How Long do LPG Regulators Typical Last

CatDaddy

Last fall I purchased a 2022 320S BD from the original (first) owner. He claims he put less than 6k miles on it. On the way home from picking it up, I stayed one night in an RV park. The heat worked, but I was connected to shorepower, so it probably was using electricity for the heat. I'm not sure how the priority was set on the Alde system.

In preparation for a shakedown trip, I tried firing up the stove and the Alde system on gas. I couldn't get either to work. I could not hear or smell any gas at the stove with the Alde system off. I'm pretty sure that zero gas was flowing. The previous owner suggested that the excess flow valve in the pigtail might be stuck closed. I disconnected it from the LP regulator and cracked open the LP tank valve. Gas flowed just fine.

I also tried a second LP tank with no change.

That really only left the LP regulator so I went to a nearby Ace Hardware and bought a vertical-mount, two stage LP regulator, and some LP approved teflon tape. The regulator I purchased is a two-stage regulator sold under the brand "Mr. Heater", but the name on the casting was "Chen Fong". I installed it in the trailer.  That fixed it; the Alde and stove fired right up. 

Which leaves me with a few questions for the forum:

1. Would one reasonably expect the LP regulator to fail after less than three years of very light use? I am not impressed.
   
2. The OEM regulator installed in the trailer was marked "Fairview GR-9950XF". That part number doesn't appear on the Fairview website or anyplace on the internet except eBay which makes me think it is an outdated part number, but presumably the "XF" indicates "Excess Flow". Fairview says their two-stage valve with excess flow control is GR-9554. If the excess flow valve is in the pigtail, do I need another excess flow valve in the regulator? The regulator I purchased at the hardware store does not appear to have excess flow control. Do I need excess flow control in the regulator?
   
3. Is there a better, more reliable, longer-lasting LP regulator I can buy?
   
4. Is the black cap on the GR-9950 just a dust cover? It was a bit loose when I remove the regulator from the trailer.
   

Thanks for your help!

ScottG

I can't answer most of your questions, but can tell you I just finished my tenth camping season with my original regulator.

Of course, now that I've said that...  :-)

pthomas745

There are two pieces here that need to be looked at for proper delivery of propane (beside the tank).  The regulator, which you found.  And, the propane "pigtail", that hose that connects the tank to the regulator.  I've had several "pigtails" simply fail, one with a very obvious leak, and one with a not so obvious leak.  (I replaced one regulator in my 2017).  These items in the trailer always seem to be overlooked when propane devices have issues.

So, yes, both regulators and pigtails do fail.  The thread below has a long discussion about issues with some Dometic stoves not working at altitude.  There are discussions of the various parts of the setup. I posted a picture of the my (replaced) propane regulator opened up to show what is inside: a thin rubber membrane and a spring.  It is a very simple device.  There is also a discussion on page 3 of the thread by an owner who learned how to measure their "water column inches" of propane delivery and adjust the regulator.  We don't see too many descriptions of this sort of thing.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13602/dometic-stove-doesn-t-light-at-higher-elevations/p2

This web page has a description of the propane setup, including a schematic of a regulator.  The black cap you mention covers the adjustment screw for the regulator.

http://www.rvdoctor.com/2001/01/avoiding-pitfalls-of-rv-propane-system.html

SLJ

Shut the tank off, open a burner on the stove for a minute and then close it. Then go back out and open the tank valve slowly. Sometimes the rush of propane from opening the tank valve too fast will kick in the high flow shut off in the regulator.

CatDaddy

SLJ said:

Shut the tank off, open a burner on the stove for a minute and then close it. Then go back out and open the tank valve slowly. Sometimes the rush of propane from opening the tank valve too fast will kick in the high flow shut off in the regulator.

I actually tried that several times. I even disconnected the pigtail from the tank. No change. Didn't matter how slowly I turned on the gas; no gas ever flowed.

CatDaddy

pthomas745 said:

There are two pieces here that need to be looked at for proper delivery of propane (beside the tank).  The regulator, which you found.  And, the propane "pigtail", that hose that connects the tank to the regulator.  I've had several "pigtails" simply fail, one with a very obvious leak, and one with a not so obvious leak.  (I replaced one regulator in my 2017).  These items in the trailer always seem to be overlooked when propane devices have issues.

So, yes, both regulators and pigtails do fail.  The thread below has a long discussion about issues with some Dometic stoves not working at altitude.  There are discussions of the various parts of the setup. I posted a picture of the my (replaced) propane regulator opened up to show what is inside: a thin rubber membrane and a spring.  It is a very simple device.  There is also a discussion on page 3 of the thread by an owner who learned how to measure their "water column inches" of propane delivery and adjust the regulator.  We don't see too many descriptions of this sort of thing.

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/13602/dometic-stove-doesn-t-light-at-higher-elevations/p2

Thanks for the information.  I found the RV Doctor website but it really doesn't address my issue. As I wrote in my OP, I did check the excess flow valve in the pigtail and it was not stuck closed.

Do I need a LP regulator with excess flow control? I ask because the regulator I bought at the hardware store doesn't have it, but I suspect the original regulator did.

pthomas745

@CatDaddy thank you very much, I learned something new tonight.  For some reason, I thought the "excess flow valve" was part of the propane tank.  (I realize there are protective devices inside the tank, also).  But I always read the "open the tank valve slowly" advice was to keep the "inside the tank" device from activating, not realizing the pigtail is actually what is being "reset". 

CatDaddy

pthomas745 said:

@CatDaddy thank you very much, I learned something new tonight.  For some reason, I thought the "excess flow valve" was part of the propane tank.  (I realize there are protective devices inside the tank, also).  But I always read the "open the tank valve slowly" advice was to keep the "inside the tank" device from activating, not realizing the pigtail is actually what is being "reset". 

There's an Overflow Protection Device (OPD) built into modern propane tanks, but no excess flow protection that I know of.  I'm just confused as to why both the pigtail and the regulator have excess flow protection.

Carsoncitysmith

There is propane blowing out of my regulator someplace.  It is mounted behind the tool caddy on my tongue so I can't see it clearly, but I can feel it blowing on my fingers.   2021 400. Does anyone know a model name and number for these things?  Looks like plastic to me. 

CatDaddy

Carsoncitysmith said:

There is propane blowing out of my regulator someplace.  It is mounted behind the tool caddy on my tongue so I can't see it clearly, but I can feel it blowing on my fingers.   2021 400. Does anyone know a model name and number for these things?  Looks like plastic to me. 

I don't know anything about a 400 but my 320S BD as a single (not dual) tank LPG regulator designed to be vertically mounted.  It's Fairview part number Fairview GR-9950XF. It is made of diecast zinc with a white plastic cover. If you have two tanks, and/or if it's mounted horizontally, then you'll need a different regulator.