Changed Batteries now SmartShunt not powering up

Parlando

I just installed two 100A Deep Cell Batteries.  Afterwards I was checking my Victron SmartShunt and it isn't powering up nor coming up as a device. (The power on blue light doesn't come up). I was careful to replicate the wiring that I had on before and which has worked great for years. I checked the Victron fuse and it looks good. Any ideas are appreciated.  I'm going to dinner and will check for helpful replies when I get home.

pthomas745

What trailer?  If you can, a picture might help with getting some extra "eyes" on your wiring.  The shunt takes power from that very small red cable that goes to the positive side of the battery.  I think there were two possible choices for where that wire was placed in the shunt, so you might take a look at that.  The newer shunts have a slightly different design than the older ones, so that picture might be helpful

Parlando

Thank you. I have a 2015 320 Boondock.  I will take a photograph of the set-up tomorrow morning.  Yes, I'm sure that I have the very small red cable going to the correct positive side of one of the batteries, where it was working before the switch.  One thing I'm going to check in the morning is that I remember that the small red wire connects to the the SmartShunt by being inserted into a small compression hole. I'll check that it didn't come out.  I've heard conflicting instructions that the small red wire connects at the bottom or at the top of the positive terminal. Does that really matter?

Sharon_is_SAM

The small red cable that provides power to the shunt has a fuse (at least mine did).  Ours got wet once and the shunt would not work.  Also, as Pthomas745 noted, there is a specific port to install the cable into the shunt.  It is Vbatt +.

Parlando

Here is the photo of my installation. I did check the fuse, but after breakfast I will pull it and check for continuity just in case. I looked and the newer SmartShunts have the red wire permanently attached to the shunt, rather that having it have to go in a port.

Parlando

The Victron SmartShunt fuse is good. I tested it with the continuity tester.  The 30amp fuse for the trailer was bad, but I replaced it and that didn't make any difference for the SmartShunt which makes sense, since I can usually use the SmartShunt even when I have the fuse out. 

Yoshi_TAB

Hi, 

A couple of thoughts, if/when you remove the fuse, check for 12V on the incoming voltage side of the fuse to see if you have voltage up to that point.  Same for the stub that goes into the shunt.  Check for voltage there.  I once had a bad connector that goes into the shunt.  It failed from being flexed or bent too many times. 

pthomas745

Which version of shunt is this one? I see the red cable coming from the positive side of the battery, but that cable seems to be going to the positive side of the shunt.  Over on the left side of the photo, under the handle, there is what seems to be a "ferrule" type wire sticking out.  Could that be the wire that should connect to the "VBatt+" input on the shunt itself?

Parlando

Both batteries test at 12.54. 

Large cable from battery + to SmartShunt has continuity.

Just a reminder, all cables are hooked up exactly as they have been for years. Just switched out two new batteries, SmartShunt will not power up and no Device found on app. Thanks

Sharon_is_SAM

Sounds like the issue is that it is not pairing with your phone.  https://www.victronenergy.com/media/pg/VictronConnect_Manual/en/troubleshooting.html

Parlando

Got it!  I realized that I had connected the positive rather than the negative battery terminal to the bolt on the Smart Shunt. Changed it and it is working now. Thanks for your inputs.