2-way refrigerator

jschemel

Our 2-way refrigertor is not cold but the light is still working. Could this be a seperate fuse? If so where might the fuse be located?

JandJ92010

Sounds like too many "could be this or that's" to answer here.

jschemel

Thank you - yes we have tried alot of those I'm sure.
Have determined that so far this Norcold is not one of the recalled ones. Will contact Norcold and Pleasant Valley tomorrow.

jschemel

 I know others have had similar problems so this is what we found out and how we "fixed" it.                       

Our 2015 T@B CS-S has a Norcold NR740BB refrigerator located in the rear hatch-back kitchen.  The refrigerator was designed to be operated on 12VDC or 110VAC, and the dealer told us that it switched between the available power options.  We did notice that the refrigerator drained the battery very quickly when we dry camped and the power converter ran when plugged into 110VAC. None of the breakers or fuses were labeled on the power panel, so we could not easily determine where the refrigerator was getting its power.  We requested a wiring diagram from Pleasant Valley, but they did not provide one. The refrigerator stopped working last spring, and Norcold told us to take it to a local shop that could do a repair under warrantee.  The thermostat appeared to have failed, and was back ordered.  We decided to leave on a short trip the day after the inspection at the local shop.  When we arrived at our camp, the refrigerator was running and the coils under the unit were too hot to touch.  We could not turn it off with the controls.  It was clear that if it could not be turned off it would start a fire.  We switched off all the breakers, but that did not stop the refrigerator.  After pulling a few fuses, we found one that did shut it down.  It certainly would have been easier if we knew the fuses or breakers that were in the circuit.  Even though pulling a 12VDC fuse stopped the refrigerator, we were still worried that there was a 110VAC connection that might make it start up again.After returning home, we contacted Pleasant Valley and were able to talk to a technician about the wiring.  We found out that the 2-way refrigerators were never connected to 110VAC when they are located in the rear hatch-back kitchen of the CS-S model.  We were very disappointed that we were given misinformation by our dealer and that schematics or wiring diagrams for our T@B could not be provided by the factory.When the refrigerator was returned for repair, it was clear that only 12VDC wiring was connected.  The plug for attachment to 110VAC was near the bottom of the refrigerator, so it was easy to drill a hole through the bulkhead and lead the cord out under the side seat.  We have connected this to the power box that supplies the Alde.  Since we usually use the Alde with gas, there is no need to wire in a separate circuit breaker for the refrigerator.  We have left the fuse for 12VDC out of the power box, so the refrigerator is now running only on 110VAC.  When we decide to run the refrigerator on 12VDC, we might wire it to a separate battery so it does not affect our other appliances and lights.  This would be easy to do because the refrigerator is mounted with four screws that are easily removed with a #2 square driver.  The refrigerator slips right out, but you have to be careful to be sure none of the wiring is pinched when putting it back in.  Still, it’s very easy.

RZRBUG

Glad it worked out for you.  My original Norcold was 12VDC only in my T@B Q (not the clamshell).  It was noisey and inefficient, so I replaced it with an Engel two-way.  I drilled a hole in the counter next to a plug to hook it to.  I like it much better.

MikeyVt

We have a 2015 CS-S with a 2-way Norcold . Is there enough wire behind the refrigerator to pull it out without breaking the wires ?

Boulderjay

Wow!  Trying to figure out why our Norcold 2 way in our 2018 CS-S stopped cooling on DC this weekend.   Light was on, running but no cooling whatsoever...going to call Nucamp tomorrow 

Ratkity

Good luck @Boulderjay. Keep us posted.

2Cougs

@Boulderjay- Ours just did the same thing... Ours was the thermostat.  Being fixed as we speak!  Good luck!

Boulderjay

Looks like it was user error... I got home back on level ground and it works just fine. On DC and on shore power.  Thinking the combination of 90° ambient and a pretty good tilt from the back on our boondock site in the woods may have been the culprit.  We will try again this weekend,  fingers crossed!