You betcha --- and when I got here yesterday I loved the temps but now some system is moving in with cooler temps, rain at some point and the dreaded wind - I had to turn on the Alde this morning! Hoping to get a hike in before rain starts. May leave earlier than planned. We'll see.
Speaking of the Alde - it seems to make more of a "racket" when it kicks on (then stops). Could the altitude have an effect on it?
Lunafemme - might want to email Ed/Elsie so they are aware you are in the group having issues with the window. Think they're working on a fix.
Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
So far our front window is staying open. If the problem starts I am going to use some sand paper on the support rods. The added friction should solve the problem.
So far our front window is staying open. If the problem starts I am going to use some sand paper on the support rods. The added friction should solve the problem.
Would you post if that works? Thanks.
Michele, Tucson, AZ. TV - '13 F150 & '16 T@Bitha special order.
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
As I mentioned, mine stays open but the wind can blow it closed - But, I was in high winds the last two days - enough to blow my tripod over which has never happened before - the wind was right into the front window and it stayed open the whole time. Since some are having problems yet I'm not, it's probably not the mechanism overall, just some faulty ones I'd think.
My T@B is at the dealer for two things at the moment:
1. They are replacing the front window struts hoping that will fix the issue of the window not staying open.
2. Trying to fix an issue with the electronic tank gauges. The one I noticed is for the grey water tank. At one point it was showing 35% full. Then after 2 showers, it read only 6% full! Looked for water under the T@B, but none. At the dealer, we got it up to 35% again and after adding more water, it read 10% full. Anyone else seeing this?
My T@B is at the dealer for two things at the moment:
1. They are replacing the front window struts hoping that will fix the issue of the window not staying open.
2. Trying to fix an issue with the electronic tank gauges. The one I noticed is for the grey water tank. At one point it was showing 35% full. Then after 2 showers, it read only 6% full! Looked for water under the T@B, but none. At the dealer, we got it up to 35% again and after adding more water, it read 10% full. Anyone else seeing this?
If you list your second question under its own topic more people are likely to see it and reply. Just a thought.
jctangney - If the dealer doesn't get it fixed and you need help, do as Dalehelman suggests. Or if they do figure it out, let us know what the skinny was.
I just got word that the dealer "reportedly" has fixed both of my issues.
1. Front Window doesn't stay open
CORRECTION: CLEAN STRUTS SHAFT LOOSING UP BOTH SCREW ON KNOB COUNTER CLOCKWISE UNLATCH ALL 4 LATCHES X2 ON THE BUTTOM AND X2 ON BOTH SIDES OPENED WINDOW 1/4" 1/2' AND ALL THE WAY USED SCREW ON KNOBS AT BOTH STRUTS TO LOCK WINDOW OPEN WINDOW ITS WORKING PROPERLY AT THIS MOMENT
2. Grey tank not showing proper reading
CORRECTION: COMPLETED DIAG. FLOODED GRAY TANK FOUND BLUE AND BLACK WIRES MAKING FALSE CONNECTION AT TANK SENSOR CIRCUIT BOARD STYLE ON L/S OF GRAY TANK RE DO BOTH CONNECTIONS BY GRAY TANK TESTED GRAY TANK ALL STAGES OF ITS CAPACITY FULL AND WHEN DRAINNING ALL READING PROPERLY PUT UNDERBELLY BACK TOGETHER AND TANK MONITOR INSIDE
Just waiting for service adviser at B. Young RV (Milwaukie, OR) to do QC and call me to come pick it up.
I picked up my T@B yesterday afternoon. They did not replace the struts as cleaning them of grease, allowed them to work. However, it still requires that both sides be VERY tight before it will hold the front window open if it is just 2-4 inches open. I do think this is still a problem and hope the factory comes up with a change. The side windows work just fine.
We’ve always had this problem with just the front window. It seems to be just some people. I’ve just lived with it, but I was thinking perhaps some kind of clip would work to keep it from sliding... here are a couple of rough ideas...
Terry & Jody... 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road Appleton, WI
We've been having this problem too with our front window, and it seems to be more on one side that no matter how tight you turn the knob it still slides.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
We have the same problem with out 2018, it seems that the tightening bars are not easy to tighten. The side windows work because the window is mounted vertically but the front window is on an angle with the weight of the window wanting to push it shut.....
I recalled NOT having an issue, so to refresh my memory...went out & tried the front window. Stays open just as easily as the sides...2018 320S OB. FYI
4ncar, perhaps this was a 2016 problem, but CanyonTravelers has it too. Happy it is not your problem. I wouldn't call it a problem, just an annoyance. Most people just block the window open if it won't stay, but I am looking for a better way. I tried using some little clippy things my wife has in her desk and they seem to be easy to use, on and off... I am going to the shores of Lake Michigan this week, so I'll give it a try.
Terry & Jody... 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road Appleton, WI
Great idea! We carry a whole box of those little clippy things--among their many uses they are handy for resealing bags and closing up gaps in our awning screen panels.
Today I took a closer look at our one broken strut on the front window that will not tighten at all. I compared it to the remaining one that works & here's what I saw..
The working one at right had a piece inside the screw hole that was not present inside the broken strut; while the broken strut had a small plastic piece jammed inside the knob screw. I used a wire cutter to carefully grip the plastic piece & pulled it out from the screw knob..
The removed plastic piece is at right (about 1/4 inch long with a head on the end). I figured that because it was inside the screw, the head end was no longer able to reach the metal strut, no matter how much it was tightened. I also presume that it might have been overtightened to the point that it got jammed inside the screw & no longer worked. With that theory in mind, I figured that if I could insert something inside the screw, it may prevent the plastic piece from receding inside the screw & allow it to put pressure on the strut when tightened. For this, I used the 1/8" piece of common 12 AWG solid copper wire shown at left above (like that used in residential circuits. 14G might work too). I stuffed it into the hole in the screw, then inserted the tip of the plastic piece..
This allowed the plastic to push against the metal strut, so that it worked to provide support to the window. It was not able to totally support the window by itself, but almost. With both support's knobs tightened, there was no problem keeping the window open. I suspect that there may be more to the unbroken mechanism (plastic) than what I can see, and that over tightening may have broken the original structure such that my makeshift repair doesn't fully restore it. It's definitely a whole lot better though (had become totally useless before this). I'm guessing this mechanism just doesn't provide enough friction for the weight of these windows. I may try some sandpaper on the strut by rotating the paper around the strut to increase the friction, as Dalehelman suggested.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Comments
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
Speaking of the Alde - it seems to make more of a "racket" when it kicks on (then stops). Could the altitude have an effect on it?
Lunafemme - might want to email Ed/Elsie so they are aware you are in the group having issues with the window. Think they're working on a fix.
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
You never really travel alone. The world is full of friends waiting to get to know you!
My T@B is at the dealer for two things at the moment:
1. They are replacing the front window struts hoping that will fix the issue of the window not staying open.
2. Trying to fix an issue with the electronic tank gauges. The one I noticed is for the grey water tank. At one point it was showing 35% full. Then after 2 showers, it read only 6% full! Looked for water under the T@B, but none. At the dealer, we got it up to 35% again and after adding more water, it read 10% full. Anyone else seeing this?
2016 T@B S Max, near Portland, OR
Photo Galleries www.pbase.com/jctangney
1. Front Window doesn't stay open
2. Grey tank not showing proper reading
Just waiting for service adviser at B. Young RV (Milwaukie, OR) to do QC and call me to come pick it up.
2016 T@B S Max, near Portland, OR
Photo Galleries www.pbase.com/jctangney
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
2016 T@B S Max, near Portland, OR
Photo Galleries www.pbase.com/jctangney
2016 T@B S Max, near Portland, OR
Photo Galleries www.pbase.com/jctangney
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
2018 320S Outback
2016 NuCamp 320 T@B Max S
T@bbey Road
Appleton, WI
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5
2018 320S Outback
The working one at right had a piece inside the screw hole that was not present inside the broken strut; while the broken strut had a small plastic piece jammed inside the knob screw. I used a wire cutter to carefully grip the plastic piece & pulled it out from the screw knob..
The removed plastic piece is at right (about 1/4 inch long with a head on the end). I figured that because it was inside the screw, the head end was no longer able to reach the metal strut, no matter how much it was tightened. I also presume that it might have been overtightened to the point that it got jammed inside the screw & no longer worked. With that theory in mind, I figured that if I could insert something inside the screw, it may prevent the plastic piece from receding inside the screw & allow it to put pressure on the strut when tightened. For this, I used the 1/8" piece of common 12 AWG solid copper wire shown at left above (like that used in residential circuits. 14G might work too).
I stuffed it into the hole in the screw, then inserted the tip of the plastic piece..
This allowed the plastic to push against the metal strut, so that it worked to provide support to the window. It was not able to totally support the window by itself, but almost. With both support's knobs tightened, there was no problem keeping the window open. I suspect that there may be more to the unbroken mechanism (plastic) than what I can see, and that over tightening may have broken the original structure such that my makeshift repair doesn't fully restore it. It's definitely a whole lot better though (had become totally useless before this). I'm guessing this mechanism just doesn't provide enough friction for the weight of these windows. I may try some sandpaper on the strut by rotating the paper around the strut to increase the friction, as Dalehelman suggested.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods