Broken White Plastic Door Catch/Latch at Bottom of Door (2015 S Max)

[Deleted User]

Hi, I guess it was going to happen sooner or later, but today on just my third outing, a friend tried to close the door on the trailer but didn't know it was latched at the bottom.  The screws ripped right out of the fiber glass (see photo of latch, I forgot to take pick of the trailer)  I tried putting super glue in the screw holes, but it did nothing.  Any suggestions on reattaching this bracket thing?  Maybe gorilla glue?

Thanks,
Robyn

Nomad

Someone else did this recently - within the last 2-3 weeks as I recall - and there was a discussion of fix methods. Try a search and see what you can come up with.

[Deleted User]

Hi PXLated, for the life of me I could not think of what terms to use in a search so I just posted my post. I will try to search again now that you have confirmed a thread does exist.  Also, the pic is not upside down. This is how it is mounted on my door with the opening at the bottom.

Nomad

Looks upside down to me also, mine has the wide slot at the top.
I tried a search also and couldn't find it. It wasn't a main thread but one topic hit upon within the thread. Hopefully someone will pop in here with the solution.

Michigan_Mike

robyn769 said:

I tried putting super glue in the screw holes, but it did nothing.  Any suggestions on reattaching this bracket thing?  Maybe gorilla glue?

The bracket is upside down and needs to be flipped over with the holder channel positioned on the bottom.  Super glue won't work because the hole has been ripped out and the screws have nothing to wedge and hold to.  

You could use toothpicks to fill up the inside of the old holes (shoot in a little wood glue too for bonding) and try installing the screws.  Let this set up for a few hours and try re-installing the bracket with the screws.  And if that doesn't work consider the following:

• Use larger/thicker screws, but use the same length screws.
• You could also fill in the old screw holes with a small amount of silicone caulk, move the bracket slightly up or down, hold it in place and mark the screw holes with a pencil, use a small drill bit to re-drill new holes and screw the new screws back in to re-attach the bracket. 
• Be careful using any Gorilla glue as it expands and could leech outside the screw holes during expansion, attach to the sidewall/paint and create some issues therein.   

jkjenn

Mine came out while traveling. I was able to put it back in, but noted the screws had originally been caulked. I will be recalling mine.

RZRBUG

Not much there for the screws to anchor to.  All but two of mine were loose in both the latch and holder.  I discovered this before they came out, so I removed both, squirted a little caulk in every hole, then replaced the screws and let it set up.  So far, no problems.

BTW:  I know this has been mentioned before, but it is a good idea to check all screws both inside and outside the trailer and snug them down.  I do this at least once a year and nearly always find a few loose.  (There are dozens of them.)  Bouncing down the road will tend to loosen them.  DO NOT over-tighten as they will strip because there is not much there for them to anchor to.  ("...not much there to which to anchor" if that makes your coffee taste better.)

Nomad

RZRBUG - I find I need to check/tighten all the screws every 3-4 months with all the miles I put on things start jiggling loose.

mash2

what kind of caulk do you use?

RZRBUG

I use 100% clear silicone designed for interior/exterior use.  It remains flexible and provides good adhesion.  I wouldn't recommend the kind made for kitchen and bath.  You can usually find it in a small squeeze tube if you don't have need of the large cartridge.  And, the screws can still be removed, with a little force, if the need arises.  If you use something like liquid nails, it's sort of permanent.

mash2

Thanks.

Sgtjohn

You know, you could consider anchors, the opposite side of the work would be unseen.  Or, sometimes when this happens to me I position everything up 1/4-1/2" and reinstall and no one knows about the screw holes beneath.  If for some reason partial holes are visible, I caulk them with the same color if possible.

[Deleted User]

Sandra said:

This might work (3 1/2") - http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/3-1-2-inch-plastic-t-entry-door-holder-white/49604

Hi Sandra, yes, this is my exact door latch that is broken.  I called my dealer and he told me to use drywall anchors. That worked on three of the screws, but one just spins.  I doubt I will use the door latch in the future for fear it will put out again. At least it is reattached so it doesn't look bad with just four ugly holes in the fiberglass.

[Deleted User]

Many great suggestions above. I wish I had come back sooner to read all the responses. I would have liked to use the silicone first then the drywall anchors.  Well, if it comes out again, I will definitely try some of RZRBUG and Michigan Mike's suggestions.

1Charlie

what about powerful magnets glued to both door and siding