW based
    TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
    Adventures:  54   Nights:  341  Towing Miles 43,780
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
  • michaelroyymichaelroyy Member Posts: 30
    5 weeks later...I purchased the variable motor that was recommended by MuttonChops and others on Amazon. I have a question: It looks like the variable motor has a small fuse attached. If so, can I eliminate the stock fuse that is taking up space and a needed hole? Getting there...slowly. With appreciation, Michael  
    2015 Boondock
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter Share on Google+
Sign In or Register to comment.