A few more questions about Renogy solar panels and which cable

Captenaj

There is a lot of great information here about hooking up a second solar panel. Thank you!

I have a 2021 Tab 320 Boondock with factory installed solar and no external port for plugging in. I want to get a 100W (or maybe 200W) Renogy suitcase panel with a Voyager PWM controller. Before I read the posts here, I called Renogy and asked if I can just clip the new panel to my battery posts. He said no because the Voyager controller will shut down if another controller is charging the battery. Can someone explain why he said this (in very simple terms) when so many posts here said it works fine when you do that.

My second question: I want to get a cable to connect to my battery posts to make it easier to hook up the alligator clips. Is there such a thing? If not, is it easy to change the existing alligator clips that come with the Renogy to something I can use (SAE or M4C)? And related to this, I searched amazon for cables and all the O-rings seem too small for the battery posts: 8mm positive and 15mm negative. Is this standard size? I don't have access to my Tab nor a car battery.

This might be an important point: There is no way I can install a second Victron controller or install anything in the battery tub. Not only do I not have the skill, I'm trying to keep cost down as well.

Thank you so much for your patience with these newbie questions.

pthomas745

These are not "newbie" questions at all.  This gets everyone confused at some point in the process.  I don't want to say "ignore the Renogy advice"...but it makes zero sense.  Many many thousands of trailers are out there with various setups that include two controllers.  Some days I wish I could take a Victron and a Renogy engineer/ customer service type and have them watch how we make this stuff work. 

 Look closely at your battery and battery posts. Or, if you know, tell us what battery it is.   Depending on the battery, there are different sorts of posts.  Many deep cycle batteries have "screw type" posts along with the standard "thimble" looking posts. (I know there must be a real name for them!).  On some newer lithium/AGM batteries, the "posts" are bolts that screw into the battery to mount cables.

Look at your Renogy and see how the alligator clamps attach to the controller.  They should be connected with simple screws that hold the cable in.  Detach the wires, and there are several different ways to connect to the battery.

My solar controller ( and many other owners here) is not "attached" to my trailer in any way.  For years, it was just sitting inside my tub while I was camping.  Ran the solar cables into the tub, attached the solar panel cable to the controller, and then just dropped the SAE cable on the controller out of the back of the tub into the SAE port.  Before I figured out the SAE port, I just used the battery clamps on the battery.  This was simple, inexpensive, and matched my skill level. 

So, tell us what battery you are connecting to.  There are all sorts of ways to make your setup easy to deal with and effective.

Captenaj

Thank you for your help! 

Here is my battery:

My battery is the standard one that came with my camper. I have run it down to nothing 2 times - I think that is bad for it but that's a different discussion.

I have yet to buy the Renogy because the representative scared me. I am going to buy one though, the 100W one with the controller, and if I need more I will buy a second panel without a controller.

AnOldUR

Lot of good advice from smart people on this forum. Good luck!

(decided not to butt heads with the hive mind )

WayneW

I agree with @pthomas745 Renogy's advice doesn't make sense. 

I have pretty much the same setup as you - 2021 320S Boondock w factory solar.  I also have a 100w Renogy solar suitcase with Voyager PWM controller.  The two complement each other very nicely, with no conflict.  While at camp, we often have the trailer in the shade and use the solar suitcase to "chase" the sun.  It works great.  As I said, no issues if the sun hits the solar panels on the roof to get some charge out of them at the same time.  And it's great to have the battery charged by the rooftop solar while you're going down the highway.

I installed an SAE port in the tub and have about 25' of cable so I can move the solar suitcase around.  You can connect the end of the SAE port directly onto the battery terminals if you want.  I ran all the wires to a bus bar just to make things cleaner, but straight to the battery posts also work.   

Also, I have the Voyager controller as part of the solar suitcase, so there's no need to mount the controller in the tub.  That makes the solar suitcase a standalone unit.  I can use it anywhere, like to charge a trolling motor battery on my boat at the dock or to charge a battery in something else.  I prefer that flexibility.

We changed to a 100aH Lithium battery but the setup would work just as well with the stock battery.


Good luck! I'd say forge ahead!  It definitely is a more flexible arrangement than just having the factory solar on the roof.

pthomas745

This is the type of "dongle" that can be used to connect to the battery and then be accessible outside the battery box.  Are you sure these will not fit on the screw terminals of your battery where the cables are now? 

https://www.amazon.com/Terminal-Protection-Disconnect-Extension-Motorcycle/dp/B07XCW4MZZ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2QVIFV5FZJ5SS&keywords=sae+cable+eye+rings&qid=1680309185&s=automotive&sprefix=sae+cable+eye+rings,automotive,169&sr=1-1&th=1

This cable would give you the ease of the "SAE" port on the trailer, without drilling. There are several other types of connectors if you don't want to deal with SAE. This one is the "Powerpole" type.

https://www.amazon.com/iGreely-Terminals-Connectors-Automotive-Compatible/dp/B07ST82H9H/ref=sr_1_1?crid=107L3CL93I9C6&keywords=power+pole+cable+eye+rings&qid=1689373501&s=automotive&sprefix=power+pole+cable+eye+rings,automotive,157&sr=1-1

Attach this to the battery, leave the cable sitting carefully around the battery box, and simply plug in the correct cable from the solar controller. 

There are also things called bus bars and distribution blocks.  But, like everything electrical, it is hard to find a simple video or web page off a simple google search without finding every nuclear power plant mechanic trying to wire up a reactor with one.  Owners here have used them, and the 400 has them installed.  It would be pretty simple ( I think) to get a distribution block somewhere convenient to your battery that you could even use your battery clamp cables on easily.

Captenaj

The Victron would be very nice. I may want to get a second 100w panel at some point and it’s my understanding that you can’t have 200w on this controller. At least that’s what I’m hearing when people are asking about adding a second panel to the existing controller. So I would have to get the next biggest one (is that the 100/30?) to future proof my system and that is over $200. And not waterproof. 

Since the 100w Renogy with the controller is only $40 more than the one without, I think that is the one I will go for. I will deal with the alligator clips for the time being and probably get some sort of pigtail once I see what’s going on. 

Thank you for the advice!

SLJ

I have factory solar (105 watts) with a Victron controller and a 200 watt Renogy suitcase. I have them both working together. If the Renogy doesn't start when plugged in I just shut down the Victron for a minute with the phone app. The Renogy suitcase is on a 20' extension cable so I can set it out in the sun while the T@B sets in the shade. I moved the Renogy controller into the tub so there is little to no power loss with the long cable. The Renogy typically does most of the charging as it can be moved around for optimal sunlight.

Maple_Geek

I have a 2022 320S with the SAE port on the tub and roof solar panel
My TAB came with a 75/10 MPPT Victron for the roof solar
In the spring I added another Victron MPPT but a 75/15 to drive my 200W Renogy suitcase.
This setup works very well for my 200Ah LiPO4 battery bank

Captenaj

pthomas, it seams that most O-rings on the extensions are made to attach to the controller and not the battery. The one you linked to is the only one I’ve seen that’s made to attach to the battery. Does Greeley make those with different couplers? 

People have said the controller should be close to the battery. It looks like the controller is mounted to the panel. Should I/can I remove the controller from the panel and put it in the tub? Then I would need a long extension to go to the panel. Have I got that?

So many questions, so little knowledge. Thank you for your patience.

SLJ

Captenaj said:

People have said the controller should be close to the battery. It looks like the controller is mounted to the panel. Should I/can I remove the controller from the panel and put it in the tub? Then I would need a long extension to go to the panel. Have I got that?

I removed my Renogy controller from the panels and mounted it inside the tub so I don't get loss when using the panels on the extended cables.

Slackers

You will get the most out of your suitcase solar if the controller is moved to the tub (and close to the battery) but you don't have to do so. I have left mine on the panel so it can be moved to charge other batteries that are not on our trailer.

Captenaj

I have just ordered the suitcase. I'm going to wait until it arrives before looking into an extension and a dongle. I'm hoping things become more clear once I have the thing in hand.

Thank you all for your tremendous help!

Horigan

There is some validity to the Renogy rep comment.  Chargers look at load voltage to determine what charging mode to use.  If another charger is charging the battery, a second charger will think the battery is already charged and won't charge or go into bulk mode.  This is why when you have a solar charger, a WFCO, and/or a separate Victron charger connected to a low battery, the total amps going to the battery won't be the sum of all the chargers.  Some of the chargers will think the battery is already charged and won't enter bulk/absorption charging mode.

SLJ

Captenaj said:

I have just ordered the suitcase. I'm going to wait until it arrives before looking into an extension and a dongle. I'm hoping things become more clear once I have the thing in hand.

Here's wat I used for an adapter and extension on my T@B SAE port. Instead of using an adapter to switch polarity I changed the connectors on one end of the extension cable. Bought a kit with the tools and additional connectors in case I ever need to fix/replace a connector.

Renogy 20' extension: https://amzn.to/46ImFaC
10AWG SAE to Male & Female Adapter 10AWG Cable with SAE Conector https://amzn.to/46NlkPV 
Solar Crimper Tool Kit for Solar Panel Cable https://amzn.to/3XPCybn

pthomas745

#Captenaj I've always looked at those "o-ring" cables as being able to attach to the screw terminals of the battery.  The cable then could be manuevered out of the battery box and be conveniently available to plug into the controller or whatever cable you have.

One of the things I've learned about the various cables sets for solar wiring: they are easy to adapt.  I've bought cables and trimmed connectors off and wired my solar controllers "correctly" for the SAE port since I figured out the port.  I've learned how to crimp wires together and make my own cables.  I have battery clamp cables that I cut off the ends and exposed a bit of wire and used from the solar controller directly to the battery.  All sorts of little things like that.  I now have solar controllers with permanently wired SAE "dongles".  I added SAE plugs to the ends of my solar controller cables and my setup is literally plug and play.  No fiddling at all.  Not as "pretty" as some of the very nice installs we admire here, but compared to my first setups, they are much easier to use and extremely flexible.  I've learned so much about crimping wires, gland nuts, equipment boxes, cables, etc.  

Once you learn how to properly wire a panel to a controller, and a controller to the battery, solar is very easy.  Most of the confusion is the various cables that Renogy hung from their controllers over the years that then required another cable to adapt, etc.  

Once I figured out the SAE port and how ridiculously easy it was to work with, I made my own cables from the controller to the port.  My "Optimate" adapter (which everyone had "way back when" is gathering dust somewhere in the bottom of a toolbox.

This thread shows the types of boxes and solutions that other owners have used. 

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7432/our-portable-solar-suitcase-setup/p1