Installing a new Jack

SLJ

The original front jack on my T@B worked fine with my SUV as it was far enough back to allow the rear hatch to open. I switched to a small pick-up over the Winter and the TAB's forward facing jack handle would block the tailgate from being lowered when the T@B was hitched to the pick-up. The solution was to find a jack that could be installed with the crank handle on the side, not the front so my tailgate would drop. I did not want a removable jack assembly (like the JACK-E-UP) but larger pick-up owners may have to use one.

I found the Trailer Valet Center Mount Tongue Jack that could be mounted at a 90 degree angle so the jack handle would not be in the way of the tailgate when lowered. As a plus, the jack handle can be quickly removed (no tools required) and an included adapter slides on the jack to allow the use of a power drill to raise and lower the jack if you wish. It's available in a 2,000 and 5,000 pound version. Both are the same dimensions. I chose the 5K jack as it looked like the top could be removed for lubrication.

I did run into two unexpected install problems. The jack hole on the lower tongue plate needed to be enlarged slightly to allow the jack post to fit through it. Quick fix with a drill and small grinding wheel and a shot of paint to keep the ground edge from rusting.

The second problem required an additional part. The larger problem installing the Trailer Valet Jack on my 2021 T@B was my original T@B jack has a trapezoid shaped base, and the tongue of the T@B has a plate welded to it that backs up the front of the jack's mounting flange (see picture 1 below). The new Trailer Valet jack has a round base that overlaps the welded plate on the tongue of the T@B (picture 2). For strength the baseplate of the jack should be bolted to a solid smooth surface, not just sitting on three bolts and a bunch of washers (picture 2).

The solution is a pre drilled ½" plate manufactured by Sea Biscuit Metal Designs (picture 3) that raises and provides a solid surface for the jack flange to sit on and be securely bolted down using the same bolt pattern as the original jack (pictures 3, 4, 5). Once I had the plate it was a quick install of the three bolts to complete the installation (picture 6 below).

The new Trailer Valet Jack works smoothly, requires less effort, and the handle clears my front mounted spare tire. The included drill attachment is a plus for those that don't want to use a hand crank.

Note that the Sea Biscuit Metal Designs plate is not currently listed on their web site so you'll have to contact them.

Maxcamp

Looks good. 

Yes the jack interferes with tailgate on any small or large truck.

My first solution- I already owned a side mounted jack that pivots horizontal between usages.  Four threaded rods and 7/8x1-5/8  unistrut both faces of side of A frame, plus 1/4" steel shims to level out an uneven surface.  Ditched after one season due to excessive play in the pivot turntable.  Made for a wobbly trailer.
I did purchase a different brand and promptly returned unused, featured similar excess play.

Second solution- purchased a Jack-E-Up removable center post jack.  Like it much better, more stable, albeit a nuisance to store in back of truck. 
Had to modify the mount location similar to your experience.
Made up three 1/2" plate steel spacers under the bolt locations rather than one large plate.  First round was a stack of fender washers with one edge clipped to clear the hitch mounting bolts.

OEM top plate of jack location is thin cold-formed bent plate, tapped to accept 5/16 or 3/8 coarse thread bolts set from top.  I rejected these as weak when moving the trailer, with little thread holding and under tension rather than compression.  Drilled out the bolt holes a bit and through bolted with 3/8 Grade 8 bolts and bottom nuts and lock washers. 

My wife still talks about the 'nantucket sleigh ride' she took in the camper during one of our first detachments which happened to be on a hilly site.  I keep the chains hooked up while detaching and jacking now!  I also use a bottom plate and not the wheel.

asfizer

Maxcamp8 said:

 

 My wife still talks about the 'nantucket sleigh ride' she took in the camper during one of our first detachments which happened to be on a hilly site.  I keep the chains hooked up while detaching and jacking now!  I also use a bottom plate and not the wheel.

What I do to keep from giving my wife that 'Nantucket sleigh ride' is, before detaching from the ball or unhooking the chains I block my trailer's wheels first. I failed to do that with my small utility trailer one time and while unhooking the chains I was lucky all I ended up losing was one finger nail. Even though the trailer was empty at the time and on fairly level surface it rolled back and I got a couple fingers between the two chains. Yes, my trailer has a wheel on the jack too. First time I think I ever did that, unhook the chains before blocking. The last time too.

SLJ

I only use the wheel when parked in the garage. I always use a foot plate when towing as the wheel sticks to far down and I want all the clearance I can get. Haven't really needed the jack wheel when camping either.
I have tied the tongue to a tree before when camped on a slope...

BogieMeister

I have the perfect solution. I purchased an "Ultimate Jack" which allows the entire tube assembly to be lifted out once the trailer is connected to the hitch. I also removed the handle and modified the crank shaft so I could connect a drill for raising and lowering. I purchased mine at Tractor Supply for75.00.
The Ultimate Trailer Jack 2,000 lb. Lift Capacity Trailer Jack, RDJ-2K at Tractor Supply Co.

AnOldUR

@SLJ Curious if you could have ground a flat on the round flange instead of purchasing the plate? That worked for the Ultimate Jack installation on our 320S with similar interference.

SLJ

BogieMeister said:

I have the perfect solution. I purchased an "Ultimate Jack" which allows the entire tube assembly to be lifted out once the trailer is connected to the hitch. I also removed the handle and modified the crank shaft so I could connect a drill for raising and lowering. I purchased mine at Tractor Supply for75.00.
The Ultimate Trailer Jack 2,000 lb. Lift Capacity Trailer Jack, RDJ-2K at Tractor Supply Co.

I thought about a removable jack but decided against one after looking at them as I wanted something more secure that would still have a foot when towing. The jack I used comes with a drill adapter and removable hand crank. 

SLJ

AnOldUR said:

@SLJ Curious if you could have ground a flat on the round flange instead of purchasing the plate? That worked for the Ultimate Jack installation on our 320S with similar interference.

You could grind to a flat on the front plate. It would be quite a bit of grinding and if you needed to replace the jack on the road (I did once) you'd have to do it on a replacement also. The plate just makes it so any standard jack, bike rack, etc. fits with no modification.