2022 T@B CSS. I’ve read up on troubleshooting pump/water problems, but nothing has worked in my attempt to get the system pressurized and working.
When I dewinterized last week, I sanitised by drawing a bleach solution (far too strong because I followed the NuCamp video) from a bucket through a hose (a pretty long one) into the fresh water tank. After flushing and flipping the Alde bypass, I had hot and cold water. But the pump came on for a second every 10 or 15 seconds once the system was pressurized. I hoped this would sort itself out.
At the campground I refilled the fresh water tank. At first, things worked, but the pump seemed to keep running. Later, however, there was no pressure and no water coming from the fixtures. (I know the tank level lights are inexact, but they showed the tank full).
I ran the pump with a fixture open to see if I could push air out of the system. No dice.
I filled a short hose with water and tried to manually blow it into the system to remove air. I wasn’t able to blow the water in through the Nautilus.
I removed and inspected the filter cap and cleaned the screen.
I tried to suck water into the system (through a short hose) as I did when I dewinterized. The pump ran but there was no suction, just - a sloshing sound from the area of the fresh water tank.
Loosened the filter cap and the pump input and output fittings and ran the pump, but no water came out.
Connected to city water, the system works fine.
There is no water leaking anywhere and I’ve checked as many of the fittings as I can find to make sure nothing’s loose.
At this point, I’m stumped. This is only the second season I’ve used the plumbing and it worked well last year, although I used it very little. Thanks for any advice!
Comments
With Nautilus set for Dry Camping,
Blow air into hose (tank).
This might clear a clog if the inlet hose is indeed clogged.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
My 2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite does not include the Nautilus system, but I encountered the same "no pressure/water" issue, which was very similar to what you have encountered. It was caused by caulking and plastic shavings in the water line (having occurred during the manufacturing process.) There have been a few similar reports in the past. Here's my post regarding my experience:
No fresh water —Resolved! - Page 2 (vanillacommunity.com)
I believe I ultimately resolved the lack of pressure/water by disconnecting the water line at the fresh water holding tank connection and blowing out the line with compressed air. I also tested the operation of the water pump using a bucket of water for the pump to draw water from (to simulate drawing water from the holding tank.) There is some discussion about doing that on the first page of the above discussion thread, so you should read the entire discussion.
Also, remove and clean the pump's filter screen. Easy to do (it just screws off.) It can collect debris and restrict the flow of water. Sometimes, air can get introduced there if it is loose, but don't over-tighten it when replacing it.
Here are a couple more discussions that may be helpful:
Plastic shavings in waterline and screen before pump (vanillacommunity.com)
Super Unhappy Right Now 9:30 pm EDT July 9 TAB 400 (vanillacommunity.com)
And, one more discussion thread for you. It has to do with winterizing trailers with the Nautilus system, but reading through it may give you some ideas with troubleshooting your current issue:
Nautilus Suction Remedy (vanillacommunity.com)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
It sounds like you have done all the usual troubleshooting (checking plumbing fittings, looking for visible leaks, etc.), so I am running out of suggestions. I have read discussions that mentioned the Nautilus valves being set incorrectly, which created problems. Again, I can't help with that, but maybe someone else will chime in on whether that could be a factor.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Then
- - reset the Nautilus for CIty Water, attach city water to fully force any air pockets out.
- - on my rig the Alde HW tank always causes air pocket problems.
- - First one-by-one run all cold water faucets until you have a smooth flow
- - next run the sink hot faucet
- - raise and lever the tongue jack (just like helping Alde glycol air pockets to clear)
- - with tongue Up/Down run sink hot faucet a good period of time.
After that, return Nautilus to Dry Camp Mode and run the Pump.
I've run my pump for longggg periods of time with no damage.
If you don't have normal operation - - - Every few minutes while the Pump is Running quickly open/close the sink cold faucet - - - within 5-10 minutes you should have normal pump and pressure operation.
If all the above still results in no normal operation.
Might be time to consider taking the Pump Apart.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
“The only thing I would want to doublecheck is when you connected to city water, did you run water through all the fixtures? Both hot and cold water sides. Even an airlock in one spot could prevent the pump from working. So running city water through every fixture can help push out any air. Typically, after doing this the pump will then prime and produce water.”
This didn’t work for me.
“pull off the front housing that is attached by the 8 screws. Below that is the valve assembly which is black and has four rubber cups pressed in the back of it. If there is any debris on or around the valve assembly the pump will not prime. Also you can look at the check valve. When you remove that front housing, flip it over and the check valve is spring loaded in the middle. Sometimes they can get stuck so simply pushing on it with your finger can free it and it should push in, then pop back into place.”
I’ll try this over the weekend.
If you have not already found them - - - Most Shurflo pump model datasheets are on the web.
The attached PDF is for the 4008 Series that my rig has.
Document includes an expanded parts view . . . not great detail, still helpful.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
I do not disagree with disassembling the pump, mainly because it helps to rule out a blocked pump. However, from what you have described, it seems like the pump is operating properly. What stands out to me is your observation that "the pump came on for a second every 10 or 15 seconds once the system was pressurized." The cycling "on" and "off" is usually indicative of a leak and/or loose connection in the plumbing system. It could be behind a wall, such as a shower connection, which makes it hard to find.
Anyway, I wish you the best of luck in getting it resolved. I will be following this discussion, because plumbing (and electrical) issues can be very discouraging. Each owner's experience is a learning opportunity for others. BUT, I have confidence that you will ultimately get it figured out.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
SW Montana USA
Take a close look at all the connections in close proximity to the Nautilus system. There could be a very minor (unnoticeable) leak, which is allowing air into the water line. For example, see the following discussion:
Small leak in one of the hoses in the area of the alde (vanillacommunity.com)
Check your shower faucet/hose - - - confirm it is not open. (This may not apply, because I think you may have the hand-held hose that works as a bathroom sink faucet and shower sprayer. If so, then I am guessing you only press down on the spray handle for water to flow. Again, I am not familiar with how that design operates, but I assume that you do not have to open a separate faucet valve.)
1. I am assuming your fresh water tank is full (or full enough to operate the pump.) Are you able to drain your fresh water tank without any problem? If you have not tried draining it (because you are too busy trying to get water to flow through the plumbing lines), give that a try just to see if helps. Let it run for a few minutes.
2. Stick a thin probe (e.g., weed whacker line) into the fresh water overflow tube to confirm that there is nothing blocking the tube.
3. Open and drain your hot and cold low-point water drain valves for two or three minutes to assist in forcing air out of the water lines.
4. Check the Alde pressure relief valve (yellow flapper) for a leak. If nothing is visible, open and close the flapper a few times. Maybe it is somehow slightly opening when you are trying to pull water from the fresh water tank. (NOTE: I do not know how recently you used the Alde hot water heater, but if you have, you need to open the pressure relief valve occasionally (i.e., every 10 days, or sooner, depending on your usage) to relieve the pressure and create an air cushion in the hot water tank.)
5. If you have an outside shower, check it to confirm that the hot and cold faucet knobs are fully closed.
6. Re-check all your Nautilus valve settings to confirm they are correctly oriented for camping. Specifically, the "bypass" valve.
EACH TIME AFTER YOU TRY 1, 3, and 4 ABOVE, run the water pump and see if anything changes. Try running both the hot and cold-water lines, both at the kitchen sink and shower. (I presume you have a cassette toilet, correct?)
If you have not already done so, search for "pressure switch" (for the water pump) and review those discussion regarding adjusting the switch. Additionally, you can check YouTube for videos describing how to do the adjustment. Occasionally, that has solved water pressure problems.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
1. I’ve twice drained the fresh water tank.
2. I stuck a zip tie into the drain tube as part of dewinterizing, but this time I got under the camper and blew into the tube. No blockage.
3. Opened the low point drains as suggested.
4. Alde pressure relief valve looks good, opened it for 10 seconds or so to relieve pressure.
5&6. Shower and Nautilus good (checked many times prior).
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L V6
@Jfrei the air vent/overflow is a small white 90* elbow about 1/4" diameter to the upper right of the tank drain levers.
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
Thank you!