Open vs Closed drain valves

ELK

Hi all
In the midst of winterizing  (2015 S) ...My valves seem to have been put on opposite to the photo in the new WInterizing manual...so I am assuming that a valve parallel to the hose is open and perpindicular is closed. Is that correct?

Also...the FW tank drain is behind the stairs and then on the drivers side underneath there are 2 draining valves...water mostly comes out of one, dripped out of other.... Those 3 are the ones I'm waiting for to drain before I blow out the system. Right?

One more!! My new air compressor does not quite lock onto the blowout plug....but it's snug... Is that Ok?
TIA
E

NCT@BS

Parallel is open, perpendicular is closed. Crossover valve between red and blue lines should be open. Open pressure relief valve (yellow). Run the water pump for about ten minutes. Open the faucets to allow air into the lines. Even if the trailer is level most of the water comes out the back of my TAB S. close all the valves to blow out the system and open and close each valve 4 or 5 times. Allow the compressor to recover each time. I dont think a tight fit is necessary. It will just take the compressor a little longer to recover. No more than 30 psi.

jkjenn

ELK said:

Hi all
In the midst of winterizing  (2015 S) ...My valves seem to have been put on opposite to the photo in the new WInterizing manual...so I am assuming that a valve parallel to the hose is open and perpindicular is closed. Is that correct?

Also...the FW tank drain is behind the stairs and then on the drivers side underneath there are 2 draining valves...water mostly comes out of one, dripped out of other.... Those 3 are the ones I'm waiting for to drain before I blow out the system. Right?

One more!! My new air compressor does not quite lock onto the blowout plug....but it's snug... Is that Ok?
TIA
E

Mine were backwards, as well. @jdargisgave me a tip on how to test it in this thread so I could be sure I had it right.