Tip for getting the stabilizers down the first time?

mickietucsmickietucs Member Posts: 717
When I got my T@B to the storage facility and got her unhooked, chocked, etc., I tried to deploy the stablizers but wasn't able to get them down (to be honest I didn't spend a lot of time on that task as it appeared a monsoon was going to hit so I wanted to get home). I'm assuming since it's a new unit, they're stiff and not "broken in" but does anyone have a tip to get that first turn or two started? I don't have a drill or adapter (yet) and think once they come down the first time, I'll be okay putting them up/down - I may ask the guys at the storage place but thought I'd check on the forum first.
Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.


You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!

Comments

  • bgualtieribgualtieri Member Posts: 272
    I think once they get started they deploy fine.  I'm careful not to crank them too hard either in the up or down positions. "Finger tight" should be good enough. Those boys at Tom's Camperland must have cranked yours hard. My guess is that once you get them started they will be fine.
    2015 T@b S Max | 2015 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited | was PHX East Valley, now Dallas!
  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited August 2015
    Muscle em Michele :-) ... Just got to get them out of that extreme up position. Once you do that they'll be just fine.
    Lubricant sprays seem to attract and collect dirt if you're on back roads a lot. I have to get down underneith with a wire brush and clean them or they're extremely hard to get up/down.
  • mash2mash2 Member Posts: 581
    Second for silicone spray.  Once they are loose, I clean the threads with a cloth to avoid dirt clogging them over the long run.  

    If you go the drill route make sure it is not an impact drill.  I'm lazy and like using a drill.  If they are really tight be careful, the drill will kick back.  Sounds like the dealer may have been a bit aggressive at making sure they are up.  
  • mickietucsmickietucs Member Posts: 717
    I have some silicone spray so will try that when I go there this weekend. And will tackle this first early in the morning so it's not so freakin' hot and I can muscle em (well as much muscle as this 5'1" body can - ha!). I think once I can get them past that first turn or two I'll be fine. I tried doing it when Beth came to visit and was fine with those manually so right now no drill in the plan (but thanks Sandra - my wimpy 9v drill is so out of date and the battery doesn't charge well --- I'll probably get a new one at some point). Thanks!
    Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.


    You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!

  • JandJ92010JandJ92010 Member Posts: 304
    Just remember that to lower the jacks, turn the screw to the right, that will bring 'em down. I use a 18 volt drill on mine, I set the slip clutch at 1or 3 so as not to over tighten anything up or down.
    The HobbiT@B, 2015-L, towed by a2014 RAM C/V
  • mickietucsmickietucs Member Posts: 717
    Just remember that to lower the jacks, turn the screw to the right, that will bring 'em down. I use a 18 volt drill on mine, I set the slip clutch at 1or 3 so as not to over tighten anything up or down.
    Oh gosh - I thought it was always "righty-tighty" --- to unscrew something you turn it to the left and right to tighten - perhaps that was my problem! Duh.  I slipped the crank handle on and tried to turn it -- guess I'll need to try the opposite direction.

    Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.


    You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!

  • RollingLagrimaRollingLagrima Member Posts: 435
    Michelle, mine came down easy-peasy the first time, no need for spray or drill. 20-30 seconds spent messing with each one, max.  Try the other way. :)
    Sally, "PlaT@Bus" 2016 T@B Sofitel Maxx-S (plata=silver; SP), previously Little Guy 2014 Silver Shadow LE, TV -- 2013 Chevy Avalanche + two hounds.
  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    I think that direction thing got me the first time - Counterintuitive
  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,394
    I switched to the drill this year and wondered why I had waited so long.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    You're all whimps - Eat your spinach and you wouldn't need a drill.
  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,394
    PXLated said:
    You're all whimps - Eat your spinach and you wouldn't need a drill.
    It's just so much faster with the drill, which is really nice in high humidity.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    With all the other stuff to set up, in humidity, I'm sweating anyway so four cranks add little to my sweat quotient. You're wimps :-)
  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
  • MouseketabMouseketab Member Posts: 1,230
    On my Dutchmen T@B however, I used to use a drill, but stopped when I broke a "corner steady" nut. I have terrible luck with cordless drills so was bringing a powered drill. I have now gone back to the hand crank. One less thing to bring along.
    Carol
    MOUSE-KE-T@B
    2007 Dutchmen T@B Clamshell #2741
    2022 nuCamp T@B 320 CS-S
    2021 F-150 502A Lariat SuperCrew, 3.5 EcoBoost 4x2
    Harvest, AL
  • vitovito Member Posts: 181
    I started right out using my cordless drill, which works great but it means getting down on the ground to get the drill bit to the rear stabilizers. With my artificial knees, getting down on the ground is a big deal. So after two camping trips I have switched back to the hand crank. Takes only a minute longer, and there is no problem reaching the screw on the rear stabilizers. And its one less thing to fail while I am away from home. A dead battery on a cordless drill is a problem, a manual crank is pretty foolproof. Of course I could take the battery charger with me as well, but my list of things to take is already big enough. 
    2016 T@b S Maxx
    2011 Subaru Outback
    Rockford, Illinois
  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    I have a folding stool that I sit on so I don't have to put my poor knees on the ground.  It works very well with the cordless drill.  I know exactly where the hand crank is and it will stay in its little cubby unless I really need it.
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
  • mickietucsmickietucs Member Posts: 717
    I'm hoping the manual cranking counts as my upper body workout (as well as all the other things I see as part of the entire setting up/tearing down process) - it appears camping is physically tasking --- but that's okay. A nice relaxing evening outside with a cold one at the end of the day sounds about right.
    Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.


    You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!

  • RollingLagrimaRollingLagrima Member Posts: 435
    It really is not a hard crank. The worst part is getting down there If you have bad knees or bending over if you have a bad back.  The actual motion involved really has no resistance or need for brute force at all.  The stabilizers on my Siver Shadow (different style) were harder to operate (required getting down to within 5 inches of the ground, yanking the things sideways with significant force while balancing down there, and then guiding them down to the ground).  I deployed those um, maybe twice, ever...I like the T@b ones. They make sense, and are worth the effort as they do damper rock and sway as you are moving around inside. 
    Sally, "PlaT@Bus" 2016 T@B Sofitel Maxx-S (plata=silver; SP), previously Little Guy 2014 Silver Shadow LE, TV -- 2013 Chevy Avalanche + two hounds.
  • JandJ92010JandJ92010 Member Posts: 304
    PXLated said:
    You're all whimps - Eat your spinach and you wouldn't need a drill.
    So, call me wimpy, just don't call me late for supper.
    The HobbiT@B, 2015-L, towed by a2014 RAM C/V
  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    When (if) I loan my drill, it never leaves my sight......and I did buy two of the stabilizer bits for it.  I don't want to be without it!
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
  • mannymanny Member Posts: 108
    I had to add my  2 cents in   All I do when I get back home  is lower the stabilizers  spray off with  a good blast  with the garden hose..  let dry..    I have never had problem  with the screw type  or step down  stabilizers...  NO silicone spray or grease..  Have had campers for 40 yrs..   BTW   I did cut my hand crank down and added 15 " ext. to it  use cordless drill  to get to rear ones...  Everyone  have a safe Labor Day weekend...   M@nny  2015 T@B -L Max
    2017  T@B CS-S Max ...  2020 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E
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